403 replies to this topic

[Asphalt]

where did you get you excellent bracket????

Connections

[GreaseMonkey]

where did you get you excellent bracket????

Connections

And I just happen to know them connections

[Asphalt]

And I just happen to know them connections

You sure?


by the way: here are some pics of a Mini-meet last week:
http://picasaweb.goo...1275er/Neumarkt

Edited by Asphalt, 18 July 2009 - 08:52 PM.

[Asphalt]

So, started to sort out the interior. The lower dash padding fell off as I touched it after I removed the switch panel... Ok, spray glue lasted about 5 years - that's more than I expected to be honest. So this time I tryed some heavyer stuff... Taped to hold it in place whilst the glue is (hopefully) hardening.



The lowering braket went on very easy - but I guess it's just pure luck that the guy working in Longbridge was too lazy to tighthen the breakaway screws 23 years ago... So they were intact and not sheared... Easy going! *Pheew!*



And by accident I doscovered that electrolysis is also pretty good for paint stripping! Left it in for about 4 hours - and got a fully striped not mechanicly damaged blank surface.





And the heater is almost finished. Just waiting till tomorrow to buy some spray paint to paint the flap shift mechanism. And a tin crackle paint to paint the switch panel.

The heater is the old plastic type and probably spent over 30 years in the sun - so it's fairly bleached during the years (you didn't see it before I put it in the dish washer ). But a bit polishing made a huge difference. Some cockpit spray and it should be looking aged but not old. Perfect! Left side polished, right side as it was before:




Ok, the foam wrapping looks bodged and unprofessionel - but VERY original

Cheers,
Jan

Edited by Asphalt, 19 July 2009 - 04:16 PM.

[Rosslin Racing]

What do U mean?

You never stop discovering new stuff:

I have several clutch covers here. The following two are both A+ clutch covers, both have the same number: DAM5202. But one has a rubber plug in the starter's dome and removable cover for flywheel based ignition timing... It's from a very early 998 A+ engine. Those were partialy A- and A+ engines, had a verto clutch but with pre-verto ring gear and starter. And, as I discovered (hoho!) a mixed clutch cover.



The next thing is the water pump removed from the engine... I've never seen anything like this before... It has a plastic impeller! All others I've seen had cast impellers. Seemed to work fine; but I've heared some storys from VW owners with mysterious overheating problems which couldn't be solved... 'Till they fond out that theplastic mpellor of the pump separated itself from the shaft and didn't spin over a certain RPM range.

The new pump is something special as well: it can be used with or without a bypass. It's supplied with a brass spout and a grubscrew.

But the best part of it is the machined gasket face! I think that's far supperior to the rounded gasket faces you usualy get with new pumps (at least I've never got others).



Another very usefull replacement part for SPI engines is this:



The SPI's oil pipe is just stuck into the block and sealed with a sealing ring & sleeve nut. I never got it to seal properly, regardless of what I'm doing. This braided hose should help getting it to seal like the old banjo bolts (pre-SPI) did. Wasn't cheap, but I thinks it will be worth the money.

The 'hotest' standard cam: MG Metro. If you compare data, you see that it is very close to the Kent MD266!


RED: MG Metro, RSP Coopers, Metro GTA
BLUE: Kent MD266

Checking height @ lobe: 0.017" | 0.016"
Timing (IN/EX): 16/56 59/29 | 24/56 61/29
Nominal lobe lift (IN/EX): 0.263" / 0.263" | 0.263" / 0.268"
Duration (IN/EX): 252 / 268° | 260 / 270°
Lobe centre angle (IN/EX): 110 / 105 | 106 / 106
Lobe separation angle: 107.5 | 106.0
Lift on overlap: 0.054" | 0.054"



But if you campare prices for a new brandnew cam... The MD266 cam is much cheaper! But from what I've read here, the MD266 is generaly accepted as a good allround daily runner cam which gives decent torque. I got the MG cam in exchange for the old - so it's quasi for free

And adjusted the idler gear today. The old one was still pretty good, but I decided to get a other gear with lower mileage. So good to have a couple of shims, again on a exchange-base. I got a few, take those I need and send them back, together with my old ones. New shims are fu... freakin expensive




Adjusted to 0.15mm, I think that's not too tight and not too much.

The final gear's crown wheel is in a local garage to pull the bearing, as my puller didn't grip and I couldn't get the thing to move, not with my puller, not with a crow bar.

Oh, and I forgott to order cam followers... The old ones were pitted badly and I'm fitting a new cam so needed them anyways... Hope they arrive on tuesday, no local garage had any in stock So the only thing I could do to the engine was fitting new big end bearings.



Cheers,
Jan

Cam followers have them in stock Bern is not far

[Asphalt]

Cam followers have them in stock Bern is not far

Hi Rosslin! Thanks - but it's actually quite a time ago... The engine is runing allready (got some good NOS followers )

[Asphalt]

Switch panel finished. Took 48 hours for the crackle paint to dry... It's still a little soft so needed to handle it with care. And it got a bit rougher than I thought... Maybe it was too cold? Not easy to paint parts with that stuff...




And installed. I quite like the look of it. First impression of the bar wrikeld switch panel without frame & switches was a bit dissapointing - but this actually looks rather good now:



What do you think?

Cheers,
Jan

PS: Working sluggish as ever

[analogue_radio]

Didn't like that as I was scrolling down, but with the bits and bobs back in it looks quality, really like that.

Spraying anything else with the wrinkle paint?

[Asphalt]

Didn't like that as I was scrolling down, but with the bits and bobs back in it looks quality, really like that.

Spraying anything else with the wrinkle paint?

Yeah, makes quite a transformation from *Uuuuh...* to *OooH!*, doesn't it?

Maybe I'm 'crackling' the rocker cover (and polish the fins).
But I think I'm too lazy to take it off We'll see...

Thanks!

Jan

[Down&Out]

This is one of the projects i love. There's just something about it that makes it easy and enjoyable to read. The grammar is better than many of our own country's grammar and you come from Germany i beleive? All the pictures are a nice quality and a nice size, and everything is professionally and clearly explained. If people laid their project threads out like you did, their would be more worth reading.

Keep up the good work,

Jono .

[Asphalt]

This is one of the projects i love. There's just something about it that makes it easy and enjoyable to read. The grammar is better than many of our own country's grammar and you come from Germany i beleive? All the pictures are a nice quality and a nice size, and everything is professionally and clearly explained. If people laid their project threads out like you did, their would be more worth reading.

Keep up the good work,

Jono .

Wow thank you muchly...! And yes, I'm from germany, from the Black Forrest region (south-west, about 200 miles south from the 'Ring (I think that's the most known place ).

Today I mainly thought. About the fuel gauge. The Jaeger fuel gauge I have installed now doesn't match the 'Smiths' guages excately (typical german pedant? Yes, maybe ). The chrome ring is flatter and of lighter 'colour'. I have a Smiths fuel gauge out of a Jaguar. But this had a matt black bezel and a gray face. So would not match at all...



Jaeger gauge: http://img32.imagesh...1051/crack3.jpg

So I decided to add the matt black bezel to the vacuum gauge I had kicking around (which had a matching chrome bezel) and paint the face matt black. As I had no idea how to recreate the lettering on the fuel gauge - I took a very fine brush and covered the white letters with grease and then painted if veeery carefully and with much distance, allowing only a very fine spray of paint to settle (it's sealed and under glas - doesn't need to be a thick coat). Rattle can paint.

Removed the grease with a q-tipp - and hey presto - got a matching fuel gauge If you look very close you can see that between the letters there's still gray paint visible. But if you don't know, you won't see it.



In the first place I wanted to put the guts of the original Mini fuel gauge (centre speedo type) into the Jaguar gauge. But discovered that they are 100% identical and the Mini gauge's needle was too short and fully covered by the facing of the Jag gauge

Cheers,
Jan

[Asphalt]

Ohhhhhhhh - F*CK! We have flip-flop effect oil....

[Asphalt]

But it's not from him:



It's from the green japaneese monster in the carport (Oh! Godd idea! I call her 'Godzilla' from now on ):



I have to change the gearbox on it too - it's been badly whining for quite a time... I guess something desintegrated inside (reason for flip flop effect oil ). Got a cheap 2nd hand box from the scrap yard. It's actually quite simple to change - if I only had a lifting platform. With axle stands it's not that comfy (can only be removed downwards).

Mini has to wait a little more - I need to go to Berlin, helping my sister & picking up a mate. And then we head straight to southern France, 3000km one way That's why Godzilla needs a new gearbox & brakes.

Edited by Asphalt, 01 August 2009 - 02:56 PM.

[Asphalt]

Mikra fixed (what an awfull job!) und Mini finished. Engine still needs a good tune (needle profiling), will do that after vacancies.




Cheers,
Jan

[sweetser]

Looking veryy nice mate, that lowering bracket is veryy nice, looks much neater then the tacky little thing i got