261 replies to this topic

[Gr4h4m]

I read when using an inlet manifold without the take off in a balance pipe, the megajolt site advises to run the VAC pipes to a box and then from the box to the megajolt MAP sensor to make sure the pressure is even??? Just an observation

[il-barba]

and this system can be used with metro engines? (A+) my guess is yes, but better ask


did i understand right that the megajolt is a separate "chip" that helps the edis system to work well? i like this megajolt system and am interested

*plans to convince his brother or father to scrap their fiesta*

[The Matt]

Yup, can be used on your Metro engine no problem.

[Ciaran]

Im just looking for advice from people who have done this before, im about to order the gear, do i have my order right?

MED pulley with 36 teeth machined, im going to grind off the surplus tooth.

Magnetti marelli crank sensor

Mega jolt v4 ECU with TPS sensor

Im getting the EDIS module and coil from a scrapper.

All the other bits ill do myself.

Now, ive a 286 cam, im using the TPS as i feel this way it will not have any issues with irregular pressure.

How does the TPS mount onto twin hs4 carbs?

Is there any tips to using this set up?? im getting the ECU off trigger wheels.

Thanks

[miniboo]

i would get MAp if i were you and then use a twin take off from each of the carbs into a plenum and then a signal tube back to the MJ

[Ciaran]

i would get MAp if i were you and then use a twin take off from each of the carbs into a plenum and then a signal tube back to the MJ

Is there a advantage to map over TPS??

I was going to go MAP, but it just seemed like it would be a pain in the arse as the cam, wont idle evenly so will not be accurate, TPS seems more straightforward!

[Ethel]

I don't think the cam will make that much difference. It may make any one cylinder more sensitive and "pulsey" but, if anything, I'd think 4 inlet valves with longer duration will make the manifold pressure more constant. Map will be much easier to install and directly measures what actually matters. You can even use it as a real time flow meter and carb balancer. You could also get your crank sensor from the scraps, depends what mounting bracket you use for it.

If MAP didn't work out, you could always convert the MJ to TPS.

[seb79]

I bought a kit : trigger disc and sensor mounting from Mini components. The sensor mounting is différent now. Matt fited right sensor mounting. Mine is different now, there is not enough clearance between fanbelt and sensor mounting arm. I sent mail to the shop who refuse to dispatch new sensor mounting. It's ok. Take note this kit cost 102 £. bye

[Kerrin]

Thought I would post up a some pics of my recently finished trigger wheel and pick-up mount.

The parts were sourced from Trigger Wheels.

I managed to get it a couple of degrees off exactly 90 but the wheel is adjustable on the pulley so i have adjusted it out.

[Major Burkenshaw]

Has anyone had experience with/ pictures of mounting a trigger wheel like this



to a pulley like this?

[Ethel]

Think you'd have to weld it on. I wonder if it would fit on the inside off the pulley, possibly even on the gunge deflector thingy?

by the way anyone who's running a V3 MJ the upgrade software is now on the Autosport site - beta version for the mo.

[Major Burkenshaw]

Think you'd have to weld it on. I wonder if it would fit on the inside off the pulley, possibly even on the gunge deflector thingy?

by the way anyone who's running a V3 MJ the upgrade software is now on the Autosport site - beta version for the mo.

I considered welding it on, but its going to be a right pain to get it spot on.

As for mounting it on the inside, i belive you have to modifiy the breather canister and bottom rad pipe, which I would like to avoid. Someone must have a lovely picture for me

[superted87]

Get the pully machined to fit on a lip inside the inner diameter of the ring. Slot it on and weld it in 3 or 4 places and it will be ace.

[Ethel]

That's not a bad tactic, Ted means machine the inner radius of the tooth wheel I think - you could even have it turned a bit narrower to create a locating lip. I don't think you'd have any issues with the breather or hose mounting the ring to the inside of the pulley if it will clear on the outside - timing "comb" would have to move though. Have a look in the Autosports site fitting guide there are a few photos that might give you some ideas. You could also look for an A+ damper pulley.

Centering the ring needn't be too hard - use a bit of timber with a hole in so you can clamp the ring to the pulley with a big nut 'n bolt through the centre. you can then spin the bolt and nudge the ring about until it runs true.

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what we need is someone to find a cheap U shaped steel pipe end cap or similar that the pulley bolt head fits inside, we could then get the centres drilled so it could be easily bolted and welded to a ring making a hat shaped bolt on pulley.

End cap and a reducing bush?

[miniboo]

what you have is a non damper pressed stell pulley. it will be very hard to fit that type of trigger wheel on. Normall with a damper pulley you machine the outer part of the pulley and then slip the wheel on and tack it on. i would look at getting a damper pulley and going from there.