261 replies to this topic

[Tomf]

I just found the file i had with cars to get the bits off...

EDIS parts
All these parts were sourced from a local scrap yard. When going to one make sure you take with you all the tools you'll need to remove the parts. Here's some tips:
• WD40 is very useful as helping you undo rusting bolts
• Always cut off wiring from parts and don't simply unplug them as you need the plugs
• Phone before hand to make sure they have the cars you're interested in.
• You'll need a socket set, Torx bits and wire cutters to remove the parts.

Coil pack
These can be sourced from most early '90s Fords including Escorts, Orions and Mondeos. I've chosen a later style coil pack from an L-reg Orion because they are easier to find HT leads for. They are attached to the gearbox side of the engine and held down with 4 bolts. You can also remove the holder which is attached to the engine with 3 Torx style bolts. I didn't remove the holder as I plan to mount the coil pack on a flat surface.

EDIS module
These again can be sourced from early Fords. I also took this from an L-reg Orion. It was located on the passenger side wing (RHD car) and secured using 2 screws.

VR sensor
These are also sourced from early '90s Fords. However, on Zetec engined Fords it's located on the exhaust side and points towards the flywheel about half way up the engine block. This makes it very difficult to remove as you have to remove the exhaust manifold to get to it. For this reason I chose to remove it from a Fiesta as it's in the same place but the exhaust it easier to reach around. It's held in by a single Torx bolt.

[alexcrosse]

which fiesta did you get it from? ( vr)

[Tomf]

I havent got the bits yet, thats a list i found on the web somewhere before...

[Ethel]

I don't think the type of crank sensor is too critical, mine came off a duratec engine. Some have 90 deg bends for the connector others 45 degs. Get the right EDIS, there's also one with a built in hose connection that you don't want. Piccies 'n info on Autosportlabs site along with the new version of MJ.

Edited by Ethel, 11 June 2008 - 11:58 AM.

[alexcrosse]

yep, v4 :D tis what im going for!

[atom]

What kind of modification needs to be made to these pre-made trigger packages? Is it just a matter of filing part down?

Yea, the empty fuel filter should be fine.

Just to point out, that KADs trigger wheel kit includes the sensor too. Both KADs kit and SC trigger wheel kit have clearance problems with the fan belt though!

[Jammy]

Just to save my trawling through pages and websites. What does V4 offer over V3?

[alexcrosse]

temp input

and its alot smaller

AND! it has an LED! lmao, they seem to make a big deal about an LED that is on when its on... lmao.

[Ethel]

http://www.autosport...opic.php?t=1718

The temp/auxilliary input is the major advantage plus a few other minor improvements, including the LED. It's not a total gimmick, it confirms the thing has power - fault finding, when the EDIS will run the engine without the 'jolt, could be a right pain.

You're supposed to be able to upgrade a V3 'jolt with a temperature input too. Megajolt 2 is also supposed to be in the pipeline.

[t@z]

think i'll waiting for the MJ 2 and upgrade my V3 as needed. to be honest i hate the new box looks chavy as hell much prefer the shed look of the v3

[LukeH]

temp input

and its alot smaller

AND! it has an LED! lmao, they seem to make a big deal about an LED that is on when its on... lmao.

It's got an RJ11 connection too. Was that on the old version or was it serial?

Luke.

[Ethel]

V3 has a DB9 serial connector, which is still how it connects to the PC (you can use a USB adapter). It's just a more compact socket, you'll need to buy the lead or make your own to connect it to a serial port of some description.

[pyromaniac_yeti]

would the system make fuel consumption any better on my standard 1293?

just thinking it might make life a little easier as i was planning on taking the engine up a few stages of tune after putting a stage one kit on it...if the timings more accurate, more power, better fuel consumption due to a more efficently running engine?

[The Matt]

I can't say that I've considered it from an economy point of view as my fuel consumption's pretty poor anyway.

But, I guess the fact that your timing could be made more accurate by using an aftermarket ECU conversion (not just Megajolt, there are other options) could help with economy as well as performance.

One of the main reasons I went for Megajolt over a tuned distributor was to do away with damp starting issues. Plus, when I built my engine I had no distributor or coil etc. (I'd sold an Aldon Yellow and decent coil I had ages before the engine was built).

I'd be interested to know some before and after performance and economy figures from people that have fitted Megajolt or similar to their engines (especially where the state of tune of the engine hasn't changed during MJ fitment).

[LukeH]

Does anyone have the configuration software for PDA's that they could send me?

The link on the Autosport Labs site is dead!

Cheers,

Luke.