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Front subframe.


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#1 Telejmp

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Posted 30 January 2004 - 11:49 AM

Well, I was looking at my mini today, I knew the front subframe was twisted as I was told this when i bought it, BUT, looking at the front wheels, one wheel is a LOT further forward in the arch than the other, maybe about 1 1/2 to 2 inches further forward.
The car does veer to the left when you release the steering wheel, and the tyre on the right is going bald on the inside. Apparently the tracking has been checked already, and is fine.
Could this be anything other than the subframe?
thanks a lot,
pEaCE
Dom

#2 Woody

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Posted 30 January 2004 - 06:59 PM

It sounds just like a bent subframe , but the damage doesent stop there , you have to check the door appatures , measure from the top of the "A" panel back to the door catch (on the "B"post) , if this measurement is corect (easiest to check against another mini ) then the bulkhead should be ok . the easiest way to sort this would be to buy a second hand front subframe complete with all the suspension , this would solve the problem of there being any bent suspension parts aswell , but beware you may be buying a bent one !, best to buy off someone you know or from a mini you can see is straight . after fitting the new 'frame you will see if the car is bent , fortunatly if the front is bent simply bolting on a straight subframe will cure this ( bolt the back bolts first, pull the front bolt holes to match up ) if the floor is a bit bent , this is where your trusty block of wood and lump hammer come in handy ! just bang down the floor to meet your undamaged subframe .
NOTE : when measureing the wheel centers , you must use a straight edge from the back wheel across the front wheel to get an accurate reading (a plank will do )
Good luck , dont be shy to ask questions .

#3 Telejmp

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Posted 30 January 2004 - 09:42 PM

This may sound like a stupid question, but which is the A panel? and the B post?
Looking at the front subframe, im going to have to take the engine and everything out right? Looks like a major job?
thanks a lot,
pEaCE
Dom

#4 Woody

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Posted 31 January 2004 - 08:18 AM

The "A" panel is the panel between the wing and the door , the "B"post is the rear door post , the one the door shuts onto .
It is quite a big job , I would set aside a weekend to do it .
You start by dissconecting all the wires , pipes and the exhast , remove the carb , and then undo the track rod ends , Its only eight bolts and you can lift the front of the bodyshell up and off the subframe/engine/box (you will need the help of 2/3 ablebodied assistants or a good trolley jack)
you then swap the engine/box and the shafts and hubs over to the new subframe and as they say in all the best manuels "refitting is the reverse of removal"but now you will need to bleed the brakes and go and have the tracking checked
Good luck , have fun :grin:

#5 Bluemini

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Posted 31 January 2004 - 08:51 PM

I have a subframe for sale... :)

I twisted me shell, best thing i recon you should do first is check all the steering/suspension bits are all good still, borrow some aor get some from the scrappy and swap em over. If it cures the problem, then your on a winner. If the wheel on one side is still a little far back, get edjustable tie-bars and straighten em up that way. You can only do this if they are a small amount out tho.

If you have to change the subframe and the shell turn out to be twisted, there is a way ouround it. Check for the tell-tail signs like Woody said, and also check for any creases along the bottom of the bulk head on the inside, specialy were the tunnel meets it. On mine I had a massive crease there bout 6" long and it had pushed the mounting point for the front subframe back a fraction too on one side.

There is a cure to this tho, it is a bit brutal, but worked well on mine. I got a mate with a body shop to chain the subframe to a steel gurder in his workshop and rev it to about 5000 rpm then drop the clutch in reverse, the front wheels were bouncing about 6" inches off the floor as the chain went tight. Like I said, a bit brutal but after a few pulls, we had it back to normal. Was fine after that!!

#6 Telejmp

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Posted 31 January 2004 - 10:22 PM

Thanks a lot everyone, This is really helping.
After reading your explanation woody, It doesnt sound as bad as I imagined, but you sound like you have done this a good few times, lol.
Bluemini, thanks for your advice, Ill Try swapping some suspensions bit and pieces over and see if it helps, Ill always have some spare if that isnt the problem.

Thanks a lot
pEaCE
Dom

#7 bumblebee

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Posted 13 February 2004 - 09:11 PM

woodys lumphammer and wood works! i had to do this after whacking a kerb at 40mph and buckling my floor, sound as a pound now too :)

Rich




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