12 replies to this topic

[chrisandsarah]

Hello, i am looking to convert my mini city e auto to a manual, are there any guides out there?

Cheers

Chris

[Cei]

Hello, i am looking to convert my mini city e auto to a manual, are there any guides out there?

Cheers

Chris

Hi I'm new to this forum, so I'm not sure where to enter my questions or comments. I would also like to know whats involved to convert from auto to manual. I hope someone replies.

[WiredbyWilson]

you will need the gearstick and mechanism obviously as well as a manual engine and gearbox (you cannot interchange engines from an auto to manual).

some will say you need to change the subframe, but i think mininspares do a conversion kit to fir to the engine mounts as the auto subframe is slightly wider.

other than that it is pretty much a plug and play (as long as it is like for like on the 'box when it comes to the driveshafts).

just a simpl overview

[Dan]

Please use the search function at the top of the page, this subject has been covered many times. In fact I think there may even be an FAQ on it. Welcome to the forum.

[Neilos]

Right, ive had this conversion done to my 1992 Mayfair 1275. Was originally an auto and i aquired a 1275cc metro engine.

- First thing you need to do is get an engine. A metro engine (A+) seem to be pretty good

- Establish the rubbish bits and good bits on both bits (ie the ancillaries) and build the best from both engines (some parts can be interchanged between the autobox, other not). I have my auto head, alternator, exhaust, rocker etc from my auto engine built onto the metro manual.

- You then need the follow bits:
*Complete gear linage
*Pedal box
*Clutch master cylinder
*Clutch slave cylinder
*Clutch pipework
*Starter motor (if different)
*Subframe adaptor engine mounts (minisport)

In answer to your questions, yes use your auto subframe and minisport adaptor engine mounts to put the manual on. Everything else should fit, driveshafts, exhaust (if your auto head is used) from your automatic engine. They are practically identially, just the auto had a torque convertor and a banana auto gearbox.

Just a bit of advice...if your wanting to aquire the bits above i recommend going to a mini show with auto jumble. I aquired all my bits from friends, ebay, google search...etc and a bit of hard work. Plus it cost me more by buying from ebay. You can pick stuff up at mini shows and jumbles really really cheap.

[asahartz]

you will need the gearstick and mechanism obviously as well as a manual engine and gearbox (you cannot interchange engines from an auto to manual).

some will say you need to change the subframe, but i think mininspares do a conversion kit to fir to the engine mounts as the auto subframe is slightly wider.

other than that it is pretty much a plug and play (as long as it is like for like on the 'box when it comes to the driveshafts).

just a simpl overview

You will also need the pedal box! Along with this, you'll want a clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder - if you're lucky this will come with the engine.

All the autos I've had have been early ones with Hardy Spicer joints instead of pot joints; which has meant changing the driveshafts, but later autos have pot joints too so that may not be an issue.

If you're handy with metal you may be able to make up spacer plates to adapt the subframe as I did. I think I have 6mm on one side and 12mm on the other - I know I can still see the red plates at the bottom of Evy's engine, but it's too wet & dark to measure right now! Note that the auto & manual mounts are different - but if you're fitting a manual engine then you'll be buying new manual mounts anyway... won't you?

There is a more detailed discussion of this bit on http://www.ime.org.u.../g/gearbox.html I really ought to have photographed my last swap and posted a detailed description; this one comes up quite often.

[Dan]

They are practically identially, just the auto had a torque convertor and a banana auto gearbox.

...and different internal oilways which is why the engine block is not interchangeable between auto and manual without some detailed engineering.

You don't need to change the pedal box, changing just the pedal shaft and spring and adding a clutch pedal is easier. In fact you don't even have to change the shaft you just replace a spacer on that shaft with a pedal and swap the return spring. You missed the master cylinder baseplate off that list too.

Anyway as I said this has all been covered before but I would just point out that the easiest thing to do is buy a new Mini. Auto Minis are becoming a rare breed and need protecting rather than converting.

Edited by Dan, 01 September 2008 - 07:43 PM.

[maddogmcg]

I didnt find any guides to change auto to manual , its not too difficult for a competent home mechanic .


Mini sport do manufacture a pair of adaptor plates to allow the manual engine to sit in the auto subframe ,i made my own from 10 mm thick aluminium plate ,they fitted between the engine and the engine mounts ,i used standard manual mounts as they are easier to get hold of and much much cheaper than auto mountings ,i did however have to drill another hole in the subframe to suit manual mounts . you can use the mount itself as a template to drill the second hole ,its on the radiator side of the subframe .

As already said you will need a full gearchange assembly ,you will also have to bypass the inhibitor switch that is fitted to the auto gearchange selector ( its to prevent you from starting the engine when its in gear ) you can just solder the wires together and dont forget to insulate them and tie them out of harms way as they are close to the exhaust .

get hold of a clutch pedal of course ,might be easier to get a full pedal box and just swap them over ,also a clutch master cylinder to connect to it ! solid connecting pipe to bulkhead bracket and flexi tube to clutch slave cylinder ,make sure you get the correct one for the clutch type in the new engine verto - non verto .

my car was a 1987 city auto and i fitted a '88 mg metro engine i had to mess about with the heater pipes and thermostat housing to connect everything up ,so depending on your configuration you may have to cali-fudge solutions ,theres plenty of help on this forum . I am still having trouble with speedo readings ,i used the automatic speedo cable and filed the square on the end to fit into the mg 'box ,will probably send the speedo to get calibrated or maybe not !

the engine i fitted had electronic ignition and the auto was points , so some alteration of the wiring was needed to allow for this ( there are posts on here covering this aspect )

and one last thing you will need a gearstick gaiter assembly rubber seal etc unless you want a lot of wind and fumes in the car with you .

good luck

ps its worth it , the rat now goes like stink !!!!

Good Luck

[Dan]

you can just solder the wires together and dont forget to insulate them and tie them out of harms way as they are close to the exhaust

On 90% of auto Minis the inhibitor switch section of the loom is simply plugged into the rest of the harness somewhere around the heater casing / pedal box. It can be unplugged and the starter cables connected directly back into each other, leaving the harness exactly the same as it would have been in a contemporary manual Mini.

Honestly people, replacing the pedal box is one of the most fiddly straight nut and bolt jobs there is on a Mini. Without having the production line jig that holds the pedals at the right angle for it to slot straight in place the return spring makes it a nighmare, even on a stripped and bare shell. Replacing the pedal alone is far easier and all you really have to do is move the heater casing a bit, which you'll do anyway because you'll usually be re-plumbing it when switching to manual. Last time I changed a clutch pedal (fixing a badly done RHD to LHD conversion where the box had been moved across but the wrong pedal was still fitted, not swapping auto to manual) it took about 20 minutes and I used a brand new pedal that cost about £20.00.

[asahartz]

I did actually change just the pedal, but I took the box out to do it. Had I not been doing the brake master cylinder seals at the same time I might have thought twice about that bit. Yes it was fiddly, but I don't recall it being too bad - I always think getting the clevis pins back into the pedals is the worst bit!

[paulyt]

i am also doing same thing, loads of advice on here, some good, some bad.. but generally everyone seems quite clued up..

Anyhow, just to jump on this ......

all you who have done this before.

1stly, i love the idea of just adding the pedal, i never thought of that , alltough i have another pedalbox anyway i can see how its easier. and

2ndly, im lucky enough to have a complete donor car, how easy is it to get engine out from underneath as i was wanting to change subframes and engine complete. i dont have a hoist and was wondering how hard is it getting engine/subframe out from underneath?

[maddogmcg]

not too difficult to remove the s/frame etc from underneath ,if you have a couple of strong helpers .
you will need to disconnect stuff like exhaust ,battery cable , brake lines, gear change assy ,shockers and all the stuff connecting the engine ,cables heater pipes ,tie bars etc etc

the two big bolts to the subframe tower tops ,the peardrop mounts at the front of the s/frame and the mountings to the floor .

leave the car on the ground with the wheels on of course and get your strong helpers and just lift the front of the car up and over the engine subframe assy ,the front end of a mini is not that heavy at all as you are pivoting on the rear wheels ,its just safer to have a couple of helpers there in case ,as you lift check underneath that you have disconnected every thing .

I have found that it is helpful to support the engine assy with some stout wooden blocks as you lift the car as this will prevent the whole assembly from tipping over as it clears the body .

[paulyt]

not too difficult to remove the s/frame etc from underneath ,if you have a couple of strong helpers .
you will need to disconnect stuff like exhaust ,battery cable , brake lines, gear change assy ,shockers and all the stuff connecting the engine ,cables heater pipes ,tie bars etc etc

the two big bolts to the subframe tower tops ,the peardrop mounts at the front of the s/frame and the mountings to the floor .

leave the car on the ground with the wheels on of course and get your strong helpers and just lift the front of the car up and over the engine subframe assy ,the front end of a mini is not that heavy at all as you are pivoting on the rear wheels ,its just safer to have a couple of helpers there in case ,as you lift check underneath that you have disconnected every thing .

I have found that it is helpful to support the engine assy with some stout wooden blocks as you lift the car as this will prevent the whole assembly from tipping over as it clears the body .

looks like i have to start cashing in favours and saving for the beers then???