
TwinK - 98% BMW free
#301
Posted 18 August 2008 - 05:59 PM
#302
Posted 19 August 2008 - 11:19 AM
Udo, is the mini on the road yet?
No not yet


Haven't had time to be working on it due to various things, did make a start last weekend again, fitted a new tensioner, as I'm having issues with the belt tracking off the pulleys.
Also got a new belt last weekend just need to disassemble things to get in to fit it which isn't a quick job
#303
Posted 27 January 2010 - 12:23 AM
#304
Posted 03 February 2010 - 12:00 AM
#305
Posted 22 May 2012 - 12:29 PM
Slipped to page 25, 2 Years & 3 months, a divorce and general lack of enthusiasm later i'm back onto getting the Twink on the road.
Started on the first turn of the key in over two years after I had remembered to switch the fuel pump on

A few minor things have changed in the two years ie redoing the coolant system to make things a bit more simple, new smaller lightweight battery and brackets to hold it etc and a load of parts collected ie rear Protech coilovers to match fronts, superfin drums, alloy hubs, handbrake quadrants to name a few and a few more plans once funds allow, with the above parts giving an indication of the direction it will be going in

Going to get it on the road first and with that in mind all the suspension was last week adjusted and corrected after the new front subframe, arms and hubs were installed a few years ago! I've trailered it to a relative garage who are going to check cam timing for me so then we should be good to go. Think I have a leaking rear brake cylinder but thats a minor thing and easy sorted. Once thats done its MOT time.
Ian
#306
Posted 22 May 2012 - 12:59 PM

Well at least your back on it and didn't decide to sell it in the meantime!
#307
Posted 23 May 2012 - 11:16 AM
Well at least your back on it and didn't decide to sell it in the meantime!
Never selling it, not after this much work
#308
Posted 23 May 2012 - 03:20 PM

#309
Posted 27 May 2012 - 12:02 PM
As I put earlier the front suspension needed all setting up but since fitting the new front subframe (Force racing Ti one) the drivers side wheel was touching the front of the arch when turning.
Seeing as the subframe came as a package with the engine and so came off another car I just fitted it as it was. The top, bottom and tie rods are all adjustable but I left the settings as they were.
When investigating the rubbing yesterday its apparent that the driver side top and bottom arms were set about 10mm longer than passenger side thus moving the wheel out on one side and so when turning the wheel/tyre was hitting the arch rather than turning in behind it (if that makes sense)
Easy i thought adjust the arms in the match the other side better then re set up the suspension. Only problem being to do that would mean the drive shaft would be too long.
From measuring I dont believe its a subframe or engine position within the subframe problem as measurements tie up with what they should be and the passenger side driveshaft fits properly
This leads me to think that its the KAD equal length driveshaft kit fitted thats the problem.
Didnt get time to remove the hub etc and investigate futher but have some spare drive shafts so looking into shortening one / checking the equal length driveshaft kit is fitted properly.
Also snapped a wheel stud in removing the wheel to measure stuff, but it appears it was already partly snapped so lucky it happened in the workshop not on the road.
#310
Posted 29 May 2012 - 07:16 AM
Just need to figure out which shaft to shorten and how, either at the ends and use the lathe to cut some more circlip grooves or do like the engine conversion chaps and cut in the middle and reweld and tube over
#311
Posted 29 May 2012 - 11:16 PM
Chris
#312
Posted 30 May 2012 - 07:15 AM
CheersHi. Loving the project, I've just read all about your mini journey, starting back in 2007 with the bike carbs. Took a while but was worth it. Anyway good luck getting it in the road mate. I'm hoping to get my mini on the road soon and reading about yours has given me some inspiration to do so. Keep up the good work.
Chris
#313
Posted 06 June 2012 - 07:02 PM
I removed the stop washer and the circlip and after a lot of measuring and measuring again was able to use the lathe to remove 10mm from the end of the drive shaft and then recreate the circlip groove and the stop washer locating groove/stop
Been up Scotland on the mtb since sunday but heading to garage tomorrow to get it all fitted and the suspension arms adjusted to suit.
Hopefully fingers crossed touch wood etc that will solve the problems
#314
Posted 07 June 2012 - 09:46 AM
Now you've done it once how do you fancy a second go at fixing mine too ??
Phil.
#315
Posted 07 June 2012 - 12:19 PM
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