Nissan Micra Engine Transplant
#436
Posted 25 March 2010 - 10:13 AM
#437
Posted 25 March 2010 - 10:49 AM
haha, it's ok, i'm no expert either but the whole point of this project for me is trying to learn about a bit more modern engine! I would have to say i agree with that logic but if anyone else wants to chime in for sure that would be great!
hey guys, if the canister is to be binned the two vacuum lines must be blocked off. the first is really small and draws partial vacuum under throttle response (its the one nearest the butterfly, on the throttle-body). the other is located under the servo vacuum fitting on the back of the manifold. from what i understand, the large one does the real 'sucking' of fumes and the small line signals the canister when the engine is under throttle (not idle).
by the way, not sure if you need it for MOT. we usually dump these anyway. hope that helps
#438
Posted 25 March 2010 - 10:52 AM
for our mots we need to pass the fumes test based on the car year, not the engine it is running. Therefor i recon my 88 should have an easy pass with this newer engien in it even without the cannister....since, it will create less 'badness' for the atmostphere than my carb'ed A series
thanks
#439
Posted 28 March 2010 - 02:42 PM
Thought I would high jack Big-chiefs thread again and post some pictures of how things are going with my build. Hope he doesn't mind.
Drive shafts welded and in (Think I should have wiped them before I took the pictures). Exhaust Manifold made and on. It was made from some flat bar and an old Mini long center branch I Had lying around. About to start on the inlet. Think this is going to be the hardest part of the build. I will attempt to make an injection manifold but if that fails will go down the Bike carb route. The other picture is the inlet manifold flange before I have opened up the ports PS does any one know if the lambda censor has to be within a certain distance from the head.
Attached Files
Edited by harespeed, 28 March 2010 - 02:53 PM.
#440
Posted 28 March 2010 - 03:42 PM
thanks
#441
Posted 28 March 2010 - 04:04 PM
Thanks.great work mate! where did you get your driveshafts made up?
thanks
I have a small Lathe so was able to make them myself. Made the sleeve a press fit then welded the ends of the sleeve. For a bit of extra strength I drilled down through the sleeve into the shaft then filled it with weld you can still see it in the picture.
Thanks Jim.
Attached Files
#442
Posted 29 March 2010 - 06:17 PM
#443
Posted 29 March 2010 - 08:17 PM
Had to reply to see what is, still none the wiser wub wub?
#444
Posted 29 March 2010 - 11:55 PM
Is this a temp item?
Your exhaust manifold isnt balanced very well you should have gone for something more down this route
there is more info here
Your design may well rob you of a lot of performance/driveability
Drive shafts are looking good! Great to see another nearly done1
Edited by ringonezero, 29 March 2010 - 11:56 PM.
#445
Posted 31 March 2010 - 08:01 AM
Is this a temp item?
Your exhaust manifold isn't balanced very well you should have gone for something more down this route
there is more info here
Your design may well rob you of a lot of performance/driveability
Drive shafts are looking good! Great to see another nearly done
Hi Ringonezero.
The first manifold I built had stainless cnc machined flange equal length primaries and secondaries. pipe lengths to give power band between 5500 to 8000 rpm. all stainless and TIG welded then polished. But my mate stole it and plumbed it into his central heating system and uses it as a towel rail in his bathroom HA HA
No to be serious I know the manifold has quite a few short comings but as I said the tubing came from an old LCB I had lying in the garage cost zero. The flange cost £5 for 1000mm (three flange) my time zero, Wire, Gas maybe £1 total £3 approx. Not to bad I think. It wont be the final manifold when the whole project is finished. I am building this on a very small initial budget and hope to improve the outcome when its all finished and as funds allow.
The part you have highlighted is the mounting point for the sump guard. I would obviously would have liked it to be higher (more ground clearance) but we are back to the old chestnut of drive shaft alignment which to be honest decided the height the engine sits in the sub frame. To give clearance (sump to sump guard) this is where it ended up. The car is being built so I can use it in some club motor sport eventually hence the need for the sump guard. To be honest its only about 25mm lower than a normal mini guard.
Thanks for your interest Jim.
Edited by harespeed, 01 April 2010 - 09:02 AM.
#446
Posted 31 March 2010 - 02:34 PM
And like you say once it's 'finnished' it'll be one of those little things you can sort while perfecting everything. Once it's on the road you'll find a few niggles like everyone does.
#447
Posted 31 March 2010 - 05:08 PM
i will post pictures soon.
build it how you like it some people are never happy
Edited by flying banana, 31 March 2010 - 05:09 PM.
#448
Posted 04 April 2010 - 06:44 PM
#449
Posted 05 April 2010 - 11:36 AM
Hi Benbob.I went to an autojumble today and there was quite a lot of bike manifolds there, has any looked into modding one of these? sadly I hadn't taken any measurements of the nissan so I couldn't compare the ones I saw but they did look promising. These were from some sort of 750cc bike.
Have a look at this. Converting back to the distributor might be a bit tricky.
http://retrorides.pr...?...0267&page=6
#450
Posted 05 April 2010 - 05:05 PM
Have a look at this. Converting back to the distributor might be a bit tricky.
http://retrorides.pr...?...0267&page=6
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It looks very interesting, but I actually was meaning the exhaust side. With a bit of cutting and extending they look at first glance they could fit.
bike_exhaust.JPG 39.96K 17 downloads
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