15 replies to this topic

[matt_m_99]

I am going to look at a 1981 Austin Mini City that the fuel gauge is no longer working on. The seller says it has only stopped working in the last few weeks. What is likely to be the problem and would it be an easy fix?

Cheers

[analogue_radio]

Take the float out and check everything is moving freely, I had a gasket on mine slip free which obscured the lever from moving, this didn't cure the problem though and I ended up replacing the float. Which is a cheap and easy job to do.

First of all, have you checked the wires are all connected on the fuel gauge itself in the boot? take them off and clean the contacts, could be a loose connection.

[svrdaniels]

I had the same problem with mine recently. Check that you have power to the gauge itself. If not, could be down to the voltage regulator as it was in my case.

[analogue_radio]

Quick read through this thread should solve your problem.

http://www.theminifo...showtopic=32999

[dklawson]

To paraphrase the information in the link above....

Take a length of wire and strip both ends back a bit. Turn on the car's ignition and use this jumper wire between the green/black wire on the sending unit and the (-) terminal of the battery. Watch the gauge. If it goes to full, your gauge has power and is working.

If the jumper wire fails to make the gauge go to full, the fuel gauge, power to the fuel gauge, or the green/black wire are at fault. You did not mention if the temperature gauge is working or not. If neither the fuel NOR the temperature gauge are working, neither is getting power from the voltage stabilizer. If this is true, let us know and we'll walk you through this issue.

If the fuel gauge appears to be working with the jumper, move the jumper wire to the BLACK wire on the sending unit and use a bent wire (coat hanger or similar) through the tank's filler neck to lift and lower the float arm. Watch the gauge as you do this. If the gauge works now, run a new black wire to a good earthing point in the boot. If the sending unit still does not work, consider replacing the sending unit.

[BigDave99]

Hello

I have a similar fault, i recently changed my spi engine to a carb engine, i am running the ignition side of things from the ecu and the fuelling side to the carb! works lovely apart from the fact that the fuel gauge and temperature gauge have stopped working! You mentioned something about a voltage stabiliser if both fail.

Dave

[matt_m_99]

THanks for the help. I havent actually bought the car yet but am going to look at it but she said in her advert it has just stopped working. Looks like it should be a relatively cheap fix

[dklawson]

There have been several posts about voltage stabilizers and alternates for them. If you buy the car, be sure to search for those old threads. If it turns out to be the sending unit, these are a bit more expensive but buying a used one from a junk yard is not an unreasonable option.

Dave, you asked about your gauge problem after an engine conversion. Sorry... your car is too new for me to make any knowledgeable comments. However, since both your fuel and temperature gauges are not working, this points to a supply problem. You voltage stabilizer may have failed or you may have disturbed/damaged/broken the switched 12V supply to the stabilizer. Others with knowledge of the later cars will have to advise you concerning where to check these things.

[MiniRach11]

Hi,

 

I also have a simular problem, my temperature gauge dosent work at all (as far as im aware)

 

But my fuel gauge works but when i fill the tank it says i have half a tank?

[dklawson]

The two gauge problems may or may not be related.

 

On carbureted Minis the temperature sending unit is on the cylinder head just above/behind the alternator.  Locate the sending unit and unplug its wire.  Turn the ignition key to the run position so that the ignition warning light is on.  Have an assistant hold the metal terminal on the disconnected temperature sender wire to a bare metal place on the engine.  I suggest a bare metal spot on the alternator.  Watch the temperature gauge and see if it goes to "HOT".  If it does, the sending unit is bad.  If the gauge remains "cold" then the problem could be the gauge or the sending unit wire is cut/broken.  If the gauge only rises to "1/2" or "normal" (like you mentioned for the fuel gauge above) it is likely to be a problem with the voltage stabilizer.

 

Repeat this test in the boot for the fuel sending unit.  Unplug the green/black wire from the sender and touch it to an earthing spot while the ignition is on.  If the gauge goes to "FULL" the problem is the sending unit.  If the gauge only goes to 1/2 as you mentioned above, that could be the voltage stabilizer or the gauge itself.  

[spaulwill]

You can also check the sender unit by placing a multimeter on the continuity setting. one lead on the body of the sender the other on the terminal, by moving the float up and down either with it removed or with a coat hanger inside should alter the reading. If it keeps reading 1 then this is an open circuit and is probably had it. If this is working then there are great comments above.

[1963MKI]

My gauge is not working on my mk1 1963. There is no short on the cable. I get 39 ohms on the terminal at the back of the dash. But across the terminals on the sender I get an open circuit. Any idea ? They don’t make the pre 64 senders anymore so I’m in a bit of trouble unless it can be fixed

[johnR]

If the tank has been emptied check that the sender hasn't got stuck against the side of the tank - I had that happen to me.

[1963MKI]

I can look into the tank and have moved the float up and down so I don’t think it’s that

[1963MKI]

I’ve got infinite resistance on one contact on the sender and good earth on the other. Can the mk1 senders be repaired ?