701 replies to this topic

[flying banana]

Impressive work there flying, have you welded the shafts or made new?

i have welded them and then got them turned down and tieded up at work
and now have made an adapter for the exaulst manifold so that i can use mine
and do away with my cat (pictures soon)
andy

[gallivant]

well i promised u guys an update, here it is. we've long finished a friend's nissan CG13DE conversion in his mini and today i remembered to take some pictures of the install. theres also one of the pulley side of the subframe and its reinforcement. upgrading from the MA10 to the CG13 is just as hard as doing it from scratch we've learnt except for the left mount and the shifter which remains unchanged. the entire right side of the subbie must be re-worked plus the rear mount is dropped about 1 inch lower to accomodate the curvy CG manifold. would you guys believe that this engine intrudes even less into the firewall than the MA10 engine! this means that mods can be even more conservative requiring less welding.
pulley side of sub:


we are really pleased with the quality of this install and the owner was blown away too. the engine is extremely nimble and revs quite freely. the tach just flings around at hits the limiter with ease! the power delivery is VERY different to a mini or even MA engine and with the headers it sounds like a VTEC screamer. i will try to do a video so u guys can hear what i mean exactly. just picture pigeons flying away in all directions and frightened pedestrians fleeing in horror. heheh.......heh.
heres pictures of the install :




gotta love sideways brakes [patent pending]

Hey bigchief,

I'm from Venezuela, and reading your post inspires me to take the conversion stuff seriously again. I read it from the begin, saving all the pictures and important comments, the thing is that I think that I don’t have the necessary knowledge to make such work, but I love my mini and I always wanted to make it more reliable and easy to maintain.

The thing is that I would like to contract you to make this conversion, but my mini is a minicord (fiber glass, Venezuelan made), it’s left driven, has A/C, so maybe you need to check if that is possible and the necessary changes, please let me know about your services, my e-mail [email protected].

Regards,

Enrike Barreto

[Clubman SCL]

simply amazing!
bigchief good job, congratulations here in Chile try to do the same with my next Clubman Estate, photos and data I have cleared many doubts and gave me confidence to pursue the project.
All for the excessive cost of parts for the engine series A.
I will try to put the engine nissan ga16dne. I also have in view the engine of the Nissan Sunny 1.5 8 valve but if I had to do the swap I think the work is the same at 1.5 in the 1.6 multi and the latter against the 105hp engine has 70hp of b11
when I start asking you some advice.

[benbob]

Hi Jimbob

Have you got anymore pictures of your engine in the subframe now you are happy with your engine height. I would like to guage how high yours is and compare it to mine.

I have cut the required bits out and added the cross member to the subframe, so I am reaching the point you were a few weeks ago when you were working out where it all should go.

Also how much have you cut out for the gearbox at the front? I think mine should go back a bit further and down.

When I am happy with my setup I will post pictures.

[Mearcat]

Hi bigchief,

Is there any chance you have a photo of the linkage that transfers the vertical movement from the brake pedal to a horizontal one (for the booster)? I think it's an excellent idea to reposition the booster.

Edited by Mearcat, 15 December 2009 - 02:55 PM.

[Artstu]

Just in case he doesn't come on for a while, here it is

[drummerian]

is the cg13det engine the most powerful one to go for that will fit then? what cars/years are we looking at to pluck these beasties from

[monkeyjim]

is the cg13det engine the most powerful one to go for that will fit then? what cars/years are we looking at to pluck these beasties from

I got mine from a late 93 , L reg Car .
It does not have the Nissan Anti Theft System ( NATS ) immobilzer built into it which saves a load of aggro by not needing to by-pass the system , although I am going to use all the Micra wiring loom as my Mini one is not useable .. I am not entirely sure when this system came in . According to Haynes manual they all have it but I believe the NATS chipped key is of a chunky square design (compared to the older rounded thin key) which has a red square on it and may only have been standard across the range from the major facelift in 1998.

Edited by monkeyjim, 20 December 2009 - 08:13 PM.

[flying banana]

its been a time but some updated pictures







you can see from this picture that i had to cut away a lot of the bulkhead
and in the next picture it shows from inside you can see the bottom of the brake master/cyl

i now have to box in the hole made and try and fit the pedal/box back in wish me luck

[drummerian]

so are we able to get this smaller box thats been talked about in the uk?

[Ethel]

The Brakes look a doddle - just the same as the horizontal Mini setup but swung through a right angle. It's the clutch that's puzzling me.

[bigmotherwhale]

hey guys its been a while since ive posted on here been busy with many thing, ive finaly sourced a local micra almost complete as a donor belived to be 1998, i hope it doesnt have the nats you were talking about - sounds like hassle to me.

well done to all you who have started this project alot of progress has been made since i last looked. as i have lots of square section lying around i think im also going to make a frame similar to yours flying banana - looks very nice, tho you decided to put the engine alot closer to the bulkhead and cut a bigger hole. what made you decide to do this?

[bigchief3679]

hey guys i must say that after being away for a while that i am quite impressed with everyone's progress so far.
keep up the good work guys
my cg10 turbo has been running constantly and problem free and driven almost daily since install, i am eager to see the results of the use of a different subframe design.
keep the updates coming,

bigchief3679

[flying banana]

hey guys its been a while since ive posted on here been busy with many thing, ive finaly sourced a local micra almost complete as a donor belived to be 1998, i hope it doesnt have the nats you were talking about - sounds like hassle to me.

well done to all you who have started this project alot of progress has been made since i last looked. as i have lots of square section lying around i think im also going to make a frame similar to yours flying banana - looks very nice, tho you decided to put the engine alot closer to the bulkhead and cut a bigger hole. what made you decide to do this?

it had to go there you have to keep the drive shafts in line with the hubs,
i think where mine is a later injection it has a large inlet manifold so i had no choice than to
cut out more of the bulk head.
more pictures on way soon .
andy

[monkeyjim]

hey guys its been a while since ive posted on here been busy with many thing, ive finaly sourced a local micra almost complete as a donor belived to be 1998, i hope it doesnt have the nats you were talking about - sounds like hassle to me.

well done to all you who have started this project alot of progress has been made since i last looked. as i have lots of square section lying around i think im also going to make a frame similar to yours flying banana - looks very nice, tho you decided to put the engine alot closer to the bulkhead and cut a bigger hole. what made you decide to do this?

it had to go there you have to keep the drive shafts in line with the hubs,
i think where mine is a later injection it has a large inlet manifold so i had no choice than to
cut out more of the bulk head.
more pictures on way soon .
andy

I am using the 1300 from a 93 Micra in a standard steel round nose front Mini , inner wings cut out ..
Mine uses a Allspeed based frame . The bar running between the subframe towers was to high and stopped the engine sitting down in the frame. Once the bar was removed the engine dropped in straight away . I then welded the bar back in further down between the towers .

I am using similar style front mounts to Bigchief with LandRover rubbers and the the original large Micra rear mounting bracket modified to take a larger rear mount rubber which is a Rover 200 offside top engine mount , so the rear engine mount is quite beefy . I have welded a large flat plate to the top of the bracket and one to the bar between the subframe towers , so I may bolt a additional LandRover rubber in between the 2 plates .

Bulkhead modified to suit , it does loose the clutch master cylinder hole , just leaving the hole for the brake master cylinder . My car already had a welded in recessed box in the middle of the bulkhead below the crossmember that the standard Mini master cylinders mount onto . Because of this extra box (like a turbo box but mounted lower ) I have modified the pedal box by cutting off the clutch cylinder mounting bolts and that corner of the pedal box and then the nearside of the mounting brackets that bolt vertically through the bulkhead , this bracket will be re-made so its bolted on further down the bulkhead. The clutch pedal did not get its full throw because of the recess for the Micra engine in the bulkhead . So firstly I cut off the section of the pedal the master cylinder clevis pin passes through then I removed the clutch pedal and noticed that there is in fact 2 bushes with a gap in between both in the pedal where the pivot shaft passes through it and is bolted to pedal box . I cut between the bush so the top off the pedal was in 2 parts . I swapped the part cut from top right of pedal and welded it to the left hand end of the left hand section . What this all basically does is put the top of the clutch and brake pedals closer together . The clutch pedal now misses the bulkhead boxes but is almost touching the steering column . I overcame this by cutting the pedal into 2 sections and welding a small bit off box section to the side of one part and then welding the other section of pedal to the other side of the box . Basically it spaces the clutch pedal back across away from the column into its original position . I looks better than it sounds believe me . All I need to do regarding the clutch pedal is mount the cable to it , the engine and frame are out at the moment so its a job to do when they are back in . I guess I will have the clutch cable coming up from the floor ???? All work in progress .

With the allspeed frame there is a bar from the towers that goes down to the front of the frame , looks similar to the bulkhead bracing bars used with flip fronts . I am going to mount the alternator on that bar so it will face the engine rather than face out like all normal engines have them , I am not keen on the alternator mounted on top of engine . Means the alternator is mounted behind the headlamp but still accessible as I have no inner wings . I may have a issue with cooling the alternator as the fan inside it will be running in the wrong direction but I am happy it will still charge . Sure I can get round the fan issue , advice appreciated . The alternator may be solid mounted so the belt adjustment needs to be tight but still allow for movement of the engine . Many modern car engines have the alternator solidly mounted to the engine and use a hydraulic or sprung tensioner to self adjust and keep the belt tight . I may use a sprung damper that looks like a Mini coil over shock such as Diesel Peugeot alternator drive belt tensioners . I could bolt one end to the alternator and the other to the frame , the alternator will need to pivot slightly on its mounts , or if completly solid mounted I could bolt a tensioner like diesel VW's use (although this particular type is to large) to the engine and it will tension the belt conventionally as it would on the vw . Still a bit to do there to , trying to decide which to use . I reckon the coil over type may be the one as it is a lot simpler as it uses the alternator as the tensior due to the spring pushing on it .

Not looking forward to the driveshafts , I guess cutting pinning and sleeving is the way to go . Concerned about measuring them wrongly resulting in incorrect length shafts . As all our conversions will be mounted slightly differantly in the engine bay there will not be a guide length we can all go by . Bigchief is the exception here as his brackets are virtually off the shelf and all his conversions mount in the same place in the car , meaning shaft lengths are the same each time .

Edited by monkeyjim, 20 January 2010 - 09:28 PM.