Wiring Klaxon Horn
#1
Posted 19 October 2007 - 06:11 PM
I'll start at the beginning... Are you sitting comfortably?
First off, I bought myself (& my Mini of course) a present off eBay:
Then I bought a wiring kit from my local Motorists Centre (Wendover Motor Spares, the legend that is):
The relay has 4 connectors (I don't know what I'm meant to call them) numbered as follows:
Could somebody please advise what happens from now, the wiring kit came with instructions for lights but I'm assured it is all usable for the horn. I want to use a brake test switch to operate it if I can get one, not the on-off switch that came with the wiring kit (waiting for someone to tell me if they have a spare they can give me tomorrow). I intend to mount the horn under the bonnet somewhere, have to find something flat to bolt it to though
Please help, with helpful instructions (and diagrams? ) asap
Or failing that pop round my house tomorrow and help me out I will of course help! I want to do it myself but I seem to be all out of faith
I'm not very good at making tea (don't drink it) but can ask mum to show you where the tea-making facilities are
#2
Posted 19 October 2007 - 06:15 PM
#3
Posted 19 October 2007 - 06:17 PM
#4
Posted 19 October 2007 - 06:29 PM
I cant remember what order, but its something like....
RELAY
- High amp wire from battery to relay. (i see you have 17amp green wire, that should be ok i believe.) *i normally get an in-line fuse holder on here too.....try something like THIS - LINK*
- Earth wire from relay to car body/engine/somewhere...
- Postive wire from relay to horn
- Wire from relay to switch
SWITCH
- One of the switch terminals will be for the light on the switch, cant tell which from the pic.
- Other switch terminal to a low fused source.....plug it onto the right hand side of fuse box. Which terminal you connect it on will give different fuse ratings and different options. *EDIT: Looking at the kit you bought, the thin wire with the fuse holder might go here, as the wire isnt thick enough for the high amps the battery supplies*
HORN
- Earth wire from horn to body/engine/somewhere....
Low fused source details
Key
2- top lights, reversing lights, indicator flasher unit, heated rear window. (Only works with ign on)
4- horn, hazard indicators, brake failure light.
6- heater/wipers
8- side and tail lights (Always live)
Depending how you wish the horn to work, you will need to choose how its powered. If you want it to work only with the ign on or car running, run a wire from no 2 on the diagram. Should be a spare terminal, but if not you will need to cut the old one off and refit a new connector including the switch wire.
Taking a feed from no 4 will mean the horn will work without the ign been on.
Basically works, by when you flick the switch, current flows down to the relay, which pulls the connector inside across, connecting the battery power and the horn wire together and HOOOOOOOOOOOGAG!
Edited by Jordie, 19 October 2007 - 08:29 PM.
#5
Posted 19 October 2007 - 06:41 PM
#6
Posted 19 October 2007 - 06:45 PM
#7
Posted 20 October 2007 - 11:16 AM
Edit: found out (5A)
#8
Posted 20 October 2007 - 11:25 AM
If you're still not sure about the wiring I can explain it step by step.
You don't really need a relay... Depends on the cable you use though.
Just looked at your pic and the cable says 17 amp if im not mistaken, so yes a 15 amp fuse will be fine. And if you wire from the battery using that cable, technically you dont need a relay as far as I'm aware.
Edited by Joef, 20 October 2007 - 11:27 AM.
#9
Posted 20 October 2007 - 11:54 AM
Personally I would get a better on-off switch, run a live through it and straight to the klaxon. Take a live from the ignition switch, use the inline fuse you have for this. to the switch, then out of the switch to the klaxon, then earth the klaxon to engine/bodywork. Simple, without alot of messy wires.
and you won't neet big super thick wire to run it, as you're not going to be leaving it on constantly. therefore the wire won't melt.
#10
Posted 20 October 2007 - 01:21 PM
Step by step might be good... It seems everyone does different things though so how do I know what's right?
I want a better switch (brake test switch ideally because it's not an on-off switch) but getting one NOW isn't that easy
#11
Posted 20 October 2007 - 01:26 PM
OK now I'm confused. The horn says 12V/3A so dad said get a 5A fuse, why would I need 15A?
Step by step might be good... It seems everyone does different things though so how do I know what's right?
I want a better switch (brake test switch ideally because it's not an on-off switch) but getting one NOW isn't that easy
Well, a fuse is there to stop the cable burning out and catching fire so as long as the fuse is less than the cable rating then it will be fine.
Your dad isnt wrong, but if you use a 5A fuse it is more likely to blow for silly reasons. Basically the fuse you use can be anything less than 17 A.
Hope that helps sorry to confuse you
#12
Posted 20 October 2007 - 01:31 PM
The simplest way to wire it would be:
Decide where you are going to get your supply from, probably from either the battery or the live side of the fusebox.
Then connect your inline fuse to whatever you decide and connet a wire from the fuse to the switch.
Then another wire from the switch to the + of the horn unit.
Then connect another wire from the - of the horn and connect this to an earth somewhere. This can be a bolt to the chassis or almost anything metal.
You don't need the relay because the cable you are using will easily take the 5A that the horn needs.
HTH
#13
Posted 20 October 2007 - 05:09 PM
You don't need the relay because the cable you are using will easily take the 5A that the horn needs.
the cable might be fine but what about the switch ?
#14
Posted 20 October 2007 - 05:11 PM
This might help. Also, I have a 15A Inline fuse on my Klaxon
#15
Posted 20 October 2007 - 06:00 PM
Tapping the horn wire would be the easiest way and you're not likely to use both at once.
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