#616
Posted 18 September 2009 - 05:58 PM
I've been and spoke to the local Mini specialist who I'll be taking Elliot to for her MOT so that I could discuss the rear valance.
Basically, I wanted to bond the rear valance on in a standard fashion, with the closing plates. He said that wasn't good enough as fiberglass isn't structural enough. The only way he said I could do it is if I cut the closing plates out, stiffened the floor and then bolted the valance on after the MOT.
To be honest, I've been thinking about it and I'm wondering if I should just buy a non genuine rear valance (£9~) and make some closing plates as I intended and fit it properly as standard equipement and then sell the fg valance. It wouldn't make any difference to me really, I was tempted to get a hole saw and do holes in the metal valance to remove weight and aid in stopping the valance being the air brake it is.
Let me know what your opinions are, I'm interested to hear them .
Cheers.
#617
Posted 18 September 2009 - 06:12 PM
Ive seen a couple of times where people don't bother with valances at all, looks pretty smart to be honest, possibility maybe?
#618
Posted 18 September 2009 - 06:15 PM
Nah, I definitly don't fancy running without a valance, it makes a Mini look miles off the ground and the RC40 would be lost in space haha. I appreciate the suggestion though.
If I went metal and cut the holes in it, I think I'd get some fine metal mesh, paint it black and bond it behind the valance to try and hide the holes as best I could. Would look quite subtle.
Edited by Deathrow, 18 September 2009 - 06:17 PM.
#619
Posted 18 September 2009 - 06:18 PM
I would go with the metal valance, you've got the skills so putting it on is no problem. F/glass offers little advantage over a well fitted, well painted and preserved metal one.
Personally I hate the look of no valance at all - makes the car look too high and the rear of the subframe is ugle, especially with all the exhaust hangers etc on show.
#620
Posted 18 September 2009 - 06:21 PM
#621
Posted 18 September 2009 - 06:26 PM
It was Mini Technique at Pilling Graeme. I've seen people with fiberglass valances fitted how I wanted to (tomf for example has one) but I guess it's down to the MOT testers discression and he said he wouldn't be able to pass it.Just out of curiosity - which garage was it?
I would go with the metal valance, you've got the skills so putting it on is no problem. F/glass offers little advantage over a well fitted, well painted and preserved metal one.
Personally I hate the look of no valance at all - makes the car look too high and the rear of the subframe is ugle, especially with all the exhaust hangers etc on show.
I guess metal is the way to go. It'll take a bit longer but I suppose at the end of the day it'll look right. I wonder what the MOT regulations would say about holes in the rear valance? Or is that going to be another no no. I've got enough hoops to jump through with the flip front as it is to be honest. Although I ran my brace bar plans past him and he was more than happy about how they sounded, if a little confused as to why I was going to the extra effort to be a bit different.
Jack! I didn't know you felt that way about me!Funnily enough i was thinking about your valence today, could you not make the FG one removable?
That's basically what the MOT man said, if I made it just bolt on, removed it, MOTed it and put it back on, it would be fine. Sort of feels a bit shifty though.
EDIT: The other good news is that he quoted me between £60 and £80 to have the adjustable suspension set up to my specifications after I've fitted the kit. I think thats pretty good, unless you know somewhere better Graeme?
Edited by Deathrow, 18 September 2009 - 06:27 PM.
#622
Posted 18 September 2009 - 06:46 PM
The mesh would have to be really discrete as I think its a bit tacky honestly *waits to be shot down by others*
#623
Posted 18 September 2009 - 07:02 PM
I'd be happy to have it bolt on-bolt off as i like the idea of being able to get to the subframe and boot floor (not really sure why), maybe just to maintain bits i suppose.
Also, Paul Wiginton has slots cut out of his valence on his sprint.
Hope he doesn't mind me using his picture.
#624
Posted 18 September 2009 - 07:08 PM
The price for alignment doesn't sound bad, depending on what he propses to do, especially if it is full on 4 wheel laser job.
I must admit I have not heard glowing reports about MiniTechnique - but more due to their costs rather than quality.
#625
Posted 18 September 2009 - 07:37 PM
He charged us £90 to do all 4 ball joins on the front of our blue Mini, that seemed pretty decent to me, but I could be wrong?
I'm not sure what equipment he has, before I let him do it I'll ask if he can gurantee it's accuracy.
Oh that valance with the slots looks nice!
I think I'll place an order with Mini Spares tonight, including the valance. It's a bit of a bum because it means I can't finish the boot area off until it arrives and I can make the closing plates to fit it. I may sneak around to the front of the car and do my a-panels and strengthening while I wait for the rear valance and bits I need for my rear frame.
Let me know what you find out about rear valances Graeme, the guy at pilling did keep saying it was a grey area.
Won't be any update tomorrow, getting the keys to my Uni house .
#626
Posted 18 September 2009 - 07:55 PM
I think a metal valance with holes / shapes of some sort cut out would look good.
#627
Posted 18 September 2009 - 08:26 PM
#628
Posted 18 September 2009 - 08:34 PM
#629
Posted 18 September 2009 - 08:58 PM
I like the idea of a rear valance with some nice cut outs, but we'll see.
#630
Posted 18 September 2009 - 10:16 PM
you wont need mesh behind your holes... Elliot is black and it will be dark under there i agree with carboy001 and it would look tacky...
and i also think that price is reasonable for ball joints... however i do all my work myself... never really paid for anything!!
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