314 replies to this topic

[BMC Paul]

Lovely! really top quality work and hard to belive your first build etc!!!
One thing ive noticed is the nyloc nut for bottom shocker hasnt got the thread of the arm coming through, if you get a picky mot tester they could fail it, id just remove it and put a spring washer behind. job done! Silly thing but they failed my cooper three weeks ago on the same thing! Have you gone solid, poly or rubber mounts for front subframe?

Keep up the good work, ( ive added you as a friend to watch your progress! )

Paul

[penfold38]

Hello Paul,
Thanks for the tip, so just remove the plate washers and replace with spring one??

As you say would be a shame to take for its mot and fail on that!!, i will have to jack it back up now its on the wheels.

I have used poly bushes all round front/rear for durability.

I have one a panel to fit on drivers side then need to start on stripping the doors and asess the condition.

rgds

[Retro_10s]

I've never seen front bumpstops like yours (they appear to be causing the problem of your shocks retaingin nyloc not winding on correctly) are they later top and bottom arms?.... wierd!

mike.

[penfold38]

The bump stops and all the front suspension is the same as when i got it,all i have done is clean and replace.

Should i replace with new ones?? not sure what they look like.

[Retro_10s]

The bumpstops generally bolt through the top of the subframe (on the bit the cone sits inside)

Here you can see the bumpstop... it will still engage on the top arm as you can see:


I could be wrong,... i've just never seen ones like yours before.

Also,... I can see now that you're shocks aren't on fully becuase of that little spacer,... if you're intending on keeping those bump stops then there's not much you can do but maybe trim the spacer down a bit.
the Nyloc ring needs to to wind onto the thread to work. If you're going to replace those bump stops with the usual type as pictured above... this gives you the clearence to get the shocks on properly as the mounting bracket for those
bumps stops wont be interfering....

Also,... don't forget to knock the edge of the large lock washer up around the dome on the ball joints.

[penfold38]

Thks for the info, may replace with orignal ones that bolt through the front subframe, will they be easy too replace? and can someone send me a link to the correct ones i need?.

Rgds

[Retro_10s]

Here's a link to the bumps stops. I think you'll need single bolt ones, but can't be sure, you might need twin bolt type. have a look at your subframe. yes they're easy to fit.

>>LINKY<<

Looks like you've got Bump stops that were originally on a Hydro-elastic subframe

[clescole22]

you are doing a good job there penfold
looking v nice

[lostininglewood]

nice work. i love clubbys!!

[BMC Paul]

keep up the good work!!!

[adam_mini]

Hi Mate,

Just found this thread and first thing i must say is well done for saving another mini from the crusher!!!

Also your doing a nice job of it keep going

Ill be keeping an eye on this one

[penfold38]

Thanks everyone for the replies keeps me going!!, the clubby is now down on its wheels easier for moving around.

Have fitted new fuse box and renewed any worn or broken wiring connections,stripped steering column replaced with new stalks and refurbed the steering wheel.

Next job is the last body panel to replace is a panel then reskin the doors.

new fuse box in.



connected.



Also washer pump fitted.



And the remaining a panel.!!

[Retro_10s]

lovely nothing like tidy wiring

[Gazza211]

Hi Penfold

Takes a brave man to put a new roof on, Respect! The attention to detail looks wicked, love the colour by the way, i think the bumpstops are competition parts for a hydrolastic mini to stop the fore-aft pitching.

Best of luck with the project

[penfold38]

i must admit i was dreading fitting the roof but the spot welder made it easy, and reference to the front bumstops not a problem if i leave them on?