562 replies to this topic

[Gr4h4m]

The drive flanges came from an MG metro with 4 pot calipers.

We used MG turbo flanges or you can use and metro flange with vented discs, so I think the four pot ones should be good.

Mark only used one washer per mounting face so a total of 4 for the car.

[miniboo]

they have to be from vented discs. so that you get the right offset of the disc

[$way]

i only need one washer as well

[duncancallum]

I've gon down this route to but have a couple of questions:

when the braket is bolted to the hub it pulls against the disc is it best to file the mount or just use a washer to get the clearance?

also they just slighty touch the d1s so o was going to file/polish the callpier up to clear it

any other tips

[$way]

I've gon down this route to but have a couple of questions:

when the braket is bolted to the hub it pulls against the disc is it best to file the mount or just use a washer to get the clearance?

also they just slighty touch the d1s so o was going to file/polish the callpier up to clear it

any other tips

using a washer is by far the easiest thing to do and on mine i found it pushed the mount out to the perfect distance.

i wouldnt advise removing any material from the caliper but it might be ok to just "polish" it...

[duncancallum]

hi its only just scuffing i recon just runing over it with a flap disk just to clean the casting up

thanks for the reply

[Scruffs]

Hi all,

I'm looking at doing this conversion and have a couple of questions that I can't find answers to, if anyone can help it'd be much appreciated!

What's the overall effect on the brake balance? If anyone has a similar setup to my planned one then I'd like to hear from you! Yellow band master cylinder, Fiesta calipers on solid discs (no drillings/slots etc), 3/4" bore rear cylinders and 165/70's on cosmic 10x6's (hopefully yoko 008's)

How did you square up the upright on the bed of the mill so as to machine the caliper mount face paralell with the disc? I can't think of anywhere obvious, although I don't have an upright in my hand at the mo...

Cheers!

Al

[Gr4h4m]

Hi all,

I'm looking at doing this conversion and have a couple of questions that I can't find answers to, if anyone can help it'd be much appreciated!

What's the overall effect on the brake balance? If anyone has a similar setup to my planned one then I'd like to hear from you! Yellow band master cylinder, Fiesta calipers on solid discs (no drillings/slots etc), 3/4" bore rear cylinders and 165/70's on cosmic 10x6's (hopefully yoko 008's)

How did you square up the upright on the bed of the mill so as to machine the caliper mount face paralell with the disc? I can't think of anywhere obvious, although I don't have an upright in my hand at the mo...

Cheers!

Al

They yellow band should be cool as its .075 to the front and .70 to the rear.. My car had a brake limit valve on the rear subframe so I never changed the rear cylinders, but it you are locking the rears before the fronts the norm route is to change to the very small 1275GT cylinders Mini spares sell them.
The 10x6 Gb I have rub on the wheel arch on full lock so I have just swapped to 10x5 with 165 tyres, I also use A008 and it brakes as good at the 12" 8.4" mini's

[bmcecosse]

Interesting 'drum' conversion. Do these Fiat discs go straight on - or do they need any machining ?

[Gr4h4m]

Interesting 'drum' conversion. Do these Fiat discs go straight on - or do they need any machining ?

Purtsi is the man on that conversion he uncovered it...

[ChrisL]

Finally managed a drive in the Mini last night after fitting the fiesta calipers. I think the brakes still need some bleeding, there seems a lot more pedal travel then before and the brakes don't pull up very good.

I could only bleed the offside rear and both front brakes due to the nearside rear nipple being seized, would this effect the pedal travel? my car is an 85 on a C plate and the brakes are split from a valve on the bulkhead. Two pipes come from the master cylinder and split front to rear from this valve, if I have only disturbed the front pipes will air still get to the rear brakes?

Anyway test driving was put on hold due to the car cutting out at tickover and throwing petrol out the overflow.

[Gr4h4m]

Can't remember about the twin circuit MC's but I think its covered in the Haynes manual.. I use a single circuit bean can...Either way IMO it would be best to bleed all of the brakes to re-fresh the fluid.
Long pedal is norm down to incorrect adjusted rear brakes... I have a high firm pedal but you do have to keep on ensuring the rears are adjusted... Squishy pedal is norm air... check the Haynes manual all bleeding is covered in there.


Oh if you have new front calipers the seals on mine kept sucking the piston all of the way back in so you had to move lots of fluid to push the pads against the disks on the first press. I have since read that this can be quite common try jamming the pedal on over night with a stick, if this is the case. You can check but taking the wheels off and checking if the piston is fully returning.

[ChrisL]

Thanks for that, I'm gonna get a new rear bleed nipple / wheel cylinder on Sunday at Stanford Hall and also some new wheel arches to cover the 6 x 10 wellers which now stick out by approx 2 1/2" from the old standard mini plastic arches!!!

On early drives the car seems to handle far better on the wellers then the 5 x 12 superlites.

[Gr4h4m]

10's are just soooo cool

[ChrisL]

bleeded the brakes again the other night and the pedal seems a lot better (might do it again tho'). Following my quick drive the other night I took the wheels off and the disc's are bright for about an 1" thick around the outer edge, I guess this will increase as the brakes bed in and braking will improve as this happens?

Bought some group 6 arches from Stanford on Sunday so these will be going on tomorrow and the car will be road worthy again.... can't wait to throw round some roundabouts!!!