69 replies to this topic

[DaveRob]

My info suggests that the 1.4k16SPi injector as listed above has a flow rate significantly more than the std cooper injector....893cc/min @3 bar pressure with a resistance of 1.3 ohm.... This will affect performance mainly in the high rev range.... IE the pulse width of the injector allows more fuel to flow in a given pulse.... so on lower revs the injector will have a lower pulse due to the closed loop system controlling the fuel air mix... consequntly I shouldnt run out of pulse width at higher revs..... I also anticipate that fuel pressure will need to be modified. If you dont have the power to start with then the big bore wont help anyways and may be detrimental..... The dry deck wont affect performance but I suggest that the power you have is checked on a RR or chassis dyno

Re The TB..... Im boring mine to 44mm and using the SU butterfly that goes with the 1 3/4 carb.... machine work to suit the buterfly and not boring it first so I get a good match.

Photos soon .... ( Im away with work at the mo so cant do an update till next week)...... engine is now together and roll cage is fitted.... just to prep and paint and then install engine and rear subframe.

Rob

[Sprocket]

hey folks - still trying to see where my power is being lost - other than in the local belgian brew
got 10.0/1 cr
stage 3 head
ligthly polished inlet- and mated to head
1380 -6cc dish - decked - but not dry decked
ecu MNE101080 from the infamous 104bhp spi 114
maniflow LCB - not large bore
and then sw5 cam from swifttune

could it be the std injector - having now got the info about the 114 spi injector it just is referanced as identical to the 1275 spi injector in my rover base<
should i upgrade to large bore lcb ?

my iphone dyno reckons i've got 35 kw/wheel- which is 60 bhp at crank <<<<

gutted

You need the larger injector, the standard injector runs out of squirt even with a Mini ECU. Either that, or increase the fuel pressure, its a bit hit and miss if you ask me. The part you are looking at in Rover parts catalogues, is not just the injector, its the housing which incorporates the fuel pressure regulator as well. If my memory serves the 114 16v SPi fuel pressure regulator is set a little higher than the Mini SPi, but not by much. What you should really do is have the injector, fuel pressure regulator and the ECU all from the same engine, that way, on the Mini the only difference is the air consumption, giving the adaptive parameters less work to do.

I dont recall the 114 16v Spi injector being as big as you say Rob, I thought it was more like 680cc, I may be wrong, its a similar size to the VW Polo 1.8SPi injector, which also works.

I know the MNE101080 ECU works on 1293 with 10:1 compression, kent MD274SP cam and a gas flowed head, Jackman uses it infact that is my ECU

I am yet to be convinced about those Iphone dyno's, they either over or under read. Its a gimik IMHO and no substitute for a real dyno, doesnt even come close. Mind you, if you said its 60bhp at the wheels, then the flywheel figure could be anywhere between 80 and 90bhp which is not far off the mark

[DaveRob]

Just went off this info....... could be wrong tho....

http://www.polog40.c...ector_table.php

Rob

[Sprocket]

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...t...93:1|294:50




I think this is the right one

[KLAS]

this VW injector is right between the Mini SPi (0280150682) and the 114GTI (0280150657) with its volume

[Rented]

following this intently , sounds like great fun and as a fellow SPI mini owner its good to read this to see the experiences of pushing more power from the engines whilst retaining alot of the original markup of the injection engine . alot i saw in a previous post ( Page 2 ? ) about the running tally , a full break down as you have done at the end would be fantastic as a reference please !

Hope all goes well and best of luck !

[DaveRob]

Following on from Renteds post here..... and because im away working over a weekend and have nothing to do but browse TMF lol..... I thought id list everything done so far to this car so later it will be less work to sumarise when the car is eventually finished.

SO.......

Engine... ( from the bottom up )

Gearbox:

Ive rebuilt this 3 times now... mainly because after I finished it 1st time I decided to go full straight cut

Gearbox completly stripped right down to the last spring, nut, needle bearing etc etc
Take bare case and clean it for about 4 days solid, ( unless you have a dip tank you wont get it totally spotless... but ive used everything I can lay my hands on to get it totally clean).

Every bearing replaced with new, all baulk rings replaced with new MiniSpares comp baulks, competition layshaft, every circlip replaced, all synchro springs replaced, Gear set replaced with straight cut close ratio set. Center oil pick up installed. gearbox case fixings replaced with M 8 cap screws. It goes without saying that all gaskets and seals replaced. X pin diff installed. New output shaft bearings installed.

Block

Stripped completly and rebored / honed to 73.5mm. 11 stud head modification. All oil gallery plugs pulled, 4 for the ends, one in the base of the block for the oil pressure release blow through and the rivet under the pressure release.... all replaced with brass taper plugs. New cam bearings installed. gearbox fixings drilled and tapped M 8. All waterway and oil feeds to the head drilled and tapped with brass taper plugs installed for dry deck. MiniSpares Mega Pistons (7cc dish) fitted to end over end balanced rods. ARP rod bolts fitted. New big end bearings. Block flycut to give me 11:1 comp ratio and 16thou deck to piston height. Spigot made to fit core plug positoin for dry deck and installed to front core plug at Wok end of engine. Crank is back drilled, wedged, bladed and toughend and balanced to the rotating assy. new mains. crank is reground to 10/10. center main strap fitted. Kent 274SP cam fitted. new oil pump. new water pump. lightened chilled iron cam followers with oil drain fitted. new thrust washers, every thread run through with appropriate tap for cleaning. all seals and gaskets replaced. timing gear plate replaced wth alloy version. duplex timing chain. vernier duplex timing gear set. new tensioner. all core plugs replaced.

Transfer assembly

new transfer housing. all bearings replaced. straight cut roller transfer gears.


Clutch / Rotating assembly

Fully lightened and balanced clutch assembly. Orange Diaphram and AP racing bonded clutch. S damper setup with the machined pully for my relocated crank sensor. new clutch release bearing. full diaphram clutch working parts installed and the verto style parts junked.

Head Assembly

flowed and ported head... 36x31 valves with double springs, ported and matched to the manifold doweled for location. All water and oil ways drilled and tapped for brass taper plugs for dry deck. flycut to match block deck. 11 stud head modification. 1.5 roller rockers. relocated rocker oil feed to plug behind thermostat position. New valves / guides and all gaskets and seals replaced. Drydeck spigot installed. ARP head studs fittted throughout.

Shell

Completly stripped and all rust cut out and replaced with new panels <THIS WAS AND IS THE HARDEST PART> full custom cages Miglia cage welded in < this was the second hardest part.... as I expected it to fit pretty closly..... and sometimes it felt like it was made for a bigger car...... shell is currently at the paint shop.... Paint is the only job im not doing... I dont want to mess up by 'learnig how to paint' when the mechanicals are as good as I can get them.

Subframes

Completly stripped and rebuilt. Rear sub assy....rebulit radius arms and backplates... basically new bearings, brake cylinders, brakes, braided hoses, new cones, HiLows, knucles, fully adjustable camber brackets. Front Sub Assy.... New top arms, bearings, knuckles, cones, bump stops, rebound rubbers, fully adjustable tie bars and bottom arms, offset bushes, tie bushes, solid mounts throughout.

Brakes

Std rear shoes , Super MiniFins with metro 4 pot calipers at the front. New seals and stainless pistons. Braided hoses throughout. vented disks. all wheel bearings, ball joints and track rods replaced.



Well so far thats all I can think of.... im sure ive missed something but will update when I remember them..... when I get back to the UK in a couple days Ill post some pictures of the progress and an assembled engine and the other bits and pieces.... It sure goes back together faster than it came apart lol..... only work gets in the way of finishing it at the moment

Thanks to all who have posted and expressed interest in this build..... the comments and support are great when it all seems to go Sooooo slowly.

As always the greatest thanks and kudos goes to Sprocket on here... cheers for the help and advice mate its much appriciated.

Rob

Edited by DaveRob, 06 June 2009 - 02:56 AM.

[dougie1142]

good topic, inspirational stuff! keep it up man, like to see the results!

[John H]

Any more progress?

[DaveRob]

This has turned into a long marathon.... the engine is finished and the shell is in the paint shop.... The rear subframe is completley rebuilt with new rad arms backplates and brakes along with Super Minifins... goodrich hoses all round. I rebuilt one side of the front hub and driveshaft assembly today Ill do the other one in the morning.. pic follows

 DSCF1536.JPG   1.23MB   57 downloads

Metro Turbo 4 pot calipers and vented disks.... new bearings and CVs.

Ive posted a before and after... you can see the state of the rusty old stuff..... Ill banish that rust if it kills me on this Mini.

The front subframe is finiished and Im now just waiting for the shell back so I can put the rolling subs back in and then the engine and all the anciliarys. Ill post some more pictures tommorrow if I get time but am off to see Chris and the Z cars at Croft tommorrow.

Update soon

Rob

[John H]

Are they metro or mini hubs you are using?

[DaveRob]

Mini hubs.... infact they are the original hubs with the metro drive flanges and the vented disks.... drive flanges just had the lumps machined off

Rob

[John H]

Does the disc shield fit back on with the 4-pots?

[DaveRob]

Im not running with the disk shields..... but Ill have a look and post up soon

Rob

[John H]

Just curious as I am going to be running the same setup as yourself and wouldn't mind being able to keep the disc shields.