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Car Failed Mot, Roughly How Much Will It Cost To Fix


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#1 tino

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Posted 19 June 2008 - 12:20 PM

Hi,

Ive not been on here for a while but the mini failed it's last MOT so im just wondering what the rough cost will be to fix her. She failed on the following...

(both front) Headlamp Aim to low (Guess thats just a screw adjustment?)

Nearside rear (x2) subframe mounting prescrobed area is excessively corroded [2.4.A.2]

Offside rear subframe mounting prescrobed area is excessively corroded [2.4.A.2]

Offside front track rod end ball pin shank loose [2.2.b.1c] (what is this??)

Offside front suspension arm has excessive play in a ball joint [2.4.G.3] (Also whats this part?)

Offside rear brake recording little or no effort [3.7.a.7a]

Offside rear parking brake recording little or no effort [3.7.a.7a] (I assume these last two are linked?)

Ive been quoted £120 for the welding however im wondering if it would be cheaper to buy a new subframe. The other parts to be honest im not sure on so any advice would be appreciated. 

Thanks

tino

#2 mk3 Cooper S

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Posted 19 June 2008 - 12:24 PM

I think the new subframe would not sort the subframe mounts as they are on the body.

The list looks like a typical Mini MOT failure and could be quite easily sorted by a half competant home mechanic or local Mini enthusiast??

#3 tino

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Posted 19 June 2008 - 12:26 PM

I can do alot of the work apart from the welding myself I think....however im not sure what each part refers to so im limited to what I can do :D

Edited by tino, 19 June 2008 - 12:27 PM.


#4 lrostoke

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Posted 19 June 2008 - 12:39 PM

Hi,

Ive not been on here for a while but the mini failed it's last MOT so im just wondering what the rough cost will be to fix her. She failed on the following...

(both front) Headlamp Aim to low (Guess thats just a screw adjustment?)

yes easy just adjust the aim.

Nearside rear (x2) subframe mounting prescrobed area is excessively corroded [2.4.A.2]

If your lucky they may have marked the corroded area with yellow chalk, but the subframe only bolts on in 4 places, check just behind the rear wheel where it bolts on, and also at the front of the subframe.

Offside rear subframe mounting prescrobed area is excessively corroded [2.4.A.2]

see above

Offside front track rod end ball pin shank loose [2.2.b.1c] (what is this??)

drivers side steering trackrod, just replace the trackrod end

Offside front suspension arm has excessive play in a ball joint [2.4.G.3] (Also whats this part?)

If you look at the hub you will see a balljoint at the top and bottom, drivers side as to much play, they can be adjusted by removing shims, but you may need a new one

Offside rear brake recording little or no effort [3.7.a.7a]

Offside rear parking brake recording little or no effort [3.7.a.7a] (I assume these last two are linked?)

Could be leaking wheel cylinder, worn shoes, or just need adjusting

Ive been quoted £120 for the welding however im wondering if it would be cheaper to buy a new subframe. The other parts to be honest im not sure on so any advice would be appreciated. 

It hasn't failed on the subframe so just get the welding done, they will have to remove the subframe to do the welding so its a good time to clean it up and repaint it :D

Thanks

tino



#5 Ethel

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Posted 19 June 2008 - 12:49 PM

(both front) Headlamp Aim to low (Guess thats just a screw adjustment?)

Yes, just need adjusting

Nearside rear (x2) subframe mounting prescrobed area is excessively corroded [2.4.A.2]

You've got bad rust on the body (or subframe) within a foot of the mountings - a little clarificion woudn't hurt, ask the tester

Offside rear subframe mounting prescrobed area is excessively corroded [2.4.A.2]

as above

Offside front track rod end ball pin shank loose [2.2.b.1c] (what is this??)

the ball joint on the end of the steering rack is loose.

Offside front suspension arm has excessive play in a ball joint [2.4.G.3] (Also whats this part?)

steering joint as above GSJ734

Offside rear brake recording little or no effort [3.7.a.7a]

possibly a leaky wheel cylinder strip it and see

Offside rear parking brake recording little or no effort [3.7.a.7a] (I assume these last two are linked?)

could be, cable pivots could also be seized

Ive been quoted £120 for the welding however im wondering if it would be cheaper to buy a new subframe. The other parts to be honest im not sure on so any advice would be appreciated.

for £120 I'd look at a new subby, assuming it is the subby and not the body that needs attention

#6 tino

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Posted 19 June 2008 - 12:59 PM

Ok to confirm before I buy this is the trackrod end, http://www.minispare....aspx?pid=34032

edit: thanks Ethel for the part number for the above.

edit again: although its not finding anything on the minispares website :D

Edited by tino, 19 June 2008 - 01:03 PM.


#7 Ethel

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Posted 19 June 2008 - 01:07 PM

The tester's description for the track rod ends is a bit ambiguous, he could mean the the joint is fine but not fitted properly to the steering arm, but it's more likely it is worn. I'd defo speak to him about the welding, surprised he didn't explain the test report to you.

#8 cambiker71

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Posted 19 June 2008 - 01:13 PM

Hi,

Ive not been on here for a while but the mini failed it's last MOT so im just wondering what the rough cost will be to fix her. She failed on the following...

(both front) Headlamp Aim to low (Guess thats just a screw adjustment?)

Nearside rear (x2) subframe mounting prescrobed area is excessively corroded [2.4.A.2]

Offside rear subframe mounting prescrobed area is excessively corroded [2.4.A.2]

Offside front track rod end ball pin shank loose [2.2.b.1c] (what is this??)

Offside front suspension arm has excessive play in a ball joint [2.4.G.3] (Also whats this part?)

Offside rear brake recording little or no effort [3.7.a.7a]

Offside rear parking brake recording little or no effort [3.7.a.7a] (I assume these last two are linked?)

Ive been quoted £120 for the welding however im wondering if it would be cheaper to buy a new subframe. The other parts to be honest im not sure on so any advice would be appreciated. 

Thanks

tino


Section 2.4.g.3 is the steering rack track rod end is either loose so needs tightening up or it's worn out, although looking at the wording i'm guessing it's loose as the reason for rejection list does include a sentence mentioning 'excessive play in a track rod end balljoint' which indicates wear.
and section 2.4.g.3 is either the top or bottom hub swivel balljoint has excessive play, usually adjustable unless badly worn.

Ask the garage/tester about the prescribed areas and what he wants to see repaired for the retest, it could save you a lot of work,
i would also ask him about the readings on the brakes, i.e were any of the rear readings ok? it'll give you a better idea what will be needed to gain the all important 'green ticket'
If the garage is any good, they'll gladly give you advice on the necessary repairs, but be prepared to wait for a free slot to see the tester!! I've lost count of the amount of customers who have brought back cars that haven't been repaired properly due to not understanding what's needed to pass.
good luck

#9 tino

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Posted 19 June 2008 - 01:26 PM

The place I took it to does MOT's only so I have to take it elsewhere to get it repaired.

The subframe is where the yellow marks are on (at least the two of them) the top one I can't see very well but it appears to be on the subframe.

I forgot to mention a front piece that needs welding that was included in the £120, said it would be roughly £30 a patch.

Also I have park Brake Efficienct at 6% and Service Brake Efficiency at 39%.

They explained the welding work quite well I just forgot to ask about the Offside front suspension arm, so thats my fault. Might just give them a call again.

Thanks for all the help so far. It is much appreciated.

#10 cambiker71

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Posted 19 June 2008 - 01:37 PM

The place I took it to does MOT's only so I have to take it elsewhere to get it repaired.

The subframe is where the yellow marks are on (at least the two of them) the top one I can't see very well but it appears to be on the subframe.

I forgot to mention a front piece that needs welding that was included in the £120, said it would be roughly £30 a patch.

Also I have park Brake Efficienct at 6% and Service Brake Efficiency at 39%.

They explained the welding work quite well I just forgot to ask about the Offside front suspension arm, so thats my fault. Might just give them a call again.

Thanks for all the help so far. It is much appreciated.

Sounds like the brake wheel cylinders have leaked fluid over everything inside the drums, if so a pair of new wheel cylinders and a set of shoes will be needed at least, new shoe return springs are cheap to replace while you're at it too

#11 Ethel

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Posted 19 June 2008 - 01:45 PM

If it is the subframe that's rotten I'd have a think about whether repairing it is worth the effort, chances are you'll only be delaying fitting a new one by a year or two.

#12 tino

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Posted 20 June 2008 - 10:17 AM

Sorry my last reply to this topic I hope, I will probably need this part? http://www.minispare....aspx?pid=34032

For the Offside front track rod end ball pin shank loose [2.2.b.1c] and Offside front suspension arm has excessive play in a ball joint [2.4.G.3]

Correct?

An for the brake http://www.minispare....aspx?pid=34442, http://www.minispare....aspx?pid=34707 and http://www.minispare....aspx?pid=34427 depending on what it looks like when I take a look?

Sorry for asking the basic questions would just like to like to get it right ;)

Edited by tino, 20 June 2008 - 10:17 AM.





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