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Elliot - The Second Attempt

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#616 Deathrow

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 05:58 PM

Thanks for the comments guys, I enjoy reading them :).

I've been and spoke to the local Mini specialist who I'll be taking Elliot to for her MOT so that I could discuss the rear valance.

Basically, I wanted to bond the rear valance on in a standard fashion, with the closing plates. He said that wasn't good enough as fiberglass isn't structural enough. The only way he said I could do it is if I cut the closing plates out, stiffened the floor and then bolted the valance on after the MOT.

To be honest, I've been thinking about it and I'm wondering if I should just buy a non genuine rear valance (£9~) and make some closing plates as I intended and fit it properly as standard equipement and then sell the fg valance. It wouldn't make any difference to me really, I was tempted to get a hole saw and do holes in the metal valance to remove weight and aid in stopping the valance being the air brake it is.

Let me know what your opinions are, I'm interested to hear them :lol:.

Cheers.

#617 carboy001

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 06:12 PM

I'd be going for a metal valance like it sounds like your leaning to anyways. Plus with your bodywork skills it would probably end up a better finish. Good idea about putting holes in it to reduce drag.

Ive seen a couple of times where people don't bother with valances at all, looks pretty smart to be honest, possibility maybe?

#618 Deathrow

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 06:15 PM

I'm feeling metal at the moment, if I protect it properly it should last just fine anyway, hmmm!

Nah, I definitly don't fancy running without a valance, it makes a Mini look miles off the ground and the RC40 would be lost in space haha. I appreciate the suggestion though.

If I went metal and cut the holes in it, I think I'd get some fine metal mesh, paint it black and bond it behind the valance to try and hide the holes as best I could. Would look quite subtle.

Edited by Deathrow, 18 September 2009 - 06:17 PM.


#619 GraemeC

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 06:18 PM

Just out of curiosity - which garage was it?

I would go with the metal valance, you've got the skills so putting it on is no problem. F/glass offers little advantage over a well fitted, well painted and preserved metal one.
Personally I hate the look of no valance at all - makes the car look too high and the rear of the subframe is ugle, especially with all the exhaust hangers etc on show.

#620 mighty mini jack

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 06:21 PM

Funnily enough i was thinking about your valence today, could you not make the FG one removable?

#621 Deathrow

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 06:26 PM

Just out of curiosity - which garage was it?

I would go with the metal valance, you've got the skills so putting it on is no problem. F/glass offers little advantage over a well fitted, well painted and preserved metal one.
Personally I hate the look of no valance at all - makes the car look too high and the rear of the subframe is ugle, especially with all the exhaust hangers etc on show.

It was Mini Technique at Pilling Graeme. I've seen people with fiberglass valances fitted how I wanted to (tomf for example has one) but I guess it's down to the MOT testers discression and he said he wouldn't be able to pass it.

I guess metal is the way to go. It'll take a bit longer but I suppose at the end of the day it'll look right. I wonder what the MOT regulations would say about holes in the rear valance? Or is that going to be another no no. I've got enough hoops to jump through with the flip front as it is to be honest. Although I ran my brace bar plans past him and he was more than happy about how they sounded, if a little confused as to why I was going to the extra effort to be a bit different.

Funnily enough i was thinking about your valence today, could you not make the FG one removable?

Jack! I didn't know you felt that way about me!

That's basically what the MOT man said, if I made it just bolt on, removed it, MOTed it and put it back on, it would be fine. Sort of feels a bit shifty though.

EDIT: The other good news is that he quoted me between £60 and £80 to have the adjustable suspension set up to my specifications after I've fitted the kit. I think thats pretty good, unless you know somewhere better Graeme?

Edited by Deathrow, 18 September 2009 - 06:27 PM.


#622 carboy001

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 06:46 PM

Silly question maybe but why do you have to have a rear valance for the MOT or non fibreglass anyways?

The mesh would have to be really discrete as I think its a bit tacky honestly *waits to be shot down by others* :)

#623 mighty mini jack

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 07:02 PM

I do!

I'd be happy to have it bolt on-bolt off as i like the idea of being able to get to the subframe and boot floor (not really sure why), maybe just to maintain bits i suppose.

Also, Paul Wiginton has slots cut out of his valence on his sprint.

Hope he doesn't mind me using his picture.

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#624 GraemeC

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 07:08 PM

I'll ask some questions later this week regarding the valance - I think with the right tester it wouldn't be a problem. The MoT states no corrosion within a certain distance of suspension mounting points - it says nothing about missing bits completely!! As you say - testers discretion.

The price for alignment doesn't sound bad, depending on what he propses to do, especially if it is full on 4 wheel laser job.
I must admit I have not heard glowing reports about MiniTechnique - but more due to their costs rather than quality.

#625 Deathrow

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 07:37 PM

It's his parts I've found costly rather than his labour.

He charged us £90 to do all 4 ball joins on the front of our blue Mini, that seemed pretty decent to me, but I could be wrong?

I'm not sure what equipment he has, before I let him do it I'll ask if he can gurantee it's accuracy.

Oh that valance with the slots looks nice!

I think I'll place an order with Mini Spares tonight, including the valance. It's a bit of a bum because it means I can't finish the boot area off until it arrives and I can make the closing plates to fit it. I may sneak around to the front of the car and do my a-panels and strengthening while I wait for the rear valance and bits I need for my rear frame.

Let me know what you find out about rear valances Graeme, the guy at pilling did keep saying it was a grey area.

Won't be any update tomorrow, getting the keys to my Uni house :).

#626 1275 SPRITE

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 07:55 PM

Lots of things are grey areas for the MOT, but in lots of cases 'if its not there it cant be tested', for example you dont have to have a windscreen for the MOT, but if you do have one and its cracked in zone A then its a fail!

I think a metal valance with holes / shapes of some sort cut out would look good.

#627 Saxo-Fiesta-Mini

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 08:26 PM

great work mate to be honest i think 90 is little bit expensive when ball joints are £30 so hes charging £60 labour and wont take 2 hours so yeh not bad not great

#628 analogue_radio

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 08:34 PM

Good taste with the rear valance, check my thread in a few weeks for a parcel containing something very similar :)

#629 Deathrow

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 08:58 PM

I can imagine that 4 ball joints could easily take 2 hours if they were done properly.

I like the idea of a rear valance with some nice cut outs, but we'll see.

#630 tedmcedd

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 10:16 PM

to be honest i wouldn't of mentioned that it was fibreglass.... lol

you wont need mesh behind your holes... Elliot is black and it will be dark under there :errr: i agree with carboy001 and it would look tacky... :angel:

and i also think that price is reasonable for ball joints... however i do all my work myself... never really paid for anything!! :)





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