12 replies to this topic

[Russ528]

This thread sounds similar, but I wanted to check.

Basically, using the Haynes manual terminology, I can see it leaking out from in between the differential (on the drivers side of the engine) and the inner offset spherical joint.

The Haynes manual talks about using a special tool to remove the joint from the differential - anyone had any success without the tool?

I'm guessing I can remove the driveshaft as a whole, complete with the inner joint doo-dah?

Is it just a case of picking the old seals out and pushing the new ones in?

[minimanclive]

The garage that changed the driveshaft seals on one of mine just used a crow bar to pop the pot joints out of the diff casing. I'd be very careful with that method as you could damage the diff side covers.

[Jordie]

Last time i did it.

I did one side with a ball joint splitter fork thing.

and the other side with a lump of wood and a big f'ing hammer.

You will need to undo the top balljoint and track rod on the hubs, so the shaft will move out of the way once you've knocked the joint out the diff housing.

[Russ528]

Ok.

So how do you reassemble it? Not quite sure I understand the Haynes description of using a jubilee clip and clouting it?!

[Dan]

You just push it in 'till it clicks into place. It's held on by a circlip inside it, around the outside of the shaft it is pushed onto that snaps into a groove inside when pushed fully home.

You do know to drain the oil first I hope!

[Russ528]

Haven't read that bit of the Haynes yet...

[Guess-Works.com]

If you're leaking oil, before you remove the pot, check the 'steadiness' of the joint by wobbling in the gearbox, any appreciable amount of movement means the bushes in the diff output casting are worn, as is likely the diff... changing the seal at this stage is basically too late. Likewise when the pot is off also check the axial movement of the output shaft....

Changing the seal is just a matter of picking out the old one, and drifting a new one in... give the inner surface of the diff output case a clean up before you put the new one in.

[Russ528]

I'll give stuff a wobble tomorrow then.

Cheers!

[Russ528]

The inner offset spherical joint bit nearest the gearbox just pops out with the aid of a crowbar or similar persuading tool, is that correct?

[Russ528]

Well, replaced the seal today. Not too bad a job. The biggest bugger was the driveshaft nut. 33mm socket on the end of a ma-hoo-sive breaker bar, and the thing still wouldn't budge.

1/2 ltr of penetrating oil, several clouts with a hammer and 10 mins of blowtoch action and it came off.

I wanted to replace the CV gaiter on the other side, but I couldn't....and I mean, really couldn't...remove the lower balljont from the lower arm.

The nut came off ok, but the joint simply would not budge for love nor money - despite heating, bashing, ball-joint sepator tools, etc. I then discovoered I'd knackered the thread with my over-enthusiastic bashing with the hammer....so that took a bit of tinkering to get the nut back to go on.

Gave up in the end.

I also couldn't shift the gear selector pin so I could replace that seal too. Sodding thing.

Edited by Russ528, 24 June 2007 - 08:19 PM.

[Ethel]

Well, replaced the seal today. Not too bad a job. The biggest bugger was the driveshaft nut. 33mm socket on the end of a ma-hoo-sive breaker bar, and the thing still wouldn't budge.

1/2 ltr of penetrating oil, several clouts with a hammer and 10 mins of blowtoch action and it came off.

I wanted to replace the CV gaiter on the other side, but I couldn't....and I mean, really couldn't...remove the lower balljont from the lower arm.

The nut came off ok, but the joint simply would not budge for love nor money - despite heating, bashing, ball-joint sepator tools, etc. I then discovoered I'd knackered the thread with my over-enthusiastic bashing with the hammer....so that took a bit of tinkering to get the nut back to go on.

Gave up in the end.

I also couldn't shift the gear selector pin so I could replace that seal too. Sodding thing.

[Ethel]

Well, replaced the seal today. Not too bad a job. The biggest bugger was the driveshaft nut. 33mm socket on the end of a ma-hoo-sive breaker bar, and the thing still wouldn't budge.

1/2 ltr of penetrating oil, several clouts with a hammer and 10 mins of blowtoch action and it came off.

I wanted to replace the CV gaiter on the other side, but I couldn't....and I mean, really couldn't...remove the lower balljont from the lower arm.

The nut came off ok, but the joint simply would not budge for love nor money - despite heating, bashing, ball-joint sepator tools, etc. I then discovoered I'd knackered the thread with my over-enthusiastic bashing with the hammer....so that took a bit of tinkering to get the nut back to go on.

Gave up in the end.

I also couldn't shift the gear selector pin so I could replace that seal too. Sodding thing.

Ah well if you'd asked we'd have told you to put a jack under the socket bar to loosen the drive flange nut


You need a drift of the right size to knock the roll pin out of the gear linkage - an appropriately sized old drill bit (flat end first) will do the trick.

Really need a scissor splitter to pop ball joints cleanly leave the nut on the end to protect the thread.

[Russ528]

Nah, trust me, it wouldn't have moved it. I was moving the car trying to loosen it, and that was with the handbrake yanked on as much as possible, the brake pedal forced into the bulkhead with a crowbar and chocks under all 4 wheels!

I tried using a drill bit as it happens, it wouldn't budge - and that was with the car in 4th gear, which relived any tension in the system.

What's this scissor splitter then mate?

Edited by Russ528, 25 June 2007 - 07:42 AM.