my mini will run on choke then turn it off and it dies on me as soon as i put it in drive
cuttin out
Started by
The_Mini_Bug
, Feb 05 2004 12:50 AM
12 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 05 February 2004 - 12:50 AM
#2
Posted 05 February 2004 - 06:18 PM
Has it only jus started to do this?
With the choke out, when you put the clutch in, does it slow the engine speed down excesivly or is it an auto?
If its an auto, when was the last time it had an oil change?
What are the plugs and leads like?
Have you checked there is any oil in the dash pot?
With the choke out, when you put the clutch in, does it slow the engine speed down excesivly or is it an auto?
If its an auto, when was the last time it had an oil change?
What are the plugs and leads like?
Have you checked there is any oil in the dash pot?
#3
Posted 06 February 2004 - 12:18 AM
yes its a auto mate checked all them just does it when i put it in drive or somat and if you dow keep threvs up it dies :sad:
#4
Posted 06 February 2004 - 11:38 PM
Try turning the tick-over up. There is a small screw on the throttle were the cable attaches to the carb, try winding it in half a turn and see if it makes a difference, the engine speed should pick up. Keep doin it till the engine is at around 1000 rpm.
#5
Posted 17 February 2004 - 03:52 PM
How long do you keep it on choke for?? because mine does the same but after bout half hour it doesn't need to be on choke..I just thought it was because the engine was cold?? Or am I talking complete poo :wink:
#6
Posted 17 February 2004 - 04:00 PM
Basically the choke increases the fuel/air mixture, so the engine has more fuel to initiate the combustion when its cold. Its a careful balance though, as a mix of throttle and choke when starting can flood the engine, so its best to leave the throttle alone when your starting until its actually fired.
Half an hour with the choke on seems a bit excessive to me, i usually have mine on full for about 2 mins, then reduce it to half and keep that for another 5 mins, then put it in completely. You should only need the choke really when the engine is COLD, as soon as it starts to warm up (i.e starting to climb up the tempertature gauge), reduce the amount of choke, else the engine will run rich and this can eventually cause damage.
Thomas
Half an hour with the choke on seems a bit excessive to me, i usually have mine on full for about 2 mins, then reduce it to half and keep that for another 5 mins, then put it in completely. You should only need the choke really when the engine is COLD, as soon as it starts to warm up (i.e starting to climb up the tempertature gauge), reduce the amount of choke, else the engine will run rich and this can eventually cause damage.
Thomas
#7
Posted 17 February 2004 - 04:02 PM
Sorry Jules, my last message didn't answer your question at all! Sounds like your idle might be a bit slow too, have a play see what you can do! :grin:
Thomas
Thomas
#8
Posted 17 February 2004 - 04:11 PM
Sometimes when I start the car and the choke is on I need to use the throttle because it doesn't start properly.Didn't know it could flood the engine :erm: . Also I do push the choke in half way after about ten mins, but after half an hour and im stuck at traffic lights and the choke is in the engine sounds like its gonna die on me so I pull the choke back out half way again. The Idle is all over the place, I put oil in the dash pot to.
#9
Posted 17 February 2004 - 04:49 PM
Right, I don't think thats anything to do with the carb, altho setting the idle high (or pulling the choke out) will stop it happening, but it won't cure whats really the problem. There's something called 'dwell' on ignition systems, which is basically the angle that the distributor rotor arm cam lobes keeps the points closed for. On 4 cylinder engines its about 60deg, my Clubby is 57deg (it depends on your dizzy). If this setting is incorrect (it can be measured using a dwell meter, usually present on automotive multimeters), then the engine will run rough, and sometimes cut out when idling.
Its a very easy job to measure and adjust the dwell, but it does involve having the dizzy cap off and playing about with the points so if your not very confident then a decent garage should be able to handle it for you. As well as checking the dwell ask them to make sure the timing is correct, as a mixture of bad timing and wrong dwell angle will make poor old engine splutter cough and bang all over the place!
Hope that helps! :grin:
Thomas
Its a very easy job to measure and adjust the dwell, but it does involve having the dizzy cap off and playing about with the points so if your not very confident then a decent garage should be able to handle it for you. As well as checking the dwell ask them to make sure the timing is correct, as a mixture of bad timing and wrong dwell angle will make poor old engine splutter cough and bang all over the place!
Hope that helps! :grin:
Thomas
#10
Posted 17 February 2004 - 04:59 PM
Hmm, think I will leave that one to the garage, sounds too technical for me!!
But thanks for all the advice and i'll keep you update!! :grin:
But thanks for all the advice and i'll keep you update!! :grin:
#11
Posted 17 February 2004 - 05:45 PM
same here im not gonna do engine work any thing else but that
#12
Posted 17 February 2004 - 06:52 PM
Sounds to me like your running too lean and that your dashpot spring isnt the right one. You best bet would be to get it tuned on a rolling road, this should cost around £35 plus parts, but when its done, its well worth the money!!
#13
Posted 18 February 2004 - 10:43 AM
Yeah I was thinking of getting it serviced even though the person I bought it off said it had been recently, dont trust her garage, and then get it on the rolling road and she what she is doing. Hopefully I should have her running sweeter then!!
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