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ball joint hell


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#1 JoeBodge

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Posted 16 January 2007 - 05:42 PM

right - started to replace the ball joints on the front hubs, followed what it said in the haynes - do a dry run first

on the one without the spring - even with 5 shims on its still really tight??
and the one with the spring - 2 shims is too losse and 3 is too tight - and it binds

and what torque do u do them up to? or doesnt it mater?

any ideas?

thanks

Edited by JoeBodge, 16 January 2007 - 05:44 PM.


#2 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 16 January 2007 - 06:42 PM

The shims are different thicknesses try using different combinations

Torque figure for cap is 75lbft

Also it's advised that new ball joints are bedded in using valve paster first to get rid of any high spots...

Remeber to build the bottom one without the spring first to get correct fitting...

#3 JoeBodge

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Posted 16 January 2007 - 06:48 PM

whats a valve paster?

right will go and try differnt combos.

thanks

JoeB

#4 Stoo

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Posted 16 January 2007 - 07:29 PM

valve grinding paste

#5 JoeBodge

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Posted 16 January 2007 - 08:00 PM

is there anything else i can use apart from valve grinding paste - as i dont hav any?
ive been at it an hour and a bit and i still cant get 1 done right!!
arrrggh!
doin my head in!

#6 minipip

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Posted 16 January 2007 - 08:08 PM

flog them and get some new ones? as in whole set up........ u cheep a** LOL HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHkidding dude. get some paste tomos man. give them a go over and try again, iv herd there just trial and error, and make u want to impale ur turqe rench in the garage wall.

#7 JoeBodge

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Posted 16 January 2007 - 08:16 PM

tell me bout it - they are new ball joints- dont hav the money to splash out on brand spankers setups u flashy git!! lol

where can i get it from unipart?

#8 syholl

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Posted 16 January 2007 - 09:11 PM

New ball joint kits (even genuine ones) hardly ever come with enough shims to actually do the job. You need to keep some of the old ones out of the previous ball joints and use them as well..

#9 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 16 January 2007 - 10:00 PM

Also, what was the problem with the old ones, did they just need re-shimming ?

#10 JoeBodge

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Posted 17 January 2007 - 11:20 AM

nowt - i dont think - there was only one on each hub - the others wernt on there wen i bought them - so decided to buy new ones

got sum valve grinding paste - what do i rub it on - the actual ball joint (the bit with the treaded bar on)?

#11 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 17 January 2007 - 11:37 AM

How I do it is with an electric drill, put the pin in the drill ( be careful no to crush the threads ) with the cap already on, smear valve paste on the dome of the pin and with the electric drill running move the cap around through it's full range of motion.

To avoid the crushing the threads issue I made myself a little adaptor whish is basically an old bolt with a shaft welded to it so I can screw that onto the end of the pin...

#12 Stoo

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Posted 17 January 2007 - 11:54 AM

It's C**p that they're sh!t out of the box. Nothing in the instructions about the wear surfaces being pants. Look 'mini specialists' If there's a need for anew product it's a sealed for life balljoint for a mini. You'd sell thousands and they's only cost the same as for other cars!

#13 TOMMO0302

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Posted 17 January 2007 - 12:06 PM

They are the only good thing about my metro hubs!! :gimme: And only £3/4!

#14 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 17 January 2007 - 12:31 PM

Dont disagree with the sealed unit's concept.... but the quality of new ball joints has always been suspect, especially with the non genuine made in the back and beyond ones... Genuines even though vastly more expensive have non enamered me to the quality of fit which is why I will try and use the old ones until they are completely down to the last shim...

#15 JoeBodge

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Posted 17 January 2007 - 01:23 PM

right - the top one is on fine :gimme: but the bottom one was fine without the spring on the dry run. but now ive put the spring in and grased it up - it has gone up really tight - is this right?

thanks




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