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Mini Cooper Mpi - Oil Light Comes On At Idle When Engibe Is Warm


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#1 miles_stuart

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Posted 19 October 2007 - 07:04 PM

Hi, i have a 2000 Rover Mini Cooper MPi. After about 30 mins of driving and when the engine is warm, the oil warning light flickers when idling. It goes off as soon as you rev or pull away. I have just had an oil changed and this has not made any difference. Any ideas what the problem is? Also, should I still be the car in this condition?

Edited by miles_stuart, 19 October 2007 - 07:06 PM.


#2 Sprocket

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Posted 20 October 2007 - 05:27 PM

Check the oil presure relief valve is free of crud, its on the front of the block behind the starter motor so you will have to remove it

If that is clear and not sticking, the engine needs an overhaul, it may just be the oil pump, but chances are its wear on the crank as well.

#3 sondringen

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Posted 01 March 2008 - 06:33 PM

Check the oil presure relief valve is free of crud, its on the front of the block behind the starter motor so you will have to remove it

If that is clear and not sticking, the engine needs an overhaul, it may just be the oil pump, but chances are its wear on the crank as well.

Hi

I have had the same problem with my `94
I had the oil valve changed, but it didnt work. Then there came some noises and the now the oil lamp lights even at 2000 rpm.
Then i decided to change oil, but when i took the plug out, these parts sat on the magnet www.villanger.net/hmmm.JPG
I dont know what to do... I believe i will buy a refurbished engine... :)

Any opinions?

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#4 Ethel

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Posted 01 March 2008 - 07:03 PM

Looks like broken up needle roller bearing - that suggests gearbox or transfer gear failure to me. you're engine may be ok if the debris has just trashed the oil pump.

#5 sondringen

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Posted 01 March 2008 - 07:23 PM

Thanks. So perhaps it isnt so bad as i thought...

A little background information:
For a while i had some problems to place the gearshifter in 3.
Suddenly, one day, it made some noises when i accelerated or "pushed" it. After a while it made a lot of noise as i pushed the clutch pedal in and out, just when it engaged. I drove a few miles and stopped. After that it was better, and the noise disappeared.
But after a few days the oil indicator problem appeared, and its just getting worse untill today, when i noticed the metal pieces.

I think the engine runs nice when its cold, and it revs OK even if its warm.

Edited by sondringen, 01 March 2008 - 07:37 PM.


#6 Sprocket

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Posted 01 March 2008 - 11:31 PM

If you have been driving when the oil light is on or has been on and noises coming from the gearbox/engine, the whole engine and gearbox now needs a rebuild. Probibly looking at a rebore, new pistons crank regrind, new bearings and ofcourse a new oil pump. Not to mention the rebiult/ replacement gearbox

The swarf from the carnage will have embedded into the piston skirts and wrecked the bores, the oil pump will be goosed. The crank will be worn and the bearings wiped out, with the lack of oil causing metal to metal contact.

If the oil light ever comes on, stop and diagnose the problem, you have a better chance of salvaging something out of it, instead of having to replace everything.

The oil light is not to be taken lightly, and dodgey switches are few and far between on a car this age.

Dont waste any time thinking its this or that, Its a full rebuild job!! :)

#7 Sprocket

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Posted 01 March 2008 - 11:37 PM

The 'swarf' you pulled out of the engine is the idler gear bearing, there also looks like there is a tooth off a gear, probibly the transfer gears. The gearbox itself may be salvageble, but will need a complete rebuild. Complete set of new transfer gears is on the cards.

#8 sondringen

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Posted 02 March 2008 - 12:10 PM

The 'swarf' you pulled out of the engine is the idler gear bearing, there also looks like there is a tooth off a gear, probibly the transfer gears. The gearbox itself may be salvageble, but will need a complete rebuild. Complete set of new transfer gears is on the cards.


Thanks.
So you think the engine could be ok? Perhaps it would pay to get a refurbished gearbox instead of rebuilding it?
I have to get my mechanic to do it, as i have no equipment to do it myself, so it gets expensive quite fast...

Edited by sondringen, 02 March 2008 - 12:14 PM.


#9 nev_payne

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Posted 02 March 2008 - 12:15 PM

I was getting similarly sized bits coming out on my oil changes as well... and my engines out for a full rebuild.

#10 Sprocket

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Posted 02 March 2008 - 06:32 PM

The 'swarf' you pulled out of the engine is the idler gear bearing, there also looks like there is a tooth off a gear, probibly the transfer gears. The gearbox itself may be salvageble, but will need a complete rebuild. Complete set of new transfer gears is on the cards.


Thanks.
So you think the engine could be ok? Perhaps it would pay to get a refurbished gearbox instead of rebuilding it?
I have to get my mechanic to do it, as i have no equipment to do it myself, so it gets expensive quite fast...


No, if you read my other post I explained why there.

The engine will need a full rebuild. You may be luck in that the pistons may not have picked up, But I doubt it.

#11 sondringen

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Posted 02 March 2008 - 06:46 PM

OK.
I didnt see your post.. But it seems reasonable.
I think ill go for a new engine...




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