1881 replies to this topic

[Alburglar]

Cheers Ade.
Not gone for master cylinder upgrade... yet! But have gone for the tube front as I had cut out the inner wing on near side to fit a fan when running 1380 which meant that I 've got no integral strength to the wing on that side. I then had to weld plates to my front sub to locate my top damper mounts, which I welded to the plates, which bolted through the wing. It made more sense to get the new frame than to *male chicken* about cutting and welding new coilover mounts to the old subby....

...blah blah blah - it looked cool and nearly made me come, so I had to justify the extra expense that I can't really afford.
Plus it meant that I could send up my wheels and hubs to get a rolling shell and my suspension set up whilst it's there.

[Ade]

Cheers Ade.
Not gone for master cylinder upgrade... yet! But have gone for the tube front as I had cut out the inner wing on near side to fit a fan when running 1380 which meant that I 've got no integral strength to the wing on that side. I then had to weld plates to my front sub to locate my top damper mounts, which I welded to the plates, which bolted through the wing. It made more sense to get the new frame than to *male chicken* about cutting and welding new coilover mounts to the old subby....

...blah blah blah - it looked cool and nearly made me come, so I had to justify the extra expense that I can't really afford.
Plus it meant that I could send up my wheels and hubs to get a rolling shell and my suspension set up whilst it's there.

LOL you don't need to talk to me about justifying the subby!! Best remember that speech for the missus !!!

But I'll hopefully let you know tomorrow how the new bits go. So I'll be able to advise you more. But I'd definatley prepare yourself for doing some brake work..........

[pete]

Just added Ade's lastest parts to the minus. Kad brake master cylinder expertly modified by myself to fit a minus and allow the bonnet to shut. He now has brakes that work(bit too well as he just called me and said that one front brake had locked on). Still needs some front-rear bias adjustment.

Edited by pete, 13 August 2006 - 07:15 PM.

[markrally]

Just added Ade's lastest parts to the minus. Kad brake master cylinder expertly modified by myself to fit a minus and allow the bonnet to shut. He now has brakes that work(bit too well as he just called me and said that one front brake had locked on). Still needs some front-rear bias adjustment.

Why didnt it fit the minus? only the roofline is lower surely? Not the bonnet level aswell???
Cheers MArk

Ps if the brakes are stuck on, you may not have any freeplay in the cylinder pushrods as it may jack up on itself and hold some slight pressure on??

[pete]

I think your right Mark. We adjusted the pushrods to reduce pedal travel but think we went a bit too far. Would have been good to get some sort of basic set up instuctions with it.

Minus is lower because it's cut along the body line. This means you can only fit the old style single master cylinder without it hitting the bonnet. The kad one also sits too high so had to cut the base plate off, slightly alter the angle it sits at and weld it back together. Luckily we sat it on the other minus and found the problem before plumbing it all in to Ade's.

[markrally]

The distance between the centres of the yokes (pivot joints on the pushrods) on the balance bar look too tight and they may also be fouling and holding just the front cylinder on?
Should of had a setup sheet included with the KAD pedal box?? I did.

Good mod when you get it set up right.

Cheers

[Ade]

HMmmmmm definatley no set-up sheet included...... Will call them tomorrow..... Was an interesting journey home that was for sure. but on the plus point the potential of this set-up is immediatley obvious!! The brakes are just amazing now! They still need setting up properly as (although I stopped and fiddled a few times after the brake lock incident) If i jump on the brakes I can get the rears to lock without the fronts...

But I would definatley recommend these for anyone with a minus doing this conversion!

[Dolts]

Thanks for testing them for me Ade! i think you've just made my mind up for me!

[R1minimagic]

Ade,

What size masters have you got, 3/4" and 5/8"??

[Ade]

I think so? I'll go out on a limb and assume they're a standard size that they supply? I told them it was going into a z-cars mini and they said it would be fine...... Why anything I should be aware of?

[R1minimagic]

KAD haven't tested any rear engined minis with the pedalbox so they are guessing those sizes are ok. I think they will be ok for yours (as it is so heavy ) but mine is wound all the way to the front so i probably need to go to the next size

[pete]

We sort of worked out they were different sized cylinders but can one of you confirm which is front and which is rear. We have put the fronts to the offside and rears to the nearside.
Thanks

Pete

[R1minimagic]

5/8" front and 3/4" rear

[Ade]

I don't suppose you can remember what the code on the bottom of each one was can you?? I was fiddleing some more tonight and am having real difficulty getting the bias adjuster to stay free whilst retaining any decent pedal?!?!! Took it for a short road test with it set so the in car adjuster is free and works and whislt the breaks are biased to the rear I can lock the rear end (more so than I expected!!!! sideways!!!!) Adjusting it all the way to the front just resulted in slowing donw quickly but not as much as I'd like (or achieved with the more pressure against the bias bar).

I guess the heavy car of mine must be making it unresponsive!!

[Bungle]

heavy car or driver ?