27 replies to this topic

[Pavel]

Someone told me a while ago on here that it's easy to make a cone compressor tool, using a M14 threaded bolt or something?

Could anyone explain how to make one?

Cheers

[998dave]

oooh, sounds interesting, I want to know too!

[Purple Tom]

i'll get my home made one out in the morning and have a look for you dude

[dklawson]

You need a length of pipe, some heavy washers, a length of M14 threaded rod and at least 3 nuts to fit the rod.

I welded mine together for safety but you can risk not doing this... but be careful. Weld a large, thick fender washer on each end of an 8-10" length of pipe about 1" OD. The fender washers need to be thick and at least 2" in diameter. This will give you what looks like a pipe with a flange on each end. Cut a piece of threaded rod about 16" long. Put two nuts on one of the cut ends and JAM them together tightly using two wrenches. Run the third (free) nut up the shaft, stopping about 2" from the jam nuts. Oil the threaded rod and follow the free nut with a thrust washer. Insert all of this through the pipe.

In the engine compartment, remove any of the cover plates or electrical bits blocking your access to the tower bolts and the rubber cone access hole. Place the pipe assembly down on the bulkhead, threading the M14 rod into the cone. Make sure it's well engaged... thread it at least 10 turns into the cone. Oil the threaded rod (if you didn't do it earlier) and run the free nut down against the thrust washer which should be resting on top of the pipe assembly. Hold the jam nuts with one wrench while tightening the free running nut down on the thrust washer. That's it.

Go slow, work carefully, wear safety glasses. NEVER put your face above a cone compressor (store bought or homemade). You can jack up the front wheel for the cone you're working on. JACK UP THE WHEEL, not the corner of the car. You want the lower suspension arm compressing the cone to minimize the work the cone compressor is doing.

[mighty_mini]

i did this too. better than paying £30 but i would say dont use it too much if the rod is cheap. as i made two, and my first one started to crack im sure of it.

[Guess-Works.com]

Great until you have an imperial threaded cone :nugget:

[Pickup76]

Great until you have an imperial threaded cone :nugget:

yeh done that, stupid minis! both of mine are on different systems really annoying.

[roberts]

i wouldnt risk it!!

they because it it fails, yourll scratch ya wing!

they build up a hell of a tension!

[Jammy]

Yea, at least If you got one from MiniSpares and it fails you have a chance of getting them pay for any damage caused, mayb!?

[Guess-Works.com]

I have a Sykes & Pickavant one ( had it years ) which has served me well.



Actually same goes for the Flywheel puller, I know I've had that for 15+ years.

[dklawson]

Regarding the homemade tools failing....

First: Notice I mentioned jacking up the wheel/suspension arm for the cone you want to remove. This reduces the work for either a homemade or bought compressor.

Second: Threaded rod is available in different grades. Buy good quality rod. For DIN standard stuff, buy rod rated at least grade 8.8... 10.9 if you can find it. For the imperial stuff, buy grade B-7 if you can find it, it's tougher than grade 2.

Third: Don't expect wherever you bought a professional tool to do anything more than direct you to the place who made it. If you buy a tool from MiniSpares and it causes you damage, they'll send you to the manufacturer.

Well executed homemade tools don't have to be a compromise or unsafe if you DON'T cut corners.

by the way, if you have a Mini old enough to still have imperial (1/2-20) threads in the cones... expect the threads to be full of rust and crud making a cone compressor a mute point.

[newenglandmini]

Doug, I have determined that my rear cones have 1/2" AF threads.  I presume that they are original.  I've inspected the rear cones and they have clean threads.  I assume the front cones are 1/2" AF as well.  Since the Minispares economy tool is compatible only with metric cones, I plan to make a copy of your tool.  Your description is clear, but I would appreciate your posting a picture for reference.

 

 DSCN4821.JPG   53.36K   44 downloads

Edited by newenglandmini, 12 January 2014 - 10:49 PM.

[Cooperman]

I bought a garage full of old Mini bits and there was an original UNF BMC/Churchill Tower Tool in one of the boxes. Result.

[dklawson]

The early cone thread will be 1/2 UNF (1/2-20),  "AF" is a term typically applied to the head of a bolt or nut (Across Flats).

 

I'll look for my cone compressor tomorrow evening and try and post a picture for you.  In the meantime, you may want to review the old thread linked below and the pictures of the homemade spring compressor shown in the July 17th post there.

http://www.theminifo...crunchie/page-2

[newenglandmini]

Thx Doug.  The link is sufficient...same design as yours.  One additional question.  I'm removing my front subframe intact (with powertrain) and I'm going to disassemble the front suspension to replace all of the bushings and joints.  Will I still need the cone tool to replace the cones?