403 replies to this topic

[Nick Warwick]

How do you do longer shots without getting it overexposed? Every time i try it ends up being dead white due to too much light.

how light was it when u are taking the photos? seems like you are setting it to long the exposure


cheers nurse

[Jackman]

Its daylight outside, wanting to do the rivers where its got a bit of movement sort of thing.

Ive tried short settings and a bit longer, they either are "still" or over exposed.

[Nick Warwick]

what camera is it your using mate?

[Jackman]

Canon 450D, im new to having these cameras so im still learning as such. Ive most prob got a setting wrong somewhere.

[Nick Warwick]

right so its a good new camera, for long exposure shots you want to be using Tv mode and set the shutter speed to 0"4 then onwards to about 1"3 if in the day you can set it for longer if you are in a forest like i was so there wasnt much light.

also what ISO are you using?

[Jackman]

ISO i was leaving on auto, was playing with things one thing at a time and ive not read up on ISO so i dont know what it does.

[Nick Warwick]

ok right just next time you take photos of the river try the shutter speeds i said and see if they work, if the photo is still over exposed push the shutter back up but once you go past 0"4 in daylight you wont see much water movment.

it takes a while to learn all this but once you get it you will be fine.

ISO is easy really, i think your camera will go from 100 - 1600 at a guess, 100 is the best to use if you want photos that have almost no noise on the photo and you can use this on sunny days because you dont need to take in as much light as possible like at night and as you go up through the numbers 200,400,600,800,1600 the higher the number the more noise you will have on the photo but if you are in low light you will be wanting to use a high ISO such as 800 or 1600 these are the best and keep the camera fast in low light, hope that kinda helps mate

[Jackman]

Thanks, that does make sence... ill give it a go next time.

Does this method also work when doing shots of racing when the car is still and background blured? (I know you need to follow the car to do this)

[danboy]

Some of mine:

thats my mates motor

[Nick Warwick]

Thanks, that does make sence... ill give it a go next time.

Does this method also work when doing shots of racing when the car is still and background blured? (I know you need to follow the car to do this)

for racing cars you will need a fast shutter but if your unsure about what shutter your best staying in auto till you get used to it, the ISO is the same and if its dark put it up and if its light use 100,200,400 just do test shots, i always do this

[Jackman]

Yeah i can do cars and got quite good at that but the backgrounds are static. I have tried to get the car static but background blured. Is this done when taking or is it edited after the picture is taken?

[Nick Warwick]

right you can do this in editing but you can do it by tracking the car as u said so u will prob need a tripod so i can swing the camera without going up and down with hand motion

here is a little mess about sample of my mates on the M1 just shows you when your going the sam speed tracking them the background is out of focus and (blurrs)

Attached Files

•  marknbooty.jpg   74.44K   19 downloads

[Jackman]

Thats exactly what i mean.

Thanks alot

[Nick Warwick]

no problem mate

[Bean]

Chris ...

If you want to do long exposure shots in the daytime, you can buy 'ND filters'. These are neutral density filters. Basically they act like sunglasses... you can have a long shutter and a wide aperature - and STILL be able to shoot long exposure in the daytime. You can get different strengths of filter... 2x being the lightest. It just puts a grey filter over the top so that it partially blocks some of the light.

There is a formula for working out which filter would be best - By judging what F number you want, which shutter speed you want and what the lighting conditions are - But I can't for the life of me remember...