
Rattle can the mini - STARTED!
#16
Posted 21 January 2007 - 03:34 PM
here.
Hope it goes well for you, I personally am spraying a few panels in 2K for the first time (does that make me a 2K virgin?) Also wait for Woody to advise, I am doing nothing till he responds to each question I post!! But that is good it allows each stage to fully harden
#17
Posted 21 January 2007 - 03:34 PM
#18
Posted 21 January 2007 - 03:51 PM

Once you've sanded and flatted down the car ready for painting You need to wipe down the car with a degreaser to get rid of of... well.... grease


White spirit is a very good de-greaser or use cellulose thinners. wait till they've evaporated fully until you start painting. This should only take 10 mins or so.
Edited by Retro_10s, 21 January 2007 - 03:52 PM.
#19
Posted 21 January 2007 - 03:52 PM
#20
Posted 21 January 2007 - 03:54 PM

So is it worth me carrying on with the door or should i strip it all down again and go from the start. Dont want anything to rust mind.
The neighbors are going to think im mad

#21
Posted 21 January 2007 - 03:57 PM
I very much doubt it's celly from a rattle can.
Sorry mate, but without a doubt I'd start again. You can't polish a turd, let alone a dusty one

#22
Posted 21 January 2007 - 04:06 PM
To be honest it doesn't look too bad, its a very nice smooth finish with very little imperfections. It's a little blotchy in places but i could see another coat or two covering it up.
the paint i use is called u-pol power can, looks pretty basic to me. Maybe if i carry on as i am with the door (which is currently the only bit im spraying) and then do the proper prep for the rest of the car?
opinions, i'll get a picture if that helps?
#23
Posted 21 January 2007 - 04:09 PM
** also, on the U-pol can, probably on the back of it,... it will say what kind of paint it is.. for instance... 1stage (1k), Two pack (2k).. etc etc... need to know, is it gloss?... or do you need a laquer too?
Edited by Retro_10s, 21 January 2007 - 04:19 PM.
#24
Posted 21 January 2007 - 04:19 PM
The hot water keeps the pressure up in the cans and the solvent starts to evaporate a little quicker on the panel.
#25
Posted 21 January 2007 - 04:27 PM
And i was told there was no need for primer as long as i rub the panal down loads with sand paper and put a few extra coats on? It's strange because i'm doing exactly (as far as i know) what the lady in the car panel repair shop said :S
And i'm trying to get college work done but its really not going to well

#26
Posted 21 January 2007 - 04:33 PM
A proper job takes time and loads of work.
#27
Posted 21 January 2007 - 04:39 PM
And i'm not doubting what you guys are saying, im sure you're 100% right im just holding onto loose threads here.
#28
Posted 21 January 2007 - 04:46 PM
they haven't told you to do anything wrong as such mate, they just didn't tell you to degrease and de-dust the car, which is a shame,... but not a problem really as it can be fixed.
This kind of re-spray, as Big-gav sais, isn't really a respray. The original paint is basically acting as a primer so that's ok, you don't need a primer. This is commonly called a 'blow over'.
#29
Posted 21 January 2007 - 04:53 PM


#30
Posted 21 January 2007 - 05:02 PM
Oh right, well that's exactly what i was wanting to use. I didn't want to have to bring down to bare metal or anything and i explained this to the lady in the shop, which is probably why she told me i could get away with just sanding it down.
I didn't just sand it down by the way, i gave 3 good rub overs with the grit-400 stuff and then did a thorough brush down with a towel to make sure there wasn't any loose paint on the surface.
I didn't mean to sound like i was just doing a quick job, i was trying to prep it to the best of my ability.
Edited by xchickyx, 21 January 2007 - 05:04 PM.
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users