OK, ive got sparks everywhere when I'm turning over.
I disconnected all the plugs and just used the one and put it in each coil pack one at a time and turned the key and I had a spark from everyone.
So I've got sparks.
Hmmn!!!!
Firing Order With Megajolt
Started by
Sammy D
, Aug 13 2008 03:27 PM
38 replies to this topic
#17
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Posted 13 August 2008 - 07:35 PM
If all leads have sparks edis and coil pack are working. Now check the crank sensor is wired the right way around and that the trigger is 90 degrees before the gap in the trigger wheel when the engine is at tdc ie the gap is facing straight up with engine at tdc
#18
Sammy D
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Posted 13 August 2008 - 07:41 PM
ok, trigger is deff 90 def before tdc because i put it on with the engine out. gap isnt straight up as where iv mounted the sensor, but either way the sensor is 90 deg before tdc.
would having the wires round the wrong way just cause it to not run at all though?
il go and pull it apart and swap the wires to the VR around now and see what happens...
would having the wires round the wrong way just cause it to not run at all though?
il go and pull it apart and swap the wires to the VR around now and see what happens...
#19
Ethel
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Posted 13 August 2008 - 07:53 PM
It might not be an ignition fault. Try it so you can see all 4 plugs at once and confirm which fire or miss. I think I remember a similar thread, could be plug leads or plugs.
#20
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Posted 13 August 2008 - 07:59 PM
As ethel says, check all plugs are working
#21
GraemeC
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Posted 13 August 2008 - 08:00 PM
ok, trigger is deff 90 def before tdc because i put it on with the engine out. gap isnt straight up as where iv mounted the sensor, but either way the sensor is 90 deg before tdc.
Just to clarify what you have said here:
The sensor must be 90 degrees before the missing tooth when the engine is at TDC.
So the gap doesn't have to be straight up, but the sensor must be 90 degrees before the gap.
#22
Sammy D
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One Carb Or Two?
Posted 13 August 2008 - 08:01 PM
Plugs and leads are both brand new.
Right just swapped the wires round and now, I can't start it now at all. The solenoid is clicking and the starter motor wont turn.
There is no link between these two independant systems and now I am royaly annoyed.
All I want is for someone to come to my house, me to give you get keys and tools and say HELP!
I've had a mechanic out earlier and he was just confused by the whole thing which is understandable.
Arrrrg. So no I think I've burnt out a SECOND starter motor.
I might rip it all out and run a dizzy if this gets worse.
Right just swapped the wires round and now, I can't start it now at all. The solenoid is clicking and the starter motor wont turn.
There is no link between these two independant systems and now I am royaly annoyed.
All I want is for someone to come to my house, me to give you get keys and tools and say HELP!
I've had a mechanic out earlier and he was just confused by the whole thing which is understandable.
Arrrrg. So no I think I've burnt out a SECOND starter motor.
I might rip it all out and run a dizzy if this gets worse.
#23
Sammy D
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One Carb Or Two?
Posted 13 August 2008 - 08:02 PM
Yep.ok, trigger is deff 90 def before tdc because i put it on with the engine out. gap isnt straight up as where iv mounted the sensor, but either way the sensor is 90 deg before tdc.
Just to clarify what you have said here:
The sensor must be 90 degrees before the missing tooth when the engine is at TDC.
So the gap doesn't have to be straight up, but the sensor must be 90 degrees before the gap.
#24
Sammy D
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Posted 13 August 2008 - 08:10 PM
Also, I'd like to confirm on this firing order stuff.
Because all I got when it was 1=1, 2=2, 3=3, 4=4 was lots of puff out of the carb.
Because all I got when it was 1=1, 2=2, 3=3, 4=4 was lots of puff out of the carb.
#25
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Posted 13 August 2008 - 08:11 PM
Check you didn't knock a wire loose on the starter, the vr has no effect on that circuit
Has this engine been run at all with a dizzy or is it a new build?
If all else checks out try moving the crank sensor 15-20 degree either way using a temporary mount as it sounds like the sensor is out of phase with the engine tdc
Has this engine been run at all with a dizzy or is it a new build?
If all else checks out try moving the crank sensor 15-20 degree either way using a temporary mount as it sounds like the sensor is out of phase with the engine tdc
Edited by ratty, 13 August 2008 - 08:13 PM.
#26
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Posted 13 August 2008 - 08:14 PM
When i checked this one over to get it running the sensor was 90 degrees out
#27
miniboo
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Posted 13 August 2008 - 08:21 PM
connect the leads in the engine bay 1-1 2-2 3-3 4-4.
It is in megajolt that you then set the firing order to 1342.
Have you managed to get the car ruunning with or without the MJ connected?
The VR sensor wires are the correct way round or yo would have no sparks at all.
When th engine is at TDC the gap needs to be there as well. the sensor then needs to be 90 deg before the gap.
http://www.autosport...tallation_guide
It is in megajolt that you then set the firing order to 1342.
Have you managed to get the car ruunning with or without the MJ connected?
The VR sensor wires are the correct way round or yo would have no sparks at all.
When th engine is at TDC the gap needs to be there as well. the sensor then needs to be 90 deg before the gap.
http://www.autosport...tallation_guide
#28
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Posted 13 August 2008 - 08:25 PM
Please check coil A is connected to the coilpack correctly as below
4 cylinder (EDIS4):
* On a four cylinder engine, with a firing order of 1342, that means the coil should be connected so that 1&4 are on coil A (left side when connector is at bottom), and 2&3 are connected to coil B (right side)
http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm
It should run without the megajolt connected, but just with a set ignition advance
4 cylinder (EDIS4):
* On a four cylinder engine, with a firing order of 1342, that means the coil should be connected so that 1&4 are on coil A (left side when connector is at bottom), and 2&3 are connected to coil B (right side)
http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm
It should run without the megajolt connected, but just with a set ignition advance
Edited by ratty, 13 August 2008 - 08:27 PM.
#29
Sammy D
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Posted 13 August 2008 - 08:28 PM
It's a total new build, and funily enough it's also supercharged.
Playing around with the sensor could be a bit of a mission, but to confirm...
I had the engine with cylinders 1 & 4 at TDC, and then I have the sensor bolted to the alternator tensioning bracket bolt, and then the sensor pointing straight to the middle of the bottom pulley and then the missing tooth 90 deg before the sensor, like zis...
Is that right?
I've just had a horrible feeling. that missing tooth 180deg out!!!!!
Playing around with the sensor could be a bit of a mission, but to confirm...
I had the engine with cylinders 1 & 4 at TDC, and then I have the sensor bolted to the alternator tensioning bracket bolt, and then the sensor pointing straight to the middle of the bottom pulley and then the missing tooth 90 deg before the sensor, like zis...
Is that right?
I've just had a horrible feeling. that missing tooth 180deg out!!!!!
#30
miniboo
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Posted 13 August 2008 - 08:37 PM
No that is about right. its not 180 out.
Check that you have 12v whilst cranking and also when the key is back in the run position.
Check that you have 12v whilst cranking and also when the key is back in the run position.
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