28 replies to this topic

[Dan]

I'm with Dave, I would get a new genuine push rod. There has been all kinds of terror caused by people attempting to adjust the pushrod length which simply never needs to be done if all the other parts are good, all it does is hide the real problem.

Also if there really is trouble with the slave resetting try changing the hose, when it brakes down internally it can act as a one-way valve. I suspect the push rod is the problem though. Is the clutch release arm a standard part or something odd to match the push rod?

Edited by Dan, 14 March 2007 - 11:52 PM.

[whawes]

It consists of a rod with approx 20mm of thread on one end, which has a ball screwed onto it. The ball end goes inside the slave cylinder

that aint a standard mini push rod :s

all the ones i've seen are just a rod with the clevis hole where it connects to the arm - can measure the length for you if you like...

Would you mind? That would be really helpful as I'm almost certainly going to have to order a new one. Would be nice to know in advance if I'll need to machine it shorter!

[whawes]

Also if there really is trouble with the slave resetting try changing the hose, when it brakes down internally it can act as a one-way valve. I suspect the push rod is the problem though. Is the clutch release arm a standard part or something odd to match the push rod?

Flexi hose has been replaced with a braided Goodridge item so should be OK.

Rather than try to explain what everything looks like I thought I'd take some pictures. Here's the slave cylinder:



The inside of the slave cylinder:



The pushrod (managed to wind this in a couple of mm, hence slightly less than 10mm thread visible).:



Engine transplants - Clutch and flywheel assemblies on the Minispares site states:

Suffice to say that the Metro had a few weirdo fitments such as cable operation, an in-line ‘damper’ (some got fitted to Minis too - eek), and ‘top-hat’ plunger and rod bearing operation.

That sounds like the plunger/bearing assembly I removed and it's an A+ engine. Has to be a weirdo Metro pushrod I reckon.

The clutch release arm (looks very similar to this standard one to me):

Edited by whawes, 15 March 2007 - 09:45 AM.

[The Matt]

To be honest, I'd just replace the slave and fit a new pushrod. The release arm does look about right, I'm trying to think if mine was around that size as I had it apart last night.

I can measure it up tonight, as it's still off the car, I can also measure pushrod length easily if you want.

That pushrod in your picture is deffo not mini OE (at least, not that I have ever seen) but it could be a Metro jobby.

While I'm in here:
Update on my release plunger, it was a cheap aftermarket jobby (off eBay) which has now been replaced with an OE one. There is now a tiny amount of play (float) in comparison to the 2mm from the original one. Cheap stuff is NEVER the answer!

[The Matt]

Haaaang on a minute. Just noticed that the length of that pushrod is 110mmish. That seems massive, I would guess that mine is around half of that, but would have to double check.

Where is your slave mounted? Directly on top of the transfer case (horizontally) or on a bracket???

[whawes]

Haaaang on a minute. Just noticed that the length of that pushrod is 110mmish. That seems massive, I would guess that mine is around half of that, but would have to double check.

Where is your slave mounted? Directly on top of the transfer case (horizontally) or on a bracket???

It's directly on top of the housing, no bracket fitted. I think the reason for the long pushrod is the slave cylinder design. Mine doesn't have a spring/circlip etc inside it. It pretty much doesn't have anything inside it actually! Looking at the Haynes manual, the Mini pushrod would only go about 25% or so down the slave cylinder bore. This one goes about 75% of the way down the bore, which would probably account for the extra long pushrod.

Edited by whawes, 15 March 2007 - 10:27 AM.

[The Matt]

I think the answer is to simplify the system and go over to the known Mini setup.

pre-verto cylinder, pre-verto rod and double check that the release arm is right. That's a defeatist attitude though, it should be able to work correctly, as it must have done at one point.

[whawes]

I think the answer is to simplify the system and go over to the known Mini setup.

pre-verto cylinder, pre-verto rod and double check that the release arm is right. That's a defeatist attitude though, it should be able to work correctly, as it must have done at one point.

Yes, I could just machine the pushrod down a bit but I agree going with new Mini parts would be more sensible. I'll probably replace the release arm while I'm at it just to be on the safe side.

It did work before, but bear in mind I've already changed the weirdo throwout plunger assembly, diaphragm and thrust washer for Mini items. They are probably different enough to account for the clutch being 5-10mm out.

Thanks for the answers, I feel like I'm getting closer to a working car again

[GraemeC]

The brand new push rod I have in front of me is approx. 90mm from end to end. The eye also looks smaller than yours and is about 7mm diameter.

[GraemeC]

If you're goint to replace the push rod anyway, try cutting your existing one down to 90mm first and see if the problems are solved - at least that way you'll now if the slave is correct (mine doesn't have springs and things in it either).

[whawes]

Cut the existing rod down by approx 8mm last night and it has indeed solved the slipping problem.

Will go ahead and order the Mini parts in the not too distant future.

[The Matt]

Excellent stuff, glad it's fixed!

Soooo, does this mean that the adjustable pushrod in question was fitted instead of changing a worn clutch component (clutch plate, or backplate)?

[whawes]

Excellent stuff, glad it's fixed!

Soooo, does this mean that the adjustable pushrod in question was fitted instead of changing a worn clutch component (clutch plate, or backplate)?

No, the old clutch plate was barely worn to the point that I'll probably put it on eBay. It'll still be good for many thousand miles IMO. I've reused the backplate as that looked fine too.

I think the main cause of my problems was not realising soon enough that I had a Metro engine (hey, I'm new to this ) and consequently a lot of the clutch bits are Metro fitments. I like learning though, now I'll know next time

[Dan]

I would definitely replace that clutch release arm, the ball is very badly worn which is another common cause of clutch operation problems.