
Steering Drop Bracket
#1
Posted 15 January 2008 - 05:57 PM
Rite finally want to fit me steering drop bracket and ive heard that you have to undo 4 bolts in the floor
If so where are these bolts and have you got any pictures of these as rite where the steering rack goes throught the floor their are 2 bolts rite next to it but their are none on the other side so im slightly puzzeled on what to do, do i really need to release these bolts? and has anyone got any pictures on where these bolts im ment to be undoing are as i cant get all of my sound deadening out of round my pedals and dont really want to cut a large square out just to find out its in the wrong place
cheers josh
#2
Posted 15 January 2008 - 06:28 PM
does that make sense ?
where the 2 bolts are there is also a plate between them
i haven't got a picture but it will make sense when you look in both foot wells at the same time
#3
Posted 15 January 2008 - 07:09 PM
The other nuts are there, I assure you. They hold the steering rack to the car. You don't have to cut anything or remove your sound deadening. Rover did actually think about one or two aspects of the design over the years, the sound deadening has flaps cut in it already in order to reach these nuts. All you have to do is fold back the carpet far enough and peel back the pre cut sound deadening. If you have a twinpoint Mini with a one piece carpet that will be tricky but the rest is simple.
Slacken all four nuts an equal amount before lowering the column and loosen the column pinch bolt too, then have someone make sure the rack is rotating while you lower away. Set the column where you want it and lightly tighten the column drop bracket bolt. Make sure the rack pinion and column are very closely aligned so that there is no side loading on the pinion from the column bearing on it. When you are sure it is all aligned, tighten it all properly. The four rack securing nuts need to be tightened equally (each pair on the same side should have the same amount of thread visible through them and be equally tight) to avoid putting stress on the rack. Use proper grade replacement bolts, people have a habit of going to B&Q and buying some awful chocolate bolt to replace the high tensile shear bolt they have had to butcher to remove. Ideally use all new shear bolts and nuts. Make sure it is all properly tight and well aligned to avoid future disasters. Avoid letting the weight of the column hang on the rack pinion at any point during this.
#4
Posted 15 January 2008 - 08:22 PM
think ive got it rite but how will i know if ive done it wrong is their anyway to tell ?Yes you need to do this. If you don't your steering column WILL sooner or later loose all control over the direction of the wheels as the spline in the base of it will get ground away over time. I can think of at least two of our members who have found this happening and it is quite terrifying I assure you. You might survive it happening and if you are very lucky so will everyone else unlucky enough to be on the same piece of road at the same time but lets not just rely on luck shall we?
The other nuts are there, I assure you. They hold the steering rack to the car. You don't have to cut anything or remove your sound deadening. Rover did actually think about one or two aspects of the design over the years, the sound deadening has flaps cut in it already in order to reach these nuts. All you have to do is fold back the carpet far enough and peel back the pre cut sound deadening. If you have a twinpoint Mini with a one piece carpet that will be tricky but the rest is simple.
Slacken all four nuts an equal amount before lowering the column and loosen the column pinch bolt too, then have someone make sure the rack is rotating while you lower away. Set the column where you want it and lightly tighten the column drop bracket bolt. Make sure the rack pinion and column are very closely aligned so that there is no side loading on the pinion from the column bearing on it. When you are sure it is all aligned, tighten it all properly. The four rack securing nuts need to be tightened equally (each pair on the same side should have the same amount of thread visible through them and be equally tight) to avoid putting stress on the rack. Use proper grade replacement bolts, people have a habit of going to B&Q and buying some awful chocolate bolt to replace the high tensile shear bolt they have had to butcher to remove. Ideally use all new shear bolts and nuts. Make sure it is all properly tight and well aligned to avoid future disasters. Avoid letting the weight of the column hang on the rack pinion at any point during this.
cheers josh
#5
Posted 15 January 2008 - 08:48 PM
#6
Posted 15 January 2008 - 09:20 PM
sorry to be really really akward again but ive now got it fitted tryed it in a number of positions and cant get it into reverse without lifting my leg up due to me being so lanky legged so im going to take the bracket out again and put it back to how it was so do i still need to undo the bolts in the floor then tighten them back up again when ive got it back in the original hole ?With only the column to rack pinch bolt removed (completely removed) and the upper column clamp loose enough for the column to slide through but everything else still tight you should be able to slide the column up and down the pinion spline fairly easily with the column moving in a nice straight line. If it's binding up much or being forced to one side then it could still need tweaking.
sorry for being a knob about this but its impractical for me to get in and out and get it into reverse and i prefer the bus type feel
cheers josh
#7
Posted 15 January 2008 - 09:22 PM
You might want to try seat extender brackets first before ditching the drop bracket, the two are normally used together.
#8
Posted 15 January 2008 - 09:40 PM
yer thats what i started off with i ordered both and put the seat extender brackets in then i got some cobra classics and the cobra subframes and used them they go back further than the extenders do with normal seats but i just dont like the feel of it sorry to be a right pain in the backside and cheers for your helpYes, you will need to adjust the rack again or the same disaster could happen.
You might want to try seat extender brackets first before ditching the drop bracket, the two are normally used together.

cheers josh
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