Edited by miles_stuart, 19 October 2007 - 07:06 PM.

Mini Cooper Mpi - Oil Light Comes On At Idle When Engibe Is Warm
#1
Posted 19 October 2007 - 07:04 PM
#2
Posted 20 October 2007 - 05:27 PM
If that is clear and not sticking, the engine needs an overhaul, it may just be the oil pump, but chances are its wear on the crank as well.
#3
Posted 01 March 2008 - 06:33 PM
HiCheck the oil presure relief valve is free of crud, its on the front of the block behind the starter motor so you will have to remove it
If that is clear and not sticking, the engine needs an overhaul, it may just be the oil pump, but chances are its wear on the crank as well.
I have had the same problem with my `94
I had the oil valve changed, but it didnt work. Then there came some noises and the now the oil lamp lights even at 2000 rpm.
Then i decided to change oil, but when i took the plug out, these parts sat on the magnet www.villanger.net/hmmm.JPG
I dont know what to do... I believe i will buy a refurbished engine...

Any opinions?
Attached Files
#4
Posted 01 March 2008 - 07:03 PM
#5
Posted 01 March 2008 - 07:23 PM
A little background information:
For a while i had some problems to place the gearshifter in 3.
Suddenly, one day, it made some noises when i accelerated or "pushed" it. After a while it made a lot of noise as i pushed the clutch pedal in and out, just when it engaged. I drove a few miles and stopped. After that it was better, and the noise disappeared.
But after a few days the oil indicator problem appeared, and its just getting worse untill today, when i noticed the metal pieces.
I think the engine runs nice when its cold, and it revs OK even if its warm.
Edited by sondringen, 01 March 2008 - 07:37 PM.
#6
Posted 01 March 2008 - 11:31 PM
The swarf from the carnage will have embedded into the piston skirts and wrecked the bores, the oil pump will be goosed. The crank will be worn and the bearings wiped out, with the lack of oil causing metal to metal contact.
If the oil light ever comes on, stop and diagnose the problem, you have a better chance of salvaging something out of it, instead of having to replace everything.
The oil light is not to be taken lightly, and dodgey switches are few and far between on a car this age.
Dont waste any time thinking its this or that, Its a full rebuild job!!

#7
Posted 01 March 2008 - 11:37 PM
#8
Posted 02 March 2008 - 12:10 PM
The 'swarf' you pulled out of the engine is the idler gear bearing, there also looks like there is a tooth off a gear, probibly the transfer gears. The gearbox itself may be salvageble, but will need a complete rebuild. Complete set of new transfer gears is on the cards.
Thanks.
So you think the engine could be ok? Perhaps it would pay to get a refurbished gearbox instead of rebuilding it?
I have to get my mechanic to do it, as i have no equipment to do it myself, so it gets expensive quite fast...
Edited by sondringen, 02 March 2008 - 12:14 PM.
#9
Posted 02 March 2008 - 12:15 PM
#10
Posted 02 March 2008 - 06:32 PM
The 'swarf' you pulled out of the engine is the idler gear bearing, there also looks like there is a tooth off a gear, probibly the transfer gears. The gearbox itself may be salvageble, but will need a complete rebuild. Complete set of new transfer gears is on the cards.
Thanks.
So you think the engine could be ok? Perhaps it would pay to get a refurbished gearbox instead of rebuilding it?
I have to get my mechanic to do it, as i have no equipment to do it myself, so it gets expensive quite fast...
No, if you read my other post I explained why there.
The engine will need a full rebuild. You may be luck in that the pistons may not have picked up, But I doubt it.
#11
Posted 02 March 2008 - 06:46 PM
I didnt see your post.. But it seems reasonable.
I think ill go for a new engine...
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