701 replies to this topic

[monkeyjim]

thanks ethel, am also interested to hear bigchief chime in on this?

I have a 93 1300 engine and box

I am so lucky as I had the old Allspeed frame already . I have no issues with the gearbox or being close to the rack . I have the engine and box at work at the moment and I am on hols at home but when I get back I will take note of the number on the box as it may help some of you .

I think a lot of issues with space can depend on where in the frame the engine is mounted . Obvious I know but if we are all putting them in slightly differant positions in differant types of frame ? At the engine end I have tried to follow the pictures from bigchief , the water pump pulley is in-line with the tower bolt hole and the top of the pulley is looking to be level with the flat part of the tower top it seems . This is how I have done mine .
Bulkhead wise I have cut a bit out but whether the latter inlet is bigger than the 93 one I dont know but if it is there will be another differance in builds . I will be using the original ex manifold/cat , taken some out of the front panel under the grille . It just touched before I relieved the panel so it should fit ok . I could go out and buy one but that is not cheap and if it fits I am not really that bothered . Incidently Jimbob if you are making manifolds it could be woth making a few as it seems to be a popular conversion now .

Performance and vtecs : How many times have you sat on the motorway on the way to a show with your ears bleeding from the sound of a A series at 70 running on 10's and a 3.4 only to be effortlessly overtaken by a 3 cylinder engine Daewoo ? We all have unless we own a Sportpack. So for me its a cheap conversion to modernise and slightly improve the performance of the Mini and fit a free 5 speed box, using 13's daily but got 10inch MBs for shows . Think of the cost to buy a A series 5 speed or even get a A series near the 100hp bracket . . . I was given the donor car and had a frame already but even if you had to buy both it will still be cheaper than a VTEC .

My wiring is shot in my Mini so I will be using the Micra wiring loom and just need to change a few end connectors . I will use Micra switchgear, column stalks, cowling speedo and surround . . Dont worry , I know it sounds awfull but it will be tastefully done . I have run the loom in the car and it fits quite well , going to rig up the Micra indicator switch assembly in the right place on the column today . . Using the instrument cluster also does away with gauge issus and speedo cable mods. Basically its re-shelling a Micra into a Mini . less trim and suspension.
Using original wiring and not trying to marry up wiring from 2 differant cars will also save any running issues with ECU's etc . You hear of people fitting uprated ECU's to conversions and they cost a fortune to set up and usually take a age to do . Got a guy in my club with a aftermarket engine mangement , it has messed him about since it was put it . Last I heard the vtec would not kick in . Surely it would have been easier to run original management and ECU , afterall the car manufacturer spends a fortune developing it . Isnt the standard power from a vtec enough without adding more? Unless it a track only car .

Alternator wise : I have relieved quite a bit of metal from inside the engine bay in few areas . Also adjusted engine mount positions so when I get the frame back home and fitted I will take another look at the alternator postion .

I have a Mpi tank so will be using that with fuel return . Not running a servo at the present . I suppose it could be possible to fit a remote one under nearside of dash if the big chief design is not to peoples liking . Never looked into the remote servo thing so not sure how they work under there. Just a thought .

Radiator wise I had a word with my local radiator supplier and repairer . Said what I was doing and that the mini rad sitting on top of the box will be to tall and asked what he would suggest . He said he can supply any core size I wanted , so if I wanted it shorter but a bit wider .no problem .
Something you guys may want to look into when thinking about radiators, may be of help .

Dave

Edited by monkeyjim, 09 February 2010 - 11:04 AM.

[drummerian]

sweet sounds like you've done some good work mate! now looking for:

*mpi tank
*fuel piping (from front to rear)
*steel plate
*steel box section
*mini to metro hoses (is this all i need to convert to metro 4pots?)
*possibly a bigger xhaust (any ideas how big i would need?)
*new subframe kit (poly bushes etc)


if anyone has any ideas where i can aquire said items please give me a shout!

[Artstu]

Are you going to make your own subframe Drummer Ian?

[dazzler-pws]

Drummerian

not one to poopoo your ethuisaism but.... If you are asking such basic questions then i dont think you will have mechanical knowledge to complete such conversion

Anyways, part of what is going on is our workshop, is sticking one of these "Micra" lumps into a mini will keep you all updated, all i will say is the subframe and drive shafts are the easiest parts on any conversion

Edited by ringonezero, 09 February 2010 - 07:31 PM.

[drummerian]

Drummerian

not one to poopoo your ethuisaism but.... If you are asking such basic questions then i dont think you will have mechanical knowledge to complete such conversion

Anyways, part of what is going on is our workshop, is sticking one of these "Micra" lumps into a mini will keep you all updated, all i will say is the subframe and drive shafts are the easiest parts on any conversion

thanks for the honest but i don't think you understand my motivation behind owning a mini. I have rebuilt doris and a couple of a series engines and learnt alot from here on the forum which i have managed to apply in real life, such experiences and ability to learn managed to get me a scholarship with the NAtional Grid (big win for me!). Now i have done that, i want to learn more, so this means fuel injection and a more modern engine, although this is a challenge and i do have a lot to learn the best way is by doing is it not? Electronics is my strong point...

Thanks for the concern but i'm in no hurry to get the engine in the car and i do relise the challenges invovled, but it is only by making mistakes that the lessons really stick.

[drummerian]

Are you going to make your own subframe Drummer Ian?

i shall be modifying a mini front subframe in a similar way to jimbobs pictures on here. I'm taking a learn by doing approach If there are people who feel i cannot manage it then this is just another drive for me to get it done and prove them wrong

[iank]

Are you going to make your own subframe Drummer Ian?

i shall be modifying a mini front subframe in a similar way to jimbobs pictures on here. I'm taking a learn by doing approach If there are people who feel i cannot manage it then this is just another drive for me to get it done and prove them wrong

If you can MIG weld a strong joint with good penetration then there's no reason why you can't do the conversion with a bit of care and thought.
If you can't then go on a course and practice on scrap metal until you can. Then it's just measure twice, measure again then cut

Drive shafts will be the hardest bit to do as they need to be just right.

I believe you need the metro drive flange to fit 4 pots, but as the engine is lighter and not much more powerful than a regular 1275cc mini the 8.4" discs and calipers will be fine, at least until you are on the road.

Good luck

Edited by iank, 09 February 2010 - 09:26 PM.

[drummerian]

Are you going to make your own subframe Drummer Ian?

i shall be modifying a mini front subframe in a similar way to jimbobs pictures on here. I'm taking a learn by doing approach If there are people who feel i cannot manage it then this is just another drive for me to get it done and prove them wrong

If you can MIG weld a strong joint with good penetration then there's no reason why you can't do the conversion with a bit of care and thought.
If you can't then go on a course and practice on scrap metal until you can. Then it's just measure twice, measure again then cut

Drive shafts will be the hardest bit to do as they need to be just right.

I believe you need the metro drive flange to fit 4 pots, but as the engine is lighter and not much more powerful than a regular 1275cc mini the 8.4" discs and calipers will be fine, at least until you are on the road.

Good luck

thanks for the advice iank

i can already weld from when i rebuilt doris, and practice makes perfect

[evansisgreat]

This thread has got me really excited about this conversion. Can't wait till you guy all get on the road and we can see a finnished one here in the uk.

[bigchief3679]

hey you guys are on the right track.
a relates to the fuel tank, the mpi or spi tank is indeed the best option but we usually install the fuel pump from the pulsar or sunny for good measure (they are widely available here) the advantages of the internal pump besides aesthetics, it takes up less space and is way quieter than an external. i would advise the installation of two new metal lines for fuel, mines are 5/16 internal diameter. my engine is out this week for timing chain replacement, water pump andturbo downpipe, any pictures you guys need in particular, just let me know. good luck............

[drummerian]

hey you guys are on the right track.
a relates to the fuel tank, the mpi or spi tank is indeed the best option but we usually install the fuel pump from the pulsar or sunny for good measure (they are widely available here) the advantages of the internal pump besides aesthetics, it takes up less space and is way quieter than an external. i would advise the installation of two new metal lines for fuel, mines are 5/16 internal diameter. my engine is out this week for timing chain replacement, water pump andturbo downpipe, any pictures you guys need in particular, just let me know. good luck............

hey bigchief

thanks for the reply regarding fueling!

do you usually convert a carb'd tank or the spi tank to accept this new pump? is this difficult and would the micra pump be a possiblity?

I take it using this it is all you would need fueling wise, since i gather all the pressure system is housed inside the pump unit?

thanks

[FartinMartin]

Drive shafts will be the hardest bit to do as they need to be just right.

I believe you need the metro drive flange to fit 4 pots

Drive shafts are one of the easiest bits, length does not need to be that accurate - 20mins on the lathe and use a very good welder

You don't need metro drive flanges unless you are going vented, however it is better if you get some ERA caliper bolts

[drummerian]

Drive shafts will be the hardest bit to do as they need to be just right.

I believe you need the metro drive flange to fit 4 pots

Drive shafts are one of the easiest bits, length does not need to be that accurate - 20mins on the lathe and use a very good welder

You don't need metro drive flanges unless you are going vented, however it is better if you get some ERA caliper bolts

thanks, whats the advantage of the ERA caliper bolts? otherwise i jsut need the hoses and it would be a straight swap?

thanks

[Ethel]

Mini's are 3/8unf Metros M10. Era bolts have unf thread on a metric shank to match the 2.

[drummerian]

thanks ethel, shall look into it!