694 replies to this topic

[Kam]

I've been trying to get hold of the guy who did the map but he's not been on the civic forum for a few months so can't reach him. So what I have done, all be it a bit crude is to bypass the ecu for now and have the solenoid on a switch in the cab. So when I'm all up to temp and have the right speed and revs I want I mash the button and away we go

I forgot to say Chris, thats £450 flat for a mapping session at Track n road based on Watsons map straight out of the box, if you like the word lean then that helps

I'm not sure what they do for honda ecu's so if you cant get hold of the guy on the civic forum then give them a call and see what they say?

I'm glad you got a button mashing solution but thats so eighties!

[ginger_monkey]

I'm back! Thought it's been way too long since doing a post on here. Not a huge amount has been happening to the car as it's off the road for the winter. I have me a nice 306 as winter run around. Got it for 300 notes taxed and tested.

So the mini is all wrapped up inside the garage out of the weather. I did manage to find someone to map my car which is by my folks place in Wales but have a few things to play around with before it goes there like get a better rad set up, sort out why the fan is not working so on and so forth. I have wanted to change the back box for a while as it's too loud and wanted something straight out rather than DTM so I went and bought a Blue Flame bike can. Retail about £260 but brand new on ebay £49. Bargain. So it was not too cold today and I thought the rain will hold out for a while so off came the back box and link pipe and out came the welder and grinder. Here is the link pipe reworked.


Not too much trouble doing that so fitted it all back on and held the can on with some cable ties for now and here is what she looks and sounds like. Maybe not as quiet as I hoped



My new Blue Flame can

I still have to take off the manifold and sort out a few leaks then it'll all get fitted fully.

Edited by ginger_monkey, 18 November 2010 - 04:34 PM.

[Chris C]

Mmmm you know how I feel about bike mufflers. Sexy!

[Kam]

Blimey! Thought you'd emigrated again Chris!

Have you got an iphone with the decibal meter app, might be worth checking out the boom boom coming out of that thing

[ginger_monkey]

I can get an app so maybe I'll sort that one out for ya KAM

[yousmeg]

woah just read this whole thread... nice job the car looks really good

get some vids up of the VTEC

does it give the boot you thought it would when it kicks in?

[ginger_monkey]

woah just read this whole thread... nice job the car looks really good

get some vids up of the VTEC

does it give the boot you thought it would when it kicks in?

Cheers mate. The VTEC still aint working but have a few ideas on that. When I get it back on the road in the new year and get it on a RR and it runs sweet then I'll get some vids up for you all.

[ginger_monkey]

Well it's all fun fun fun when the car is off the road. I don't think it likes not being driven. Went out today and tried starting her. Made a real bad noise like something stuck and rattling around the aux belt. Turned her off straight away and lifted the front. Nothing there so tried another start, same noise!?! So I took out the plugs and ran it without compression. All nice, thinking maybe there was moisture in the bores from the weather being so bad. Put it back together and started her up. Was a little rough but then sorted itself out. Ran nice for a bit then I noticed a leak again. Coming from behind the engine, passenger side. Managed to get in there after a bit of shouting at how little space there is to get at stuff (been a while so had forgotten how tight it really is) and found this. I think it's the weep hole for the water pump which is really crap as I changed the water pump when doing the belt and followed the Haynes to the letter with the right torque settings and everything. Will have to pull off the cover at some point and check to see if the mounting bolts have come loose. Might have a bolt rattling around by the belt. Bad times. If this isn't the weep hole can someone tell me why water is coming out of it before I block it off out of sight out of mind


and a mirror to help see the hole in question

[ginger_monkey]

Now the snow has finally gone I can get some stuff done on the mini. I finally got my act together and bought a tacho. Thought no point in it sitting nice and snug in the box so off with the dash. A bit of cutting and chopping of the old tacho housing and here she is.

From

To



Can't wait to get it all back in a switched on. Is gonna look lovely. The tacho comes with inbuilt shift light and top rev recall. Which is cool as I was thinking of down the line putting in a shift light.

Have taken the front end off and is sitting nice on the roof at the moment. Have taken off the rad and exhaust manifold for some work. Am gonna cut the frame so I can fit a bigger rad in. I am determined to fit the honda alloy race rad I have got so watch this space I am going to take off the alt and bracket so I can fettle it and also get at my timing belt cover so I can fit the water pump bolt which I think has come off as I said in the last post. KAM did you have the same problem??? It came off on the rollers didn't it???


Anyway I have taken all the dash parts off so I can get at the wiring as it's been bugging me.



I am trying to convince myself to part with cash I don't have and get an OMEX ecu from these lovely people OMEX website It's a good bit of kit for a good bit of money. I think I'm gonna go down the route of getting the ECU and part made wiring loom from them with the crank sensor. Then send my crank pulley off to Jeff at Watsons engineering to get the toothed wheel fitted to it. Get the crank sensor bracket and the Ford DIS pack and bracket with blank from him too (if it's not cheaper from OMEX). This way I don't have to mill the pulley myself. I'm more of a fan of the OMEX kit rather than the DTA as it's look like it's a lot more usable and future proof as they say. As I will be fitting a turbo in the future this has the best options for me. Will be looking at over a grand I think with the rolling road which hurts me to say but it's a means to an end.

[paul190181]

looking realy good , hopeing the parts turn up for mine soon , realy want to make a start , you thought of using specialist components ecu and their loom because you can run coil sticks rather than a coilpack and it frees up a bit more room , plust their good value for money and realy helpful

[Kam]

Good to see you back on it Chris

Those dials look lush, I like the way you kept the center mini one though, nice touch

As for the bolt, the one that came off mine was the single bolt that holds the back of the timing belt cover in place, wasn't thread locked.......also been looking at my water pump again.......





Its got the same hole, you can just about see the casting for it going towards the center where the cog is, I think its there to warn you if yours start to leak but also to direct the water away from the cog bearing thats there

But why yours would leak I don't know, I'm pretty sure you replaced this with the belt at the time (as I bought my stuff from the same place) so maybe the gasket you laid down has failed or something, or might just be a duff pump, is strange though

[ginger_monkey]

There was that bad noise when starting up the other month which makes me think the bolt has come adrift. But time will tell when I get around to getting that cover off. Hopefully get it done on Monday if the wiring doesn't take over me again.

[Kam]

The bolt (that came off mine) only holds the rear part of the timing cover on behind the belt, you didn't remove yours did you? I thought you only took the two front sections off when you got them painted and changed the belt?

Also if that bolt does come off trust me you would know, when it drops it can only go one way......whichever way the belt is going! which means it will lodge itself somewhere and get trapped stripping the belt along the way! I know its a PITA mate to take off but you should take the water pump off and investigate, and if that bolt is still in there - take it out and thread lock it!

Also I think I've finally worked it out?



Your door cards make a bit more sense now!

[ginger_monkey]

Haha damb it found out. You should see what I was gonna do with my old van when I turned it into a surf bus. Was gonna be nothing but furr all ove the place

[ginger_monkey]

Well I took off the cam belt cover and had a looksee. There is no bolt missing that i can see from the pump so now I am confused. What the hell was making that noise??? The belt looks fine and nothing dropped out the casing so all looks good. I have a new water pump seal on order anyway as that water leak might be coming from that and so will get that changed later in the month as Honda have them on back order. Wires are down to a minimum for now so am just waiting to order my ECU stuff and see how that goes.
Thanks to KAM for the pm regarding a thread on 16v forum. It has now proven to me that cutting the subframe is the best option to fit the rad in so when I feel brave enough I'm gonna get the angle grinder out and hack away at it. Pics to follow to hopefully see it work fine and not go horribly wrong.