53 replies to this topic

[The Matt]

Soooo, when doing the timing have you used a DTI to dial it in (at 106 degrees or whatever the cam spec is). I guess as it's already been timed in by Morspeed you don't need to

[Guess-Works.com]

Argh ! he's sprayed the gearbox... lol.. and there I am getting the aluminum nice and clean...

Tim... Looks stunning... (the engine... not Tim)

[TimS]

The grind was measured at Morspeed and not even an offset key as needed in the end.

Its slowly coming together now, i have the timing cover on and crank pulley now, just taking a break to get my hands warm, and have a brew!

[The Matt]

The grind was measured at Morspeed and not even an offset key as needed in the end.

Its slowly coming together now, i have the timing cover on and crank pulley now, just taking a break to get my hands warm, and have a brew!

Yeah, it's looking great Tim!

[TimS]

Right after my cup of tea I set back to it..

First thing was to torque up the timing gears and bend up the new locking tab.


Then round to the other side of the engine to put the drop gears in-



A new clutch seal went in even though the last one seemed ok I want this engine to be reliable for the new owner-




Then on went the clutch and flywheel. I took the clutch out first of all to have a look at the backing plate and condition of the clutch, but as it has only done 3-4k miles it looks pretty new still




Turned around again to pop the timing cover on.
I first placed all of the nuts in loosely and then put the crank pulley on to centralize it all before torquing up.




Now its really coming together and actually looks like an engine woo!

Popped the dizzy in to make sure At 0 degrees the rotor arm points towards number 1 lead when number 1 cylinder is at TDC.



Just so that no one forgets which lead goes where I numbered them. Rembering that Number one cylinder is next to the fan.



Next was to put the clutch cover on and pop the starter motor in and make sure it meshed up correctly.






Finally still looking headless so I thought I had fix my monster



Added the last few bits after torquing down the head....

And shes just about DONE!!!!








The fan is also now on and the belt tightened up. All iv got to wait for now is the pot joints from Guessworks and she will be ready to go to her new owner

Edited by Flappyplasticbits, 21 March 2007 - 05:49 PM.

[The Matt]

Nice work Tim!

[TimS]

Cheers matt, it's a nice feeling to finally get there after a weeks worth of solid work

[The Matt]

Cheers matt, it's a nice feeling to finally get there after a weeks worth of solid work

Yeah deffo, I felt like that last week after rebuilding mine, it sure looks like you've put some effort into it. Well done, you deserver a beer now!!

[ed4ran]

Oww nice looking engine,
Doesnt the bottom alternator bracket go on the other way so that the alternator is on the sliding bit. so that the bracket doesnt push into the timing chain cover? and so you only have to loosen the bolt under the alternator and not the one even further back on the block (that way its easier)?

[minivanman]

Looks very smart!

PS
Number 3 and 4 plug leads are the wrong way round

[lewis]

ive really enjoyed reading this, nice and extensive

just to ask though whats the full spec? i will be receiving alot of parts soon and would like to use the richard longman head and spare block il get with the bits to build a 1330 and would like to see what you would recommend internals wise, cheers

[TimS]

Ha ha I spotted the leads on the wrong way, they are only resting at the moment, and the plugs arn't tightened up yet as they will need to come out to gain oil pressure on startup.

Ed- You have a good point there. The bracket has been that way round for the last 3 years year at least and I have never had any troubles with it so have never touched it. A good point though so will turn it around next time im back home

Block

• Block bored +60 thou at Morspeed.
• Block re honed to fit new piston rings. Bores ovality checked.
• All faces resurfaced.
• Chemically cleaned in hot acid dip.
• New corplugs added.
• High capacity oil pump.
• Worn Cam Bearing removed by Simon @ Morspeed and new one added.
• Painted in P.O red.
• Pistons are Hepolite 21251 +.60's with new piston rings from Minispares.
• 10.5:1 compression ratio.
• New Big End and Mains bearing shells. Crank journals and thrust washers measured.
• New crank oil seal added.
• New cam followers.
• Morspeed Phase 3
• Duplex timing gears.
• Lightened Verto Flywheel by Morpseed.
• Metro electronic ignition and distributor.
• New minispares gasket set and seals.

Head

• 12G940 Casting from SPi with water bypass hose.
• Modified by DTR Motorsport to stage 3 spec.
• Bronze valve guides.
• Head checked by Simion at Morspeed and larger inlet valves added to cope with increased displacement.
• 240lb Double valve springs to cope with increased lift of cam.
• Alloy inlet manifold.
• HIF44 carb with K&N filter.
• Payen BK450 head gasket set

Gearbox

• Rebuilt by Guessworks
• Central Oil Pick up pipe fitted.
• Diff removed and hardened diff pin fitted.
• Gear linkage seal kit used to prevent any leaks.

I think thats it, I may add a few things if theres anything I've missed.

[Dolts]

WOW! someones been watching the build dvd!
Very well done! an inspirational build!

[t@z]

awesome

[TimS]

WOW! someones been watching the build dvd!

Theres a build DVD?