694 replies to this topic

[ginger_monkey]

Cheers guy it's good fun but long days. Kam I think the bulkhead box will be done last. I want to get it running with everything on so i know there is no more holes or clearance problems before making it all nice and shiney. But as for the drive flanges. Go for it you know you want to.
Today was hard work but a good day. She's on all fours (just the way we like them) and got her out in the fresh air for a bit. Then up on a ramp to sort out the gear linkage. Gear linkage is done but just needs welding up tomorrow as my welder ran out of gas. I knew it would happen as soon as i took it up there to get things done So as it was on the ramp the fuel line was put in place. 8mm copper fuel pipe from top of front subby to just into the rear then it's gonna be flexi from there to all the rest like pump and engine.





I love working in the club with a ramp. Much better than crawling around on the floor



Do have some issues with the steering rack. Havent moved it from it's original position but have given it a good working with the grinder. have some more countersunk bolts from a local place that will get fitted and when the rack comes out next time might work on getting it sat closer into the floor. Anyone got any handy tips for this little job??



Tight at the front too



But tried the front on after all this to see how much room there was for the rad. Not very much that is for sure. My rad will not fit so will have to look around for more. Any recommendations?? Also the exhaust manifold I had to try ain't gonna fit so will have to source another one to cut up



as we left her tonight

[Kam]

Tight at the front too

Not sure how much more engine movement you need to do yet but you will need some countersunks to replace them slave cylinder bolts. Also it might just be the close up picture but that slave looks well manky!!

I think you need a vertical grind on the rack aswell, I'm sure thats what it says in the paperwork that comes with the frame? Maybe shave a tad from the diff housing aswell?

[ginger_monkey]

didn't realise I had to countersink the slave bolts too. Will look into that. yeah the slave cylinder is a bit mankey, I'll either replace it or rub it down and turn it blue like my drive flanges

[Spenner]

Pucka job Mr Monkey

Give us a shout when you need the flaring tool and a hand with the brakes mucka!!!

[ginger_monkey]

cheers mate. I'm on shift at the moment but let me have a play around with this dam loom and start getting stuff together for the exhaust and rads and I'll give you a shout and we'll hit the brake lines

[GreaseMonkey]

Looks like a lot of fun

[billyboy83]

Hi mate the gear box side of your engine looks way to low. engine needs to be leveled up more by the looks of it.

[ginger_monkey]

Hi mate the gear box side of your engine looks way to low. engine needs to be leveled up more by the looks of it.

yeah I'm gonna get the engine position sorted out soon and get the mounts done up. Wanted to get all the drive shafts in and wheels on so i had a true postion to start from and check clearances all round. Hopefully it'll give me a bit more room and i can clear the steering rack.

[Joloke08]

Its looking Great Chris itll soon be with Rob Getting Sprayed
Have you figured out where you are putting the rad yet?

If your staying with the standard length Front its gunna be a tight fit even without the rad

Cant wait to hear that running

Huggz
Jodie

[captainjack15]

Nice one Chris!

Lots of progress! Liking it!

[ginger_monkey]

Cheers captain. The rad is on order. I did a mockup of it the other day using a box i had and it sits in an alright position. Should be enough room to get a fan in behind even if it's two smaller ones.


Got a bit done since last time, The servo is in and sits in a good place. Got that linked up to the pedal and works sweet Also got the clutch master cylinder in. I modded it to fit the mini pedal by cutting the rod and welding the mini one to the honda so it fits. Here's some pictures to show you what I mean.



and the final product



Here it is in situ. The clutch reservoir is in the position I want just need to make up a bracket and the fuel surge thingy is near enough where it's gonna be. You can see the link between the brake pedal arm and the servo link. I just need to get some polyurethane washers to help it move and that'll be all good.



and here we are showing how close the brake pipes are. Not bad.



Also finished off the gear linkage. Welded and sprayed and ready to fit

[Kam]

Thats some work you done there! Coming along nicely, love the clutch master mod

Does that clear the headlight behind? Gotta be sitting right on it isn't it?

[ginger_monkey]

Thats some work you done there! Coming along nicely, love the clutch master mod

Does that clear the headlight behind? Gotta be sitting right on it isn't it?

Yeah it does clear the headlight just. but I need the real one in place to get a true feel for how it fits. Might have to have it on a slant.

As with the clutch I've alreay been told that it'll give a hard pedal! I only finished it a few hours ago. I thought this was the way to do it as the mini master would give a real hard almost unusable pedal.

[ginger_monkey]

Got a rad the other day and gave it a trial fit into the mini. Not a great fit. If I have it with the hose connections on the NS it pushes the rad out into the grille alot and if I have them the other side they are too close to the wheel. Might have another play but might have to get something else





Got the fuel filter fitted up in the rear subframe. Some fuel hose running to it so just need to flare the end of the copper pipe and can connect it all up. Also the loom is nearly ready for a trial. It's not pretty but lets see if it works before I worry about that. Gonna take the engine out once more to fettle a few things then when it goes back in I'm gonna fit it and see if it works.

[Kam]

Mr Monkey - the mock up you did on the rad didnt look quite right but I know you had already ordered it though, who did you use to make it and can they chop off a bit and re-weld? Just a thought?



On the middle shaft, is yours tapered?



If its not then you may need to get it machined down for some extra clearance around the rear diff, also if you do have the old original honda mounts somewhere then chuck them on and see how it measures up then?

I'm using the original mounts but mines a B16a2 though?