562 replies to this topic

[$way]

Heres mine in the 6x10 wellers, as you can obviously tell from the C**p picture, theres loads of room, even enough for the clip on style balance weight.



i will be removing the caliper again though and filing to edge to fit a banjo.

[Gr4h4m]

Heres mine in the 6x10 wellers, as you can obviously tell from the C**p picture, theres loads of room, even enough for the clip on style balance weight.



i will be removing the caliper again though and filing to edge to fit a banjo.

looks a great job...

[$way]

yeah im pleased with it, just need hoses and new bleed nipples now

[OllyD]

Ok, so i've just been rifling through various topics on this to make list of things to get from the breakers tomorrow. I've already got a donor disc setup. So far I need:

• Fiesta Mk1 calipers -with carriers and mounting brackets (are these the same thing?)
• Metro vented drive flange
• Longer metro mounting bolts

Is that right, or have i just demonstrated a complete lack of knowledge? Anything missing?

[Gr4h4m]

Ok, so i've just been rifling through various topics on this to make list of things to get from the breakers tomorrow. I've already got a donor disc setup. So far I need:

• Fiesta Mk1 calipers -with carriers and mounting brackets (are these the same thing?)
• Metro vented drive flange
• Longer metro mounting bolts

Is that right, or have i just demonstrated a complete lack of knowledge? Anything missing?

The caliper carrier is the same thing as the bracket and its the most important part of the caliper as you can get recon'd calipers for about £40 a side but they dont come with the carrier or the slides

That should be your list for the scrappy... You can also look for the Mk2 caliper as they are easier to find, and look a better design to me.

[$way]

hoses as well.

[OllyD]

Cheers for advice guys. Another question for you Graham.

I'm just ordering my new bits and pieces from minispares, using your list from MiniAddicts. Could you possibly clarify what you mean by driveshaft clips, and which larger brake master cylinder? Page links or product numbers would be brillo!

[Gr4h4m]

Cheers for advice guys. Another question for you Graham.

I'm just ordering my new bits and pieces from minispares, using your list from MiniAddicts. Could you possibly clarify what you mean by drive shaft clips, and which larger brake master cylinder? Page links or product numbers would be brillo!

The drive shaft clip - I rang minispares and asked for it I think its 37H8706, but please check with them. You must remember I'm going from Drums to discs if you have disc's at the mo you wont need to remove the drive shaft and CV joint. We do as we need to change the CV joint for the larger disc brake type and when you remove the CV from the shaft you damage the clip. If you have discs now you can just remove the hub, so it can be drilled out. We are also refurb'ing all of the bearings and ball joints whilst everything it off; we took the view that we didn't want to do all of this work for it not to be safe or have to strip everything again, but its your choice.

The Master Cylinder - I changed this before we started the conversion about a year ago on when I was getting my mini back on the road. The old Drum master cylinder held less fluid, I upgraded this to a clear plastic type as it had a slightly larger capacity, as you could be moving more fluid with the caliper pistons; also as the pads wear the pistons will move out further and the fluid level will drop. Using the clear plastic one you can check the fluid level at a glance which I do before each club run. As an alternative you can get an extension tube to allow more fluid in the cylinder and its also clear so you can check it quickly.
The extension tube can be found here, http://www.minispare....aspx?pid=33659.
This is the same type of master cylinder I got from Jonspeed http://www.minispare....aspx?pid=38017

Talking about brake fluid movement, if you are going from Drum's to Discs you may need to change your rear wheel cylinders for smaller 1275GT type ones, this is to stop you putting your foot on the brake and more force being applied to the rear faster than the front which will result in the rear wheels locking before the front which is very dangerous. You might have a rear brake valve mounted on the rear subframe to stop this.

Good luck mate

Edited by Gr4h4m, 28 February 2007 - 11:31 AM.

[Gr4h4m]

P.S your pic always makes me yawn.... Does it have this effect on everyone....

[$way]

lol yup.

[OllyD]

Ah, brilliant answers. Thank you very much! I'm already starting with discs, but since i'm building a full subframe up from scratch, I'm ugrading and renewing most parts as well.

Ps. I'll change my icon now for you guys

[Purtsi]

Yay. I finally got my brake conversion ready Now with the 2mm spacer the disc is nicely centered

Seems to work OK too. I have driven only few kilometers so far just to test that it doesn't leak. I need to wait for all the snow to melt down before I'll do longer test runs. It feels pretty much same as normal 2-pot calipers i think. Although those ebc pads need to embed a little longer to bite better.

[Gr4h4m]

Yay. I finally got my brake conversion ready Now with the 2mm spacer the disc is nicely centered

Seems to work OK too. I have driven only few kilometers so far just to test that it doesn't leak. I need to wait for all the snow to melt down before I'll do longer test runs. It feels pretty much same as normal 2-pot calipers i think. Although those ebc pads need to embed a little longer to bite better.

cool, will you do a review of the brakes once the roads are a little better? how does the pedal feel ?

Edited by Gr4h4m, 11 March 2007 - 06:40 PM.

[Purtsi]

cool, will you do a review of the brakes once the roads are a little better? how does the pedal feel ?

Can do. At the mo the pedal needs to be pushed quite far, but when the pads hit the discs, it doesn't need so much power to stop the car.

[Gr4h4m]

cool, will you do a review of the brakes once the roads are a little better? how does the pedal feel ?

Can do. At the mo the pedal needs to be pushed quite far, but when the pads hit the discs, it doesn't need so much power to stop the car.

Did you go from drums to discs?