403 replies to this topic

[Asphalt]

Haha - Thanks!

We'll see what happens with the 'box tomorrow... Head is returning from the engine shop too, then there's no excuse left not starting to put the beast together

Cheers,
Jan

[AndrewJ530]

No bother.

Haha so what's the final spec going to be then? You got any last minute tricks up your sleeve you haven't revealed yet ?

[Asphalt]

No bother.

Haha so what's the final spec going to be then? You got any last minute tricks up your sleeve you haven't revealed yet ?

Nothing special... MG Metro Mk1-ish engine.

- 1275cc
- Inno 11 Stud head, ports smoothened, skimmed 0.0236" to get a 10:1-ish compression ratio
- MG Metro Mk1/Metro GTa camshaft 252 / 268°
- HIF44 with plain throttle (without valve, smoothed screws)
- MG Metro manifold, smoothed and slightly ported
- MG Metro/Cooper RSP airbox, slightly modified (no hot air flap, removed flat controlle inside)
- Smoothened elbow piece (that thing between carb & airbox)
- K&N filter inside
- 3,21:1 final gear
- Cooper RSP elec. dizzy
- Maniflow medium bore LCB
- RC40 - still undecided if I go for single or twin-box...

So apart from the K&N it's just a mix of the 'best' standard parts - with some minor improvements.

I'm happy with anything over 60BHP - but it must be a 'smooth', good runing engine to make me happy. I don't want a low-end-super-torque-diesel-ish engine, neither do I want a 'screamer' rev-monster...


But - and that's still top secret - I'm having a little play with the SU carb.
Watch this space - it's going to be something VERY unusual (hope it works with my engine)

And then I'm going to put on the Reece Fish carb at some point.

Edited by Asphalt, 27 May 2009 - 09:28 PM.

[Retro_10s]

I'm currently sorting out a worked HS4 for my project using the diagrams from David Vizards book - stuff like halving the throttle spindle - and as you intend to do - smoothing the screw heads etc , i'm also adding a chamfere to the piston edges that protrude into the throat of the carb to aid flow...

I take it when you say removing the valve you mean the small valve on the throttle disc? - are you going to solder it up?

[Asphalt]

I'm currently sorting out a worked HS4 for my project using the diagrams from David Vizards book - stuff like halving the throttle spindle and as you intend to do - smoothing the scres etc.

I take it when you say removing the alve you mean the small valve on the throttle disc? - are you going to solder it up?

Yes, that beast with the big spring on it... It's actually not realy smal, thought

I'm not going to solder it up - I'm to afraid of it coming loose... My soldering skills are 'basic', to say the least... I got a NOS plain throttle disc without valve I'm going to fit. The good part on my HIF is, that it is realy bautifull machined, it's 100% spotless - that's why I decided to not alter it any further than replacing the throttle disc All the HS4 I had in my hands are realy rough and badly cast (brand new HS4s are again VERY well cast - had on in my hands last saturday) - it's realy worth improving them!



This shot also gives an excellent view of how BAD my manifold realy was And as you can see it is quite a big restriction to airflow on full throttle...

Cheers,
Jan

Edited by Asphalt, 27 May 2009 - 09:37 PM.

[Retro_10s]

yes it show up a lot there doesn't it! I'll be doing similar things to the exit on my inlet manifold too - it's not as bad as your was but still needs a little relieving around the bottom to free up some flow potential.

[mini_mad69]

Fantastic car, and I love your attention to detail. Superb.


Ben

[Asphalt]

Fantastic car, and I love your attention to detail. Superb.

Ben

Oi, thanks!

For the record: gearbox now spins freely. One more shim, pushing the mainbearing back a bit and 'grinding' in the baulk rings (with loads of oil) did the trick. Plus I torqued the nuts a little further. Now it spins free. Not as free as with old, worn baulks, but free enough for my likings.

Going to collect the cylinder head from the engine shop in a few hours - then adjusting the diff - looks like things are coming to an end now

Cheers,
Jan

[Asphalt]

All parts together...

[Asphalt]

So, just finished the gearbox & diff assembly.

Adjusting the diff was easier than I thought... enter diff into gearbox casing, as far to the right as possible. Put on diff cover, tighten finger tight. Not put on the right hand side cover, with gasket and torqued up - this pushes the diff to the left.

The diff bearings need 1/10th of a millimeter pre-load. Put on left hand side cover, without gasket. Tighten bolts just to the very first biting point, measure the gap. In my case it was 0.15mm. Plus the thickness of the gasket (0.5mm) - makes 0.20mm. I need -0.10mm - so needed shims with a total of 0.30mm thickness. fitted them (got quite a couple of them so had free choice ), torqued up side cover & diff cover.



Then installed the speedo drive housing. Put in the pot joints. All with a good smear of gasket goo to seal it. So - all that's left is the speedo drive gear... I hope it's allready on the way to me. It was a bit of a long shot, as I needed a rare 16 tooth spindle (10" wheels + 3.21:1 FD + 800tpm speedo = 6/16 speed gear ratio) which I finaly got offered this week



So all that's left now is: reassembling the head. Paint will not dry untill tomorrow morning, so I have to wait. And then: it's assembly time!

I'm still undicided, if I should go for a single box RC40, or twin-box system. I think I'm going to install just which ever suits my mood Takes only 10 minutes to change...



Cheers,
Jan

[Retro_10s]

Twin box all the way dude!

[Asphalt]

Twin box all the way dude!

Yeah, I think it's going to be the twin box again

No pictures - I lost my cam (or better the memory stick)

Lifted engine and gearbox out of the cellar - my back still hurts! Then put garbox on the engine (with the engine resting on the head side, crank pointing upwarts), installed clutch cover and clutch, finished the head (installed valves & springs & stem seals) and got confused as I only roughly sortet all the various screws and bolts and nuts as I dismantled the lot

[Asphalt]

Assembling engine:



Blocking flywheel with an RC40 exhaust clamp, works excellent!



Not too happy with the flex oil pipe... But then it is designed for injection engines which don't have a vacuum unit on the distributor. It got better after I replaced the connector with one from a Merc W124's central locking system Merc parts for my Mini FTW!

Then Iwanted to install the cylinder head - only to find out I had forgotten to buy the correct sealant for the head's bypass plug so i have to wait 'till monday or risk a major leak... The engine could be runing by now... But NO - Jan has Alzheimer's disease and forgetts to buy important stuff

And that's how I have to work:



Not the best but does the job.

cheers,
Jan

[AndrewJ530]

It'll come together soon enough. Pointless making a huge mess instead of waiting till moday to get some sealant lol.

Looks like good weather so it can't be that bad lol.

[analogue_radio]

Lovely first photo & lovely work! can I see an evil face drawn on the rear window?