Jump to content


Photo

Hammerite vs red oxide & spray


  • Please log in to reply
8 replies to this topic

#1 Daze

Daze

    Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 213 posts
  • Location: Fareham
  • Local Club: P&SMOC

Posted 21 May 2007 - 09:58 PM

Hi guys,

Getting round to spraying the inside of my car and was wondering what is best to use? I am going for the race look and will not have any carpets, and I'd like the floor to look half decent. I've painted a small area already in red hammertie smooth paint, and although the colour is great, and the finish is nice and shiny, it seems tacky, and I can chip the paint off quite easily.

Its been left to set for 3 days, and its still like this. Is this normal for hammerite?

So, also then been thinking about sanding it all down again and using red oxide primer along with some kind of spray on top of that. Would that produce a better finish?

I'm not too bothered about it being spotless, but I don't want the paint chipping or flaking off. I'd like it rust-preventing and able to withstand knocks, bangs and stuff!

Thanks! :-

#2 ministudio2

ministudio2

    Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 188 posts
  • Local Club: none yet

Posted 21 May 2007 - 10:01 PM

is the hamerite on bare metal ? if not it may not be sticking to the old paint
if on bare metal should not chip that easy

#3 Retro_10s

Retro_10s

    Moderator

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,138 posts
  • Location: Bromsgrove

Posted 21 May 2007 - 10:02 PM

Sounds like you may have put it on in a cold enviroment, or the layers were too thick. Hammerite is best apllied sparingly and in many layers. I will also say however that Hammerite is not particualry tough stuff and tends to go very brittle.

Enamel paints are Very hard wearing and effortless to apply.

#4 mini25

mini25

    Speeding Along Now

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 359 posts

Posted 21 May 2007 - 10:07 PM

got names of people who make the enamel stuff, can only find enamel paint for modelling

#5 Retro_10s

Retro_10s

    Moderator

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,138 posts
  • Location: Bromsgrove

Posted 21 May 2007 - 10:10 PM

Avenue group paints. Based in slough. Rustoleum, Tekaloid, Tractol, Bright side.

#6 Daze

Daze

    Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 213 posts
  • Location: Fareham
  • Local Club: P&SMOC

Posted 21 May 2007 - 10:11 PM

Excellent, thanks for the replies.

Seems I've made a bit of a mistake, I did apply the hammerite a tad ... thick! :- lol

Yes, and same question as mini25. Where can I get any enamel paint? The only stuff I can find on eBay is for model stuff.

#7 Retro_10s

Retro_10s

    Moderator

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,138 posts
  • Location: Bromsgrove

Posted 21 May 2007 - 10:14 PM

sand it all down, and try again with the hammerite,.. applying thin layers. Did you put any primer down before hand? what kind of surface prep did you do if any?

#8 Daze

Daze

    Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 213 posts
  • Location: Fareham
  • Local Club: P&SMOC

Posted 22 May 2007 - 07:40 AM

Cool, I'll do that. First time around I sanded down a little, and I didn't use any primer. Shall I use primer this time? And if so, is there any special primer I should use?

Thanks! :-

#9 Retro_10s

Retro_10s

    Moderator

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,138 posts
  • Location: Bromsgrove

Posted 22 May 2007 - 08:34 AM

Right. Sand it down with a heavy grade paper... 420 or something like that,.. doesn't really matter at this stage as long as it's heavy grade and very rough... you only need to go to bare metal if there's rust patches.

Once this is done you must degrease the floor, use white spirit or Cellulose Thinners on a clean rag and wipe the surface down. allow the chemical to evaporate. Now spray on the primer... several light coats will be perfect... Read the instructions on the back for re-coat time,.. the stuff i use can be recoated in 10mins but has to be left to fully harden over night.

Once this stage is done and it's hardened off. you have Two choices.. Wet flat with 600grit paper, Or go straight to adding the Hammerite. It's up to you. But I'd spend a little time Flatting the surface down to give the Hammerite the perfect Key.

Then as said before... Put a layer of hammerite on.. Not too thick mind.. 2-3 thin coats will be perfect. you could even spray it on Using Hammerite Thinners (I'm sure I read somewhere that the Hammerite special thinners are just Celly thinners?)




1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users