694 replies to this topic

[ginger_monkey]

Kam the rad is off a polo G40. Was the smallest one I could find on a website that had loads with measurments. It's not a custom so changing it for another wouldn't be too bad. I might get the engine running with this rad and then work on finding a smaller one. As for the driveshaft i have got the engine in near enough the position I want which gives me a good 5mm and maybe a bit more clearance. I am clear of the steering rack now too so that's a bonus.
I did some mods to the servo bracket. After alot of advice from 16v forum that confirmed my thoughts that the way I had it would put too much stress on the brake lever. This way I have it like original just a bit wider. You can see what I did from the pictures. Cut it in half then got busy with a welder. Still needs a tidy up and paint but I think it's there for now.



I have connected the gear selector and tightened up the oil filter and sandwhich plate so hopefully that woun't leak when it has oil in it. All the bottom arms, tie bars, steering rack etc are now tight.

Also been looking at the accelerator cable. What have people been using as I'm thinking about using the original? Gonna cut a hole in the bulkhead the same as the honda and then it'll fit straight on. About the right length too so as not to have too much looping around the engine bay.

Edited by ginger_monkey, 11 February 2010 - 11:19 PM.

[MateyTheMini]

Haha! Brilliant Project

I like the flipfront idea my mum had hers as a flipfront and it got plenty of lucks at shows

[ginger_monkey]

Cheers MateyTheMini the flip front is soooo good for access when working on the engine. I'd like to go back to a standard front but not gonna put up with no access so the flip stays

I'm getting fed up with wires now. Keep going back to it and it keeps getting more and more of a birds nest. Might have to get one of my lecky friends to help me out soon. But i think it's all connected to a point so might be able to get some power on it and see what happens soon. Just need to find a few more conection points on the engine as i have plugs not going to anything at the moment. Also need to get some clamps to fit the new battery cable to the fuse box.
Here it is at the moment

and here are some of the plugs i can't find as of yet down the back of the engine. Anyone want to help me out on this one and tell me where these go

Also been working on the coolant pipes. Just seeing where everything goes. A but confuzled but it's coming together. I have these pipes and I know one goes to the rocker cover but then I have the other ends. One is just the other end to the air pipe from the rocker but don't know where it goes and the other comes out the block by the top hose and now don't know where it goes. Again anyone help me there?


so this is where I'm at witht the bay. It's getting tight in there

Had a quick look at the brake lines before coming home. How do people connect and route their brake lines and how do they link it to the braided hoses. Mine seam very close to the drive shaft, and the subframe T piece doesn't fit right. pictures and answers on the back of a postcard to GINGERMONKEY@DOESN'THAVEACLUE.PLEASEHELP/WHIMPER

Edited by ginger_monkey, 12 February 2010 - 07:06 PM.

[ginger_monkey]

Not much progress as I've been working but got an air filter fitted. Not the best for getting cold air to it but should sound wicked. It's soo tight that it's pretty much touching everthing around it. had to modify the accelerator cable bracket so it would fit.

[captainjack15]

Why not put it down near the offside wheel?? Run the pipe under the dizzy and it'll go straight down to the wheel. Perfect

I can't find a decent picture of mine

[ginger_monkey]

I didn't really want it near the wheel as I'm worried it'll get water in it on the days where we have bad rain. One of the roads I go to work down is really bad for standing water and big puddles and streams form on the road alot. This is a safer option for now.

[captainjack15]

Oh right Ok fair enough.

I'll take photos anyways Just in case if comes over foggy

[billyboy83]

The plug (green with four wires and one big white wires are for the alt as on the hondas the alt is at the back ogf the engine.

With my brake lines i have a wilwood pedalbox but makes no difrence i put my t peace like what you would use on the rear subby on the cross member on the bulk head then run a pipe to each wheel. i will try and get some pictures in the next couple days as i have started ti tidy my car up for getting it finished now.

[ginger_monkey]

The plug (green with four wires and one big white wires are for the alt as on the hondas the alt is at the back ogf the engine.

With my brake lines i have a wilwood pedalbox but makes no difrence i put my t peace like what you would use on the rear subby on the cross member on the bulk head then run a pipe to each wheel. i will try and get some pictures in the next couple days as i have started ti tidy my car up for getting it finished now.

Cheers Billyboy83. I'm waiting on my alt bracket and then can get that connected up. It's cause the Alt is not on I was getting confused as there seemed to be plugs going nowhere All good now though. I'm thinking about going down the route for the T piece from the rear subby at the front and just running lines from there to the braided hoses. Been asking around but what size unions do I need for this T piece. Is it 3/8unf?

Here are my brakes I finished today. Did of a pain in the butt to refurb. Anyone else had their bleed nipples sticking out so far ? They are bottoming out so will do the job just doesn't look quite right to me.

[wassupcrew]

gingermonkey, can you give me a clue as to how much of the wiring loom you removed? i just took the loom out of my civic ready to transplant and as yours it is massive! i know i can get rid of all the srs stuff in yellow wrapping, but what else can go? also great way to do the cluch master cylinder. i think i might copy that!

[captainjack15]

Nice looking brakes mate

Mine have a nut between the nipple and the actual caliper... Perhaps that's what you're missing?

Why aren't they orange?? Or blue for that matter??

[ginger_monkey]

I thought orange or blue calipers would look cheap and tacky so opted for yellow as I've seen many different cars even top end cars with yellow calipers. Fair enough they might be massive brembo brakes and not turbo 4 pots but you get the idea

wassupcrew I removed all the internal stuff like acc, radio, lighting looms and stuff I'm not going to use. I have to say I'm not sure if I've gone too far as I haven't turned it on yet but should be ok It's hard work and a big mess but once alot of it has gone it should start making more sense. I'm finding the mini loom more of a hassle at the moment. As for the clutch I've been told different stories on how hard the pedal will be. Some say it's fine others say it's too hard. I'm gonna give it a try and see how it is. If it's no good then am gonna have to spend the money on a 14mm master. But it's alot of money

[wassupcrew]

I thought orange or blue calipers would look cheap and tacky so opted for yellow as I've seen many different cars even top end cars with yellow calipers. Fair enough they might be massive brembo brakes and not turbo 4 pots but you get the idea

wassupcrew I removed all the internal stuff like acc, radio, lighting looms and stuff I'm not going to use. I have to say I'm not sure if I've gone too far as I haven't turned it on yet but should be ok It's hard work and a big mess but once alot of it has gone it should start making more sense. I'm finding the mini loom more of a hassle at the moment. As for the clutch I've been told different stories on how hard the pedal will be. Some say it's fine others say it's too hard. I'm gonna give it a try and see how it is. If it's no good then am gonna have to spend the money on a 14mm master. But it's alot of money

thanks for that ginger. your car looks great. mines a d15 im putting in. hopefully if will be mounted and started this week because i got the week off. why should the pedal be hard? if its the standard master and slave cylinder it should be fine. the clutch in the d15 i just stripped was lovely, so i cant see how it would be different transplanting it in to a mini

Edited by wassupcrew, 22 February 2010 - 09:06 PM.

[ginger_monkey]

I think the main thing is the pivot point of the pedal in the mini. It's not got such a throw as the honda so making it alot harder to push. At least I think this is the reason

[Kam]

People have tried all combos, standard mini master, standard pedals, standard honda master, honda master with mini push rod etc etc but not only is the pedal hard (usable but hard) you also get an overthrow on the clutch due to the bore size, the one which Mr Monkey mentioned is the one I picked it up aswell



Model is CP2623-88PRT115, check out the spec on the AP site, PRM is metric, PRT is imperial Clicky

Above was found by a guy over on 16v so credit to him, and used on his mini with an uprated clutch and was nice and smooth compared with using a .75 master (same as mini) on his which was more like an off/on switch, he also tried a 0.625 and that was pretty much the same as the .75

I got mine from BG for about £100, available from demon tweeks aswell, not cheap but if its tried and tested then thats good enough for me