701 replies to this topic

[evansisgreat]

Good stuff, another one in the pipeline. Be sure to start a build thread so we can help as you go along.

As for the flip front, the main attraction of the conversion (for me anyway) is that there's no need to do any cutting to the body and if you want to return it to standard you in theory could. Also with regulations tightening, and becoming blurrier at the same time it's easier to just aviod it these days.

[minidude1000]

Still hoping BigChief tells us about his disk brake conversion - should be great as his other stuff

I assure you that his disc brake conversions are far superior to the original mini! My mini is currently held back by a jap front disc brake conversion (no brake booster).
Three years daily running and haven't replaced brake pads yet(Not even worn past half yet).

[apjmini]

Evan,

Thanks for your suggestion, my only concern about a project thread is my compentence for the build and then perhaps receiving harsh words from fellow TMF members rather than helpful ones. Even on this long thread there has been certain amount of flaming and unhelpful comments. Perhaps this is why most people keep their builds to themselves and their garages ?

This Friday I will start work on the engine clean-up and paint and by then I should have my subframe.

I will post pictures as I go along to help inform others and perhaps encourage others to give it a go.

Last comment - you mentioned you had a flip front is it fibreglass one of metal ? I have a good front end so really wanted to see whether I could produce a two flip hinging on the front subframe rail but with a seperate bonnet to improve access. I just like the look of it and it reminds me of my old Triumph GT6 with it's excellent access.

[evansisgreat]

No, I said the attraction of this conversion to me is there's no need for a flip front. I don't have one, or want one.

I too have a nice solid front end and I think it'd be a shame to cut it off. The only thing i'd touch (maybe) is the slam panel, maybe make that removable for better access and a bit more room as I plan to turbo my cg13 when it eventually gets fitted.

Obvioulsy it's your mini and if you want to flip front it then do, but if I went to all that trouble I think I'd go vtec or red top.

It's just a personal thing that I don't want to cut my shell, but I'd quite like a nice reliable modern engine when my A series retires.

[paul6266]

has anyone else tried one of these conversions? im a little unsure on those driveshafts tho....correct me if im wrong here but with a 1000 its fine but what about the charged one?

are they not going to snap?

[apjmini]

Evan,

I missed read your post apologies.

I agree I am going down the K11 route for good reliable performance and economy.

[evansisgreat]

has anyone else tried one of these conversions? im a little unsure on those driveshafts tho....correct me if im wrong here but with a 1000 its fine but what about the charged one?

are they not going to snap?

I think they're ok up to about 200bhp if you use the micra ones, which IIRC is the easy option. I've been on lots of mirca forums there's been no mention of shafts. Even when people are sinking lots of money into the engine.

I'm looking for about 150bhp from a CG13 so I think a turbo would be the simplist and most reliable route so I've been looking at all the the threads I can.

I'm just scratching my head about how I can fit everything I want in. I want it turbo'd and to have air con. I'll have to put the air con rad under the rear subframe unless I can figure something else out.

[paul6266]

even tho they have been welded together,i didnt think welding was that strong, can you not fit the air con pump up under the wing?

[apjmini]

Can anyone please advise me what parts are needed from the gearstick to the gearbox.

I am still waiting for my Haynes to arrive in the post, so if anyone can help that would be appreciated.

There is a coupling on the K11 1 litre gearbox so i assume two rods couple with this and then connect to the gearstick some how.

Anyone know ?

Thanks

Andrew

[bigchief3679]

Can anyone please advise me what parts are needed from the gearstick to the gearbox.

I am still waiting for my Haynes to arrive in the post, so if anyone can help that would be appreciated.

There is a coupling on the K11 1 litre gearbox so i assume two rods couple with this and then connect to the gearstick some how.

Anyone know ?

Thanks

Andrew

hey guys what's up. it's always great to see progress especially when i haven't been on in a while. with regards to the shifter it will be best to get the micra shifter as its bends suit the mini tunnel very well. it must be shortened by about 10 inches but this is a job to be done on the car. the stabiliser rod (the fixed one) is done first, then the gearbox is put in neutral and centered. same goes for the shifter before joining the pipes again. hope that helps, you guys can feel free to ask again when you're closer to that task.
here is a picture of the finished item:

[bigchief3679]

even tho they have been welded together,i didnt think welding was that strong, can you not fit the air con pump up under the wing?

the welding is actually quite strong, especially since three surfaces are met by the titanium welding rod and both sides have matching keyways. have never had problems even with my nissan conversion in a Peugeot 306 SR.

[bigchief3679]

has anyone else tried one of these conversions? im a little unsure on those driveshafts tho....correct me if im wrong here but with a 1000 its fine but what about the charged one?

are they not going to snap?

I think they're ok up to about 200bhp if you use the micra ones, which IIRC is the easy option. I've been on lots of mirca forums there's been no mention of shafts. Even when people are sinking lots of money into the engine.

I'm looking for about 150bhp from a CG13 so I think a turbo would be the simplist and most reliable route so I've been looking at all the the threads I can.

I'm just scratching my head about how I can fit everything I want in. I want it turbo'd and to have air con. I'll have to put the air con rad under the rear subframe unless I can figure something else out.

it is possible, just not sure about the turbo part of it. there is room for a tiny compressor behind the grille, and your condensor can be put in the opposing wing to the radiator as in later Japanese Rover Minis. That is where i had put mine when we had done the 16v toyota on the mini gearbox back in the day:
http://www.theminifo...x...st&id=31309

there is alot of space in there, but planning your frame in advance goes a long way in ensuring that everything fits

[apjmini]

Thanks Bigchief very helpful, i just needed to know what parts to be on the look out for at the scrappies.

[evansisgreat]

it is possible, just not sure about the turbo part of it. there is room for a tiny compressor behind the grille, and your condensor can be put in the opposing wing to the radiator as in later Japanese Rover Minis. That is where i had put mine when we had done the 16v toyota on the mini gearbox back in the day:
http://www.theminifo...x...st&id=31309

there is alot of space in there, but planning your frame in advance goes a long way in ensuring that everything fits

Well, I was thinking a top mounted turbo and a 16v ABS motorsport bonnet with a custom manifold. There might just be enough space if I can get the engine low enough.
Also with an intercooler, and engine rad dealing with a turbo, air con might be a very tight squeeze.

I might need to take one of the inner wings away Really don't want to though, I'd rather go SOHC VTEC if I start taking inner wings away. I think the air con compressor will be the tough bit, everything else can find a space. If air con will fit in an MPI engine bay it'll fit in with the CG13.

Edited by evansisgreat, 12 May 2010 - 10:59 PM.

[bigchief3679]

Thanks Bigchief very helpful, i just needed to know what parts to be on the look out for at the scrappies.

basically any of the FWD nissan shifters would work as all have to be shortened anyway. on this list are nissan pulsars, sunnys, AD wagons........our market is different so we quote chassis numbers like B13, B14, Y10, Y11, N14, P10, P11, etc. as long as it looks like the above picture ur good