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H939 Lvw


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#256 Dom

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Posted 12 October 2006 - 07:06 PM

Right, a quick update on my car. On the 9th of October my gearbox broke taking out my sump :w00t:

All the details can be found HERE

It's soon to be fixed by a friend of mine who has a spare replacement 1275 engine and matching gearbox from an mg metro.

I'll sort out some pictures soon.

#257 Dom

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Posted 25 October 2006 - 03:26 PM

Parts Ordered

Maniflow

stage 2 manifold with middle vortex

Mini Spares

engine stabiliser

engine mounts

engine stabiliser rod poly bushes

gearbox engine steady poly bushes

water pump without take off hose for 1275cc including gasket

water temp thermostat 82 degree

mechanical fuel pump for 1275cc including gasket 1988-89 A+ engine

rocker cover gasket

4 thermostat gaskets

copper washer for sump plug

roll pin for gear linkage

sump guard

#258 miniboo

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Posted 25 October 2006 - 04:58 PM

nice list but if you fit a sump guard you generally have to fit an oil cooler as it stops the airflow cooling the gearbox/sump

#259 Jordie

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Posted 25 October 2006 - 05:49 PM

On a road car the general conclusion is that a oil cooler is not needed.

#260 miniboo

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Posted 25 October 2006 - 06:11 PM

But if a sump guard is fitted it restricts airflow to the sump/gearbox and the oil will not cool down enough

#261 Jordie

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Posted 25 October 2006 - 06:12 PM

True, but it is generally seen as OTT.

depends on the sump guard too, u can get ones with holes in em and solid ones.

#262 MPCOOPER

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Posted 25 October 2006 - 08:51 PM

You do not need an oil cooler on a road car


I am changing Doms engine, The engine being fitted is another 1275 from a metro, mileage is only 30802 from new, The parts I fit are for reliability, hence new fuel pump, water pump etc... An oil cooler is not needed on a road car as the oil will not get hot enough to break down. If you are concerned about it then change your oil every 3000 miles instead of 6000 miles. Replace with 10W 40W GTX magnatec Non Synthetic, and I tend to use a conditioner like syrup as it helps stick when cold.
Replace manifold with maniflow stage 2, i have tested manifolds and for stage 1 tuning this one seems to be the best, makes the car run slightly better and smoother.

Everyone has their own opinion of what is best and many will disagree but i have used the exact same setup and it works!!

#263 Jordie

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Posted 25 October 2006 - 08:59 PM

will be good to get Dom motoring again. Hope it all goes smoothly.

#264 MPCOOPER

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Posted 25 October 2006 - 09:09 PM

will be good to get Dom motoring again. Hope it all goes smoothly.


Lets hope so... He must be lost without a car at moment, still its somethin to look forward to!! should go well too.

#265 Jammy

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Posted 25 October 2006 - 10:00 PM

An oil cooler is 'generally' not need, but then neither is a sump guard for a car of standard ride height (or lowered upto 40mm).

#266 Dom

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Posted 25 October 2006 - 10:13 PM

I decided on the sump guard, not mark. I may have hit something on the road causing the hole in the sump. Thought it might be a good idea to get one.

#267 miniboo

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Posted 26 October 2006 - 06:27 AM

right all i am saying is that i have read and heard that if you fit a sump guard then you should fit an oil cooler as it blocks air flow to the sump hence not cooling the oil.

there has been many a thread on here about sump guards and most say that you should fit an oil cooler when fitting a sump guard

#268 Dom

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Posted 26 October 2006 - 07:11 AM

Ok thanks for your input. I've had a search and read through a number of topics. This one being most helpful. I'll delay fitting the sump guard until I have an oil pressure gauge and oil cooler fitted.

#269 Jammy

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Posted 26 October 2006 - 07:59 AM

You need an oil temp guage not oil pressure, as GW, you may be fine, but personally I'd like to know I was ok than assume.

#270 TimS

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Posted 26 October 2006 - 02:12 PM

I had to keep an eye on my oil pressure when on the ring, it got scarily low when the engine was hot. Apart from this iv never had a single problem with oil temps and pressures.




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