701 replies to this topic

[Artstu]

Is that the reason the Allspeed mounts have a stainless steel collar around them? I also see that some people fit a threaded bar all the way through the rubber mount by removing the original studs and drilling right through.

[iank]

Not sure it will be a problem as the mounts were designed for an engine/gearbox 3x heavier than a Micra lump so they massively over spec.
In the UK it's probably easier to get hold of Land Rover mounts which are even bigger/tougher and more important cheaper.

e.g. linky

If it does turn out to be a problem I'm sure it's possible to add a tie bar from a handy bolt to the side of the subframe

Edited by iank, 06 March 2009 - 10:17 PM.

[Artstu]

Those are dirt cheap aren't they

[Mearcat]

Is that the reason the Allspeed mounts have a stainless steel collar around them? ...

Has anyone got a picture of these Allspeed mounts? I wouldn't mind seeing what type of collar they use.

[iank]

Is that the reason the Allspeed mounts have a stainless steel collar around them? ...

Has anyone got a picture of these Allspeed mounts? I wouldn't mind seeing what type of collar they use.

http://www.16vminishop.co.uk/ has lots of information and photos.
Hope this one shows what you want.

[bigchief3679]

iank is completely correct, the cortina engine is abt 3X heavier and with 2X more bhp and torque. plus i believe if lateral forces were significant, then on hard braking the cortina engine would pop out and hit the radiator!......lol.

Edited by bigchief3679, 12 March 2009 - 03:56 PM.

[andy001]

Hi guys,

Do you have any more photos of the build/s? Specifically the nissan cg13 16v engine? If you don't want to post them up, you can email them if you like.

Ive got the engine, full loom, earbox and a few other odds and ends sitting in my garage from a 1.3 16 v micra.
The mini subframe is also waiting to be cut up, I just don't want to b@lls this up. lol

Cheers.

[GOODY2BE]

Bigchief this is great what you do looks like an easy'ish conversion and probably the cheapest as micra's here in the uk are easy to get hold of from ebay and scrap yards etc good work and great advice with foto's too

[bigchief3679]

the subby to the rear is almost exactly what you are looking at doing. its exactly the same as those on the front page of this thread except for the semi-circular cutout for the crank pulley on the driver's side

[andy001]

Hi, thats great. Thanks for the reply.

Probably a couple stupid questions but i need to clarify.

Did you cut the subframe, place the engine on the floor (inside it)-then mount that to the subframe? Or does the engine need
to be at a different height?
How deep is the box for the manifold. How did you relocate your alternator? Is their a specifc bracket you've used?

If all goes well, I'm going cut it all up later this week.

[bigchief3679]

well actually before cutting anything you must add the rectangular tubing from tower to tower to retain its dimensions. then after cutting out the sides and diff casing clearance, u place the sub and engine on level ground. by propping and wedging pieces of wood (scraps between 1/4 an 1 inch thick are fine) beneath the tie rod brackets at the front u make it level and lined up to the sump/block edge in depth.

[this is why i said everything was done by eye] the cool thing is once uve done the two front mounts level and the engine is centered in the frame, they act as hinges when placing the rear mount up or down [which depends now on shaft departure through the holes on either side] laterally, i would suggest resting a straight piece of tubing or bar from tower to tower, bolt to bolt to always have a form of reference in case ur not confident that the engine is level or twisted in the frame.

about the bulkhead, its not so much a box but more like making the firewall flat in that area.

when ur engine is placed in the frame and mounted, you can measure the distance of the throttle body from the large subframe tower bolt then make a cardboard template of the shape and transpose it to the firewall but it'll be a while before you get there, so dont worry too much about it now! in any case you can always remove the manifold and it studs and do it bit by bit when the engine is in.

the alternator bracket and the roller is custom. u need the roller to get the belt away from the tower and keep enough belt on the water pump pulley when you really punch the X. this must be done outside the engine bay to ensure that it is true plus fabrication is ALOT easier. the roller is a 2inch flat roller and the belt we used was a 4PK1160 but yours is likely to be different. heres a pic.


take into consideration the adjuster and also we removed the outer pulley on the crank because its useless and takes up more than an inch sideways!!
good luck with everything, hope it helps.
this is how it comes together,


sorry for the mud but its after an off road experience in blanchisseuse, trinidad
http://www.youtube.c...re=channel_page
have a good look bert and co.

[andy001]

Very informative, thank you. Its put the doubts in my mind to rest. Looks like the fun begins at the weekend. lol

[bigchief3679]

so..................andy001.
did u cut the subframe last weekend!?
how did it go? the first cut is always d hardest,,,,,,

[Mearcat]

bigchief - what size (diameter & thickness) are the engine mounts you used for the Micra & Starlet engines?

[miniallsort]

this is a great project man keep it up