Nissan Micra Engine Transplant
#271
Posted 20 January 2010 - 09:22 PM
You need to have the alternator attached to the engine otherwiise when the engine moves forwards and backwards on acceleration an braking the belt will slacken and tighten. Mounting it to the bracebar will not let it move with the engine. Your build sounds interesting would love to see some pictures.
Cheers
Oli
#272
Posted 25 January 2010 - 08:34 AM
based in guildford, surrey. http://www.theminifo...hp?product=8380
as you were...
#273
Posted 27 January 2010 - 11:35 AM
sorry for blatent thread hack, but for those in need of a donor, i have listed one in the for sale section thats perfect for transplant.
based in guildford, surrey. http://www.theminifo...hp?product=8380
as you were...
shot gun!
now where if anywhere can i require this smaller gearbox i've heard of?
I am hoping to get this to fit in whilst retaining my full metal front so space if paramount
Ian
#274
Posted 31 January 2010 - 12:21 PM
#275
Posted 31 January 2010 - 03:58 PM
anyoen still in this thread?!
I am! I really want to do this, but it won't happen for a few years
From what I gather you want a pre '98 cg10 gearbox. So, that's any 1 litre pre 98 box, the 1.3 have always used the bigger box. But looking at Flying Banana's post's (photos are now gone) I'm sure he was using the bigger box and it JUST fitted without any other body modifications (which is why I'm so interested in this thread).
Although it made the rad harder to fit, I think it would be effort well spent for the better ratios and stronger box. According to wikipedia in 5th at 100km/h the smaller box would be at 3338, where as the larger box would be 2853, but I'm guessing that's with Micra sized wheels.
It also saves you from finding the rarer box and would make replacement / repair easier.
Oh, I've found the link for... gearbox info
Edited by evansisgreat, 31 January 2010 - 04:00 PM.
#276
Posted 31 January 2010 - 04:04 PM
anyoen still in this thread?!
I am! I really want to do this, but it won't happen for a few years
From what I gather you want a pre '98 cg10 gearbox. So, that's any 1 litre pre 98 box, the 1.3 have always used the bigger box. But looking at Flying Banana's post's (photos are now gone) I'm sure he was using the bigger box and it JUST fitted without any other body modifications (which is why I'm so interested in this thread).
Although it made the rad harder to fit, I think it would be effort well spent for the better ratios and stronger box. According to wikipedia in 5th at 100km/h the smaller box would be at 3338, where as the larger box would be 2853, but I'm guessing that's with Micra sized wheels.
It also saves you from finding the rarer box and would make replacement / repair easier.
Oh, I've found the link for... gearbox info
hey, yeah i agree with what your reading...fortunatly tommorow i'm off to see flying bananas efforts so will report back! I believe he had to cut out sooo much of the bulkhead due to the later manifold he had (however, i have the earlier type)
think the larger box is probz worth squeezing in then since i do a good few motorway miles in my car (hence the conversion really)
got the car coming at the start of my easter holidays so should have some more progress there!
#277
Posted 31 January 2010 - 05:22 PM
Hope your visit is enlightening!
Edit: I meant to say, I think if you fit an aftermarket manifold then there might be no need for bulkhead chopping, but I also think there may be a slight chance of it interfering with the alternator mounting thats been used in the builds, and if you've an MPI (like me) you might have to keep an eye on the emissions. Still worth investigating!
Edited by evansisgreat, 31 January 2010 - 05:27 PM.
#278
Posted 31 January 2010 - 07:55 PM
. I am going to mount the alternator on that bar so it will face the engine rather than face out like all normal engines have them , I am not keen on the alternator mounted on top of engine "
You need to have the alternator attached to the engine otherwiise when the engine moves forwards and backwards on acceleration an braking the belt will slacken and tighten. Mounting it to the bracebar will not let it move with the engine. Your build sounds interesting would love to see some pictures.
Cheers
Oli
Hi ,
I am aware of the fact the engine moves and alternator solid mounted wont help the belt tension . I am going to use a self tensioner as used on the majority of modern engines . They keep the belt permanantly adjusted . Interestingly the vw alternator is solid mounted , albeit to the engine not a frame .I have a vw one at the moment and am about to make a bracket to bolt it to engine . If however it does not work I will have to resort to the ' on top ' approach .
I now know the alternator will charge regardless of its direction of rotation . A dynamos charge however is dependant on rotation. The only issue I may have is heating up of the alternator due to its internal metal fan running in the wrong direction . Although the auto electrician I spoke to in the trade suggests this is more likely the more it has to run and for how long . I dont intend using it everyday wont have a big ice install to run either . Will just have lights and a heated rear screen . I suppose I could remove the internal fan and either make a reverse fan for it or bolt a reverse fan to the front behind the pulley . Long time off yet ,. Will cross that bridge when it happens.
#279
Posted 31 January 2010 - 09:46 PM
as it relates to the gearbox, i may heve been very biased towards the usage of the smaller box due to the fact that it is still widely available down here and is identical to that of the k10 micra 5 speed box. [when in rome, right ]
your observations about space restrictions are exactly on point. the big box makes my method of subframe construction impossible/impractical and also indeed reduces room for the radiator and causes the need for even more juggling around, but it is also good that the 'tubing' method may be employed. this means that there is a much wider knowledge base [between TMF and 16valvemini.com] to learn from as most conversions are done this way.
oh yes, about the solid alternator. if it is not mounted with the engine it is going to squeal its nuts off and drive you straight to the sanitarium. remember ur engine moves not only on acceleration but deceleration as well giving a wide range of motion. belt slippage here is going to be exxagerated by the ratio of pulley sizes as well. there is no tensioner that will react that quickly.
people are gonna say: 'hey look here comes the squealer now!' . and soon enough ull be trying to go to your 'happy place' in the fetal position in a padded room wearing a white straight jacket repeating to yourself: 'it just squeals.......no matter what i did.......it just squeals' .
and then these huge men in white come in an....................well u get the idea.
just yankin ya!
there's a guy in the suzuki section that tried it, have a read.
#280
Posted 31 January 2010 - 10:19 PM
i think the better and stronger ratios are worth the extra effort on the subframe and i'm sure the radiator will fit (if not im sure i can find one that will)
any opinions?
#281
Posted 01 February 2010 - 12:38 AM
i feel i shall be trying with the larger gearbox..
i think the better and stronger ratios are worth the extra effort on the subframe and i'm sure the radiator will fit (if not im sure i can find one that will)
any opinions?
go for it
#282
Posted 01 February 2010 - 02:30 AM
Not a problem if you can prove where the new engine came from (its age really). You're tested by whichever is older engine or car.
Just be wary of the modified car IVA trap
#283
Posted 01 February 2010 - 12:51 PM
MPI emissions:
Not a problem if you can prove where the new engine came from (its age really). You're tested by whichever is older engine or car.
Just be wary of the modified car IVA trap
Oh, that's great. I always thought it was the reg that it was tested on.
Although, when I was on the micra forums the guys were saying the also had problems getting the new inlet manifolds though the MOT, and some of them had to change back to the original rubbish maifold for testing purposes.
#284
Posted 01 February 2010 - 12:59 PM
just been to see flying bnanas project, first off what a nice guy!
His progress so far looks brilliant, but, seeing as he is using such a new engine the inlet manifold on it seems huge! This has resulted in lots of bulk head mods to fit it.
The engine also has the large gearbox, which looks massive to fit in but he has managed it and he told me there would be room for the radiator too.
Because of the larger gearbox the subframe mods are alot more darastic....looking at his, and jimbobs photos two completely different approaches have been taken. I will be trying jimbobs i believe, since i have the smaller manifold but larger gearbox. If this works i will deffo be putting together a pictures guide with exactly what to do for the whole conversion (somthing that would have been invaluable to me im sure if such a thing existed!)
Can't wait to get stuck in now!
IF anyone does find a smaller gearbox i may also consider that route since the boys in T&T look like they do some really neat installs with those!
Good luck guys,
ian
If anyone does
#285
Posted 03 February 2010 - 09:48 PM
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