48 replies to this topic

[dudio_me]

again, id like to know why that hole is there too.

as for tools. i wish i read this a year ago. i was stuck for something to use so in all my wisdom found an old pair of mole grips and looking for a peice of something to use like wood, i failed, so i welded an old coil bracket to the top face of the grips.... i have used this soooo many times since then and cannot fault it, who would honestly buy a *skin fitting tool* dont bother, as like most *specialist tools* make one!!

scott

[gretzky38]

I know I'm late catching the bus with this thread, but I tried this today and would like to thank the OP for this tip.

I am totally new to Mini restoration, yet was able to manage this task following the process detailed here and have to say am very pleased with the result.

Here's to restoration on a budget!!

[ToM 2012]

great tip will give this ago myself

[087dave]

Hi guys can you use this method for a door skin, has anybody done so

cherrs dave

[minimartin1]

I don't see why not but you would be there forever doing it that way. Best bet is hammer n dolly

[tiger99]

Or buy a door skinning tool. I think Frost have them, but there may be cheaper sources.

[sonikk4]

Door skinning tools are ok but beware some of them will mark the return lip as the only the skin side has a nylon face whereas the inside section that folds over the lip is quite narrow and has no protection. I would definitely go for the hammer and dolly method and only use the tool where it is difficult to use the hammer and block.

[087dave]

Thanks for the advise

[Tomm]

Could anyone point me in the right direction to a MK1/2 a-pannel fitting guide? I cant seem to find it via the search.

Thanks!

[zony]

This is really good but more pics would be nice.

 

Thanks

[zony]

Do you just fold with seam sealer inside and leave it. I have seen some projects on here where a few plug welds are put in too.

[cookie564]

They usually have three or four spot welds onto the hinge pillar. There is one spot weld at the bottom onto the sill/doorstep. From the factory they were actually braised across the top and then there is a row of spot welds where they meet the wing.

For most peole who don't have access to a spot welder substitute "spot-weld" with "plug weld". I also usually MIG across the top - just need to be a bit careful and you need something like a die grinder or dremel to dress the weld off afterwards to make it look pretty as you can't get an angle grinder in as you can with the plug welds on the outer face. That said I treated myself to a TIG set over Christmas so next time I do a set they will likely be either braised or I'll just fuse the edges of the panel to the A-post but again we're getting into equipment that most people won't have at home.

Iain

i would like to beg to differ on this i restore minis for a living and mk 3 onwards as in internal hinge the a panel should have a tiny lip steping it away from the a post and have a little blob of weld at the back end nearest the door then 1 or 2 spot welds on the outside of the folded edge then to the outer lip of the door step then obviously spot/ mig plugged down the wing to a panel seem dont forget to put the little angled plate back on wheel arch lip where the wing and apanel meet

 

regards paul the anorack lol

[Marco1972]

I've used this method recently and it works very well once you have started to bend the lip it folds easily and looks factory

I'd recommend giving it a go and will use this method again.

[philpurdy]

I used a big set of water pump pliers and a ford camshaft locking tool     

[harrythehat]

putting a couple of door skins on and was debating on getting a folding tool, but after seeing what one did to a door skin of Alice's (wasn't me)

used the hammer and dolly method described above on the last skin I did. came out a hellova lot better than the tool.

 

Got the brain thinkin

made this

 

didn't think that much as made it left handed

but it works really well not a ripple on the outside edge of panel

 

offset welded 15mm angle and set it so it crimps it the top edge

made it extra long so it didn't warp anything, could well be shorter

a sight quicker tan hammer and a lot quieter, Yippee

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