6 replies to this topic

[wmager]

Hi

My mini's running well but slight problem... it's a Mini City with single centre binnacle. On filling it with petrol y'day, the fuel gauge needle has been stuck on 'e' and refuses to move... is there a quick fix for this problem?

[taffy1967]

First thing to check is that the spade connectors on the side of the fuel tank haven't come adrift. If they have refit them, but if they haven't try cleaning the metal contacts with a bit of emery cloth.

Also check all the fuses in the main 4 fuse box haven't blown. It's probably the 3rd one down (25amp) that you need to pay particular attention to because it also controls the "Heater Blower Motor, Windscreen Wipers & Washer Motor" as well as the Instruments.

If that makes no difference, then try shorting the fuel tank sender by inserting a paper clip into one of the spade connectors (not sure which one, probably the larger?) and with the ignition on, try shorting it against the body of the car and get someone to look inside you're car to see if the fuel gauge then reads full.

If the gauge reads full, but then stubbornly refuses to move again when the spade connectors are refitted, then you're float/wire inside the fuel tank is to blame and needs replacing.

If the gauge refuses to move whilst carrying out the test, then it's likely that the voltage regulator attached to the rear of the speedometer is to blame and needs replacing.

I don't know if the wiper motor park-switch shorting problem affects classic Smiths Instruments gauges, but I know that when the wipers stop parking themselves (don't know if that's happening in you're case though?), the little park-switch on the rear of the wiper motor can cause a short on the same circuit that controls the gauges and in the case of the later Nippon Seiki Mini gauges, the gauges can misread or fail.

Edited by taffy1967, 21 June 2007 - 02:51 PM.

[wmager]

Wow! A really comprehensive reply there. I'll look at the car now...

[dklawson]

Just to add some color codes to the above....

In the boot find the green/black wire on the sending unit. With the ignition on, ground that wire to a good clean spot on the car's chassis or run a jumper over to the (-) terminal on the battery. Then watch the fuel gauge to see if it goes to "F" or if it stays on "E". If it stays on "E" suspect the gauge or the voltage stabilizer that powers the gauge. The paperclip test described above will only work if the other wire on the sending unit (the black one) has a good ground/earth connection.

If the gauge works when you short the green/black wire, put that one back on the tank and make up a temporary jumper wire to go between the "other" spade lug on the tank and the earth point you used in the first test. If the gauge works during this second test, make a new ground wire for the sending unit to replace the original black one... or find out what's wrong with the existing wire's ground connection.

If your electric temperature gauge isn't working either, that's another good sign that the voltage stabilizer is not working.

[wmager]

Another thing to ask... how do I change my mini icon?

[wmager]

Fantastic - the fuel gauge is now fixed! All it was was that the spade connector had worked itself slightly loose...!

Thanks for the advice though, I'll keep it in mind if it goes wrong again later.

Billy

[taffy1967]

Another thing to ask... how do I change my mini icon?

You have to upload a suitably sized picture for you're avatar.

Glad it's sorted now and didn't cost you anything.