13 replies to this topic

[Chrome_GT]

My engine upgrade has gone well with only a few headaches.

1) Remote shifter rear mount is different but that will be sorted.

2) I have a leak!! The only leak on the whole engine is coming from the timing cover oil seal. I had the cover off while it was out of the car - i should have replaced the seal! damn.

So- Can the timing cover be removed while the engine is in the car. It looks to me like there isn't enough room to slide the pulley out. Anyone done this?

3) Overheating problems - What can actually go wrong in a cooling system that would cause overheating?
All i can think of is
blocked radiator
block water jackets
wrong or stuffed thermostat
leaks
water pump
or other things like bad timing or lean fuel mixture

I'm tempted to just buy a new radiator from trademe, they are $200 but at least i know for sure that isn't the problem. Probably bout time i got one anyway.
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Edited by Chrome_GT, 21 May 2007 - 07:00 AM.

[Guess-Works.com]

Yes you can remove timing cover with engine in, but you'll need to remove the radiator and brackets from the engine ( also the engine mount )

As for cooling, there are loads of things which can affect running temperature, mixture, ignition timing,blockages, innefective radiator etc etc

What spec's the engine ?

[Chrome_GT]

Engine is a standard 1275 which has been bored out to 1312 if my measurements were correct. The block has been planed at some point to as the engine ID tag had been shaved off. I'm running a standard 1-3/4 carb which is factory fitment to the morris 1300s.

[Chrome_GT]

Ok Cooling issue has been sorted - hopefully. Myother post goes into detail - i basically messed up when removing my heater.

Anyways, this topic can still be used to discuss timing seal removal. Looks like i'll need to lift one side of the engine anyway

[Big_Adam]

Yes you can remove timing cover with engine in, but you'll need to remove the radiator and brackets from the engine ( also the engine mount )

....ermm......no. I never had to touch the engine mounts when I did the timing chain. Then again I might just be lucky.

[AlexM]

I replaced the timing chain on my mini, so it can be doing in the car, although its wasnt much fun. However your not going to have to do that, all you need to do is to removed the cover.

Radiator removal is fairly straightforward and thats the main part in the way, after you removed the fan make sure you put it back the right way round. The crank pulley nut is the same as those used for the tower bolts, so 34mm ish. Keeping the flywheel from turning when you remove this can be a pain, however i removed the starter motor and locked the flywheel using a special tool i managed to borrow.

I used a trolley jack and a piece of wood to support the gearbox when i removed the engine mount. But keep the jack in the same place otherwise you will find lining up the bolts when you come to put it back much harder. Make sure you use a genuine gasket and some sealant to keep it from leaking. And lubricate the oil seal lips.

Hope that helps.

[Chrome_GT]

cool, sounds like it's worth a shot. The leak is really bad. actually drips every couple seconds when running. There are dots on my street showing the path i drive each day haha.

[Big_Adam]

Keeping the flywheel from turning when you remove this can be a pain, however i removed the starter motor and locked the flywheel using a special tool i managed to borrow.

Old shell bearing works well for locking the wheel. Put a bit of string on it tho so it don't go and vanish down into the clutch.

[jonny d]

Good tip with the string, When you take out the bolts for timeing cover
photo each one as they are a different length and if they are put back
in a different place they can hold the timeing case off and cause the
leak you discribe.

[Chrome_GT]

Yeah I noticed the diff bolts when i had it off last time. Will definitely take note though now you mention it. I'm 100% confident the leak is coming out at the pulley oil seal.

[Matrix]

don't forget to fit the cover loose! DO NOT TIGHTEN UP THE BOLTS BEFORE THE BOTTOM PULLEY IS FITTED!
once the pulley is on do up as many of the bolts you can! you then have to remove the pullet again to get to the other bolt! If you tighten up the bolts before the pulley is on it will probable leak again! the seal needs to center on the pulley!

Edited by Matrix, 21 May 2007 - 09:29 AM.

[Chrome_GT]

don't forget to fit the cover loose! DO NOT TIGHTEN UP THE BOLTS BEFORE THE BOTTOM PULLEY IS FITTED!
once the pulley is on do up as many of the bolts you can! you then have to remove the pullet again to get to the other bolt! If you tighten up the bolts before the pulley is on it will probable leak again! the seal needs to center on the pulley!

Oh damn that might be whats wrong. I had the cover off, then tightended it before fitting the pully. I wonder if just loosening the screws and giving it a tap to free it up, then retightening will work. Cheers for the advice - that was crucial and i wouldn't have known any better

[Matrix]

don't forget to fit the cover loose! DO NOT TIGHTEN UP THE BOLTS BEFORE THE BOTTOM PULLEY IS FITTED!
once the pulley is on do up as many of the bolts you can! you then have to remove the pullet again to get to the other bolt! If you tighten up the bolts before the pulley is on it will probable leak again! the seal needs to center on the pulley!

Oh damn that might be whats wrong. I had the cover off, then tightended it before fitting the pully. I wonder if just loosening the screws and giving it a tap to free it up, then retightening will work. Cheers for the advice - that was crucial and i wouldn't have known any better

Your welcome
It happened to me on the first engine I ever rebuilt many years ago. It's the sort of thing you kinda remember and past on where possible We all learn from our or others mistakes. You could try the undo the bolts thing it might just work...good luck with it and I hope you get the easy fix

[Chrome_GT]

Fixed. I simply:

-removed radiator and fan,
-supported engine
-removed mount
-removed pulley
-removed timing cover
-removed seal from timing cover, it had hardened pretty bad which explains the leak due to slight misallignment
-repostion t cover with gasket
-position pulley to guide cover
-tighten accesible screws
-remove pulley to tighten no accessble screws
-then refit everything else

All good now. I think my mini almost has no leaks - unbelieveable

Edited by Chrome_GT, 24 June 2007 - 07:33 AM.