403 replies to this topic

[Asphalt]

In 4 years I can, if my car get's a historic plate - by then it'll be 30 years old. I just hope it qualifies for a historic plate then.

The Momos. Oh well... I think I keep them save & dry in my room to look at them. They'r too good to be wasted on a daily driver Actually; I'm on the hunt for another set of 5.75" Momos

Cheers,
Jan

[Asphalt]

Fitted my new switchpanel yesterday. It's a MkII one with crackle paint & the old lights cluster in it. I could switch the headlights on and off all day long with those switches



Yes, I know the lights cluster isn't straight...

Cheers,
Jan

[Asphalt]

Hahaha, found my Mini on the IMM aerial photos



On of over 2000

[mighty mini jack]

Switch panel looks interesting Jan!

Nice work as usual, what's next to come?

[Asphalt]

'Interesting' - I see...

What' next... Good question. Maybe I finaly change the slipping clutch. I really should do. It's just 3 weeks left for RingOneZero and the Nürburgring o0 A slipping clutch can't be good on the Nordschleife...

[mighty mini jack]

Meant in a good way, of course.

& good plan, how's the caravan coming along?

[Asphalt]

Done something I should have done long ago... When I build the engine I accidentaly fitted the rockers of a early smal bore engine. This lead to this:



Obviously not pretty. Inlets are OK, but the exhaust rockers are sitting realy bad on the valve stem...

Which is no wonder when you compare them to the 1275 folded rockers:

Top: smal bore rockers
Bottom: big bore rockers.



The difference is a much wider pad on the tip, which can make up for the big bore's larger valve spacing! On a big bore head the exhaust valves are a bit further away from the inlet valves. With the big bore rocker' wider pad, it looks much better:



Since the rocker shaft was still OK, I was able to fit the new rockers without touching the head nuts and removing the rocker posts. So no risk of ruining the head gasket.



Though if you want to change the rocker shaft - you need to either remove the engine mount & steadys and lower & tilt the engine a bit so the shaft can slide into one of the cutouts behind the rad (about 10mm in each direction).

[mini_mad69]

Great work as always.

One question, how did you remove the rocker shaft.

I tried this and even when loosening off the tappet adjusters all the way the valve springs where still being compressed and so I couldn't remove the rocker shaft. Could it have been because of the kent 286 cam that was fitted.


Anyway, great work, any news on the accident damage?

[Asphalt]

Good question... I tried to find a spot where there was the least lift on all valves, turned the adjusters as far in as possible and then the shaft did move with a little persuation (read this as wooden drift & a smal hammer). Might be not possible with bigger overlap cams, yes, that I don't know. I only have a MG Metro cam in there

Though I'm sure you could make a tool to compress two or three valve springs for the process.

I'm sending the accident report to my opponent's insurance - and hope they pay me out (I think they will/need too since it's totaly not my fault).

[Asphalt]

Ah feck it. That's what I thought this afternoon. Since I had to order a masive amount of gearbox parts anyway, I took the chance and ordered a new clutch seal & turbo plate. So engine's been remove today - once again. I found it easyer to remove the engine to change the clutch, due to the stupid way I installed the brake booster... And the rad was still out anyway from yesterday's work.

Oh what a pleasantly familiar picture



Though the clutch had less oil in it than I was hoping for



Probably invisible in the picture, but there was only a veeery slight film of oil on the pressure plate. I guess that was just too much for a strong 1275. Anyway, I hope the parts arrive tomorrow nad I can crack on. And hopefully I'm able to borrow the clutch seal tool tomorrow too. I'm not doing it again without a proper protection sleeve.

Cheers,
Jan

[Asphalt]

Not my day.... It was bl**dy hot, I slept bad and then this happend just as I had everything together. Though I give the bolts a final check; and oh *SNAP!*.



I mean - it's only the screws holding the flywheel on, they don't need to be good or high tensile or something like that... At least the extracting tool didn't break and I got the remains of the bolt out. But it's still hot - so I leave it for today... Should've never started, I knew it was going to end in (near-)disaster... And I was in no good mood anyway. Well, tomorrow is another day...

Well, at least my improvised clutch oil seal tool did work almost as expected. I'll see if this seal finaly hold all the oil back...



Next evo of that will see some sort of teflon extension on the front to treat the oil seal with a bit more care Can you guess what it is made of?

Cheers,
Jan

[stardude]

Next evo of that will see some sort of teflon extension on the front to treat the oil seal with a bit more care Can you guess what it is made of?

Cheers,
Jan

and old hub? a lock tab and some wood

[stardude]

i actually really like that! might do one myself! probably cheaper than buying one of the tools for the job!

[Asphalt]

Yes - easy one I think the tool you can buy is till better, as it has a larger surface, a correct protection sleeve (I used tape) to protect the seal from the splines and is guaranteed to be straight But as a quick & dirty improvised tool for the times you can't borrow the proper tool - it is great, I guess.

[Asphalt]

BACK ON THE ROAD!! Woohooo! And FINALY the clutch doesn't slip anymore!! And that's SO nice. No more overtaking without knowing wheter you can accelerate or not

Everything works fine now, I'm realy chuffed. Full throttle from 1st to 4th - and no sign of slippage.

The only downer ist the noise... I somehow managed to get the RC40 to seal properly... It's anoyingly quiet now

Cheers,
Jan

Edited by Asphalt, 26 July 2010 - 04:32 PM.