132 replies to this topic

[R1mini]

Hello,
I have one of these ZCars throttle pivot things for sale, there is a picture on my for sale thread, £15, I'm not sure how it could be used in your application, but at least it's a starting point

http://www.theminifo...x...48233&st=30

Cheers
David

Edited by R1mini, 28 June 2007 - 04:09 PM.

[R1mini]

Just a thought on the early Zcars before the pivot thing, all they did was redrill the hole for the cable a couple of inches down, let me have a look

From the ZCars website

Accelerator pedal needs modifying by drilling 2" below the original cable fastening point. This is because the original cable moves approximately 2" over its full travel and a motorcycle needs approximately 1" of cable travel. By drilling the pedal nearer to its pivot point, you would reduce the cable travel to the right amount. Obviously, you will need to re-drill the bulk head to enable you to put the cable through at the lower point.

Me again, you may want to check the actual ratio you need, you need to make sure you get full throttle without stressing the carbs by pulling against the stop, the pivot thing was introduced to remove the tight curve that was causing binding in the throttle cable in the mid engined fitments and it made sense at the same time to correct the ratio so you didn't need to modify the throttle pedal.

Cheers
David

Edited by R1mini, 28 June 2007 - 09:59 PM.

[supermotolee]

all i have done is bend the throttle pedal slightly so that at full throttle the pedal 'just' touches the floor but as you all probably know that makes the throttle quite sensitive lol i dont have much space in the engine bay though as my rad is that side of the engine bay so is the chain etc...

[R1mini]

That's why I thought the pivot thing couldn't easily be used in your application, thats why I posted the second option which was redrill the throttle pedal, to give the correct full travel and half the sensitivity of your current throttle. I can see by your pictures and darrens pictures that the only thing that may get in the way is that extra bar welded across between the towers


Cheers
David

[supermotolee]

sorry didn't read your post properly i might try that at a later date i haven't driven the car properly on the road yet so i'd like to see how it feels...

cheers lee

[markrally]

It has now become apparent since the race series has started that the rear brakes need to be improved some what to balance up the braking effort when the larger front brakes are fitted as it tends to lock the fronts before the rears as the disc size / pad area is a lot bigger.
Now on the race cars thay are fitting Wilwood 4 pots all round but that does not give a road legal handbrake unless you fit a seperate handbrake caliper aswell.
In the interests of keeping a parking brake for now i wanted to improve the rear braking efficiency and not break the bank at the same time!!.
I currently have some Tarox 6 pot calipers and 260mm discs on the front so the rear needs a bit of balancing up now.
I have researched the brake disc catalogue a bit and come up with a disc which will be a very tight fit but should jut go under a 13" wheel. Well the measurements say they do!!!

The original disc fitted to my car measured 218mm in diameter and the new one measures 251mm



Another problem i also noticed that the pads i removed were tapered in wear on both sides ??
As you can see from the disc pics, it has been wearing unevenly and only using half the disc area effectivlely.
I did attempt to straighten the calipr mounts up but it wasnt a good soloution.




Here is the original setup on the trailing arms





The brackets have a dogleg in them to be able to get the caliper in the right posistion and be able to weld them onto the arm instead of the hub/bearing housing and to be honest are a bit flimsy as they bend easy.

I have made up a thicker set of brackets from 6mm plate



I have also made some spacers to offset the caliper/bracket and some longer High tensile bolts



I had to machine the flanges a little as they were a little tight going over the flange but different brake disc manufacturers may vary.





New disc mounted on the hub



Heres the first trial fit of the bracket and pad carrier. Not bad measuring and cutting out as the pad is flush with the disc edge.





Thats all for now, i just wanted to trial fit everything before i cut the old caliper brackets off the hub.

Will update later in the week when i get the brackets welded on.


Cheers

[koss]

Looking good mark,
I must admit you don't really notice brake efficiency on normal road use. I noticed the uneven wear after first time out and cured it with a bit of marking blue and a slight bit of bending.

Have you got adjustable bias on that one?

[Gr4h4m]

I don't know Mark if you want real stopping power you should get some bad A$$ drums on the back....

[markrally]

Had chance to get in the garage again today so i have cut the old brackets off the hubs and fettle the new brackets to fit correctly ready for welding



Got the Mig fired up and stuck em on!!



The other side didnt take long to do and managed to get them both welded and painted and ready for assembly tomorrow after i have been shopping for some new brake pads (Ferodo DS2500) from demon tweeks.



More to folllow..........................


Cheers

Edited by markrally73, 02 July 2007 - 05:07 PM.

[markrally]

Got the hubs all built up and back on the car





Fitted the 8" wheels and clearance at the front is ok





but the handbrake mechanism was fouling the rear of the 8" wheel a little



but a little bend in the arm soon puts it right



Fitted the 7" wheels and clearance was tight at the front, Just about get my steel rule between the caliper and the wheel due to the wheel profile inside
but there was plenty of clearance on the back





I just need a new handbrake cable as the old one was a bit short in length when the arms were on full droop but as i have moved the calipers it wont reach properly now.
Hope to road test it at the weekend and will report back soon.

Cheers

[markrally]

I have been out today bedding the rear pads in a bit and trying out my in car camera mount



For some reason whan your flying along the camera shuts down and doesnt save the file!!!
It must be the vibration??


Cheers

Edited by markrally73, 07 July 2007 - 12:28 PM.

[crossed thread]

Hi Mark

When you work out how to keep the camera working let me know. I've put a camera in the zcars racer several times as you saw at Oulton and got great footage until the car leaves the pit lane and the revs just seem to stop it every time. I've tried rigid mounts, flexible mounts and I'm still working on it.

I have managed some footage which may get put on the website. Here's some of a wet warm up lap from Oulton.



Nice work on the brakes.

Chris

Edited by crossed thread, 07 July 2007 - 06:33 PM.

[markrally]

I may have sussed it out, gone into the camera settings and switched off the sleep and auto power off modes, had it running for 12 mins in the house without switchoff so it looks good!!!

Just need to try it in the car.


Cheers

[Joshmini]

Nice mini you got there mark

[markrally]

Nice mini you got there mark

Thanks, I got it in bits again now as im getting it ready for the racing next year.
Taking it back to zcars for some mods................
Will update it again soon


Cheers