31 replies to this topic

[Tomf]

Well im having problems removing my flywheel/clutch setup.

So what do you do to get it off? iv got the puller tool, but it doesnt want to come off with that. is there anything i have to remove before tryin to get it off with the puller?

Has anyone got any tips to get it off?

[Dan]

Have you removed the keyed washer from the crank nose? Try a search for some tips, there are a great many flywheel pulling threads on here.

[Tomf]

yea i did search, but it came up with about 50 odd pages, i had alook through the first ten but nothing was really coming up...

And no i havent removed the washer... how do you get this off?

by the way thanks for the help

[blacktulip]

the washer should just come off with a tap mate, also when you have pressure on the puller, give the clutch bolds a tap with the hammer to send some vibrations down it. dont wind it to much though as you can strip the threads off the puller. clutches can be a real bugger to get off though, i ended up smacking it 30 odd times before it came off but was replacing it so didnt matter if i broke it.

[Tomf]

lol yea i tried with the putter and was smackin the bolts with a hammer but it wasnt budging would the washer have stoped this? ill have another go today and see if i can get it off.

[blacktulip]

isnt the washer to stop the flywheel coming off...?? DAN???? lol

[Dan]

Smack the centre bolt of the puller certainly, DON'T smack the flywheel or any of the bolts threaded into it. Flywheels get hairline cracks very easily and if yours gets one it will shatter at road speeds, this essentially means a fairly large explosion in the engine bay.

The keyed washer is under the flywheel bolt and should just lever out.

[GraemeC]

The flywheel will not come off without removing the keyed washer. Also remember to use the small adapter that fits in the end of the crank tail to protect the threads - if these get damaged by winding the puller bolt directly onto them you'll have a whole heap of problems later!

My method is to tighten the puller bolt as much as possible with a long 1/2" breaker bar and suitable socket. The give the puller bolt a hefty blow or three with a lump hammer. Repeat 3 or 4 times - if the flywheel doesn't come off leave under tension for a while (have a cuppa or two, come back next day etc) then repeat. Beware the flywheel can jump a few feet when it eventually releases if it is this well held on!!!

I have known one not to release at all but once the puller was taken off completely and then put back on and retightened the flywheel came off straight away - never did work out why!

[Tomf]

Cheers for the help ill go down the garage later and see if i can get it off. And then ill order me a lightweight one

Also on a different note, whats the best type of clutch to buy for a road rast engine?

[Guess-Works.com]

orange diaphram and bonded race place

[Tomf]

Oh i have just forgot the its a pre verto clutch.... is this a different way of removal?

[alexcrosse]

just put the flywheel put the flywheel puller on, tighten it until your scared it might shoot across the garage, then tighten it a little more. Then smack the centre bolt. If this doesnt work, heat the flywheel (not the crank) and repeat. If this doest work chances are its welded itself. Dont stand infront of it though.

also, on the 1430 im running a ultralight steel MED flywheel n backplate, orange diaphram and AP bonded rally plate. (i.e. to add some branding to guessworks answer for internet trawling, i can reccomend the ST1 MED package, brilliant guys, balanced for ya, easy!)

Edited by alexcrosse, 08 January 2008 - 12:13 PM.

[minimender]

Also on a different note, whats the best type of clutch to buy for a road rast engine?

I have never had any problems with standard clutches on road tuned engines, put a new 3 part clutch on and it will take a lot of abuse.

[998dave]

When removing one from mine I tightened the flywheel, then with the starter motor out hit the rear of the flywheel with a drift a few times, turned a bit, and repeated, tightening the puller when possible, eventually came off, but was hard work!

Dave

[minimender]

Cheers for the help ill go down the garage later and see if i can get it off. And then ill order me a lightweight one

I heat up the flywheel around where it joins the crank and tap it lightly through the starter hole whilst turning the flywheel.
If it still sticks I heat it up again and chuck a bucket of cold water on it. (not with lightened flywheels)
These are both methods which are not recomended but I've never had a lightened flywheel break even when ragging them to over 7 grand and drag racing.

The lightened flywheel and backplate is for my money one of the best things to spend cash on for a road engine, you will actually feel the difference on the road.

A good idea before refitting is to put valve grinding paste on the end of the crank where the flywheel sits and then place the flywheel on lightly.
Then twist the flywheel back and forth and round and round pulling off slightly after a few turns then doing it again.
Remove flywheel and you will see that the crank surface is dulling and the shine being taken off.
When the crank is dull and the flywheel feels smooth where it touches the crank then you have lapped your flywheel on and next time it has to come off it will vitually fall off.
Clean it all up with parraffin or something then refit dry, that means no oil or anything on the mating surfaces .

Edited by minimender, 08 January 2008 - 12:36 PM.