116 replies to this topic

[Sprocket]

The cam is the same, only that lobe for the cam phase sensor.

Is this a concern? do you want to use the cam sensor?

Was the MPi cam that much different in price?

If you are not using the sensor and the cam was the same price for either injection or non injection, i wouldnt worry about it to be honest.

If you dont use the sensor, Can I have it?????..........

[Bill USN-1]

My first mistake was ordering it early in the build and ordering it through MiniMania in the States.
Everything is twice as much there due to the high shipping cost from the UK.

It's really not that big of a concern now that I have a different system worked out for it and won't need the factory sensor..
I'm sure there is someone else that could put it to good use.
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My first plug I messed up and turned it to .625 when it should have been .675 so I need to make another just to be safe.


For tonight I just hooked up some lines and my inline electric pump. I then hooked it to my gauge and the throttle body just to test the pump and regulator.
All seems fine and no leaks at the regulator.
But the pressure was 19psi?
Seemed a little high to me.
What's the factory pressure supposed to be?

Edited by Bill USN-1, 18 January 2007 - 10:24 PM.

[Sprocket]

Check that some one hasn't put a washer under the spring of the regulator already.

to be honest i dont like that idea one bit. If it was that easy to get extra fuel through an injector, Rover could have saved thousands by just using one injector size through out the SPi range and fit a tuppence washer. If the manufacturer didn't do it, its for good reason.

Thats why you should consider a bigger injector, easily available on ebay, right now.

Washer = fudge factor

Otherwise make sure the regulator is clean.

[Bill USN-1]

But what is the factory pressure supposed to be?
My GM TBI's are 11-13psi.

This TB has been setting for a while and the regulator may be stiff.
When I got it, I inspected it and found the screws loose on the regulator. Then I figured out it had been disassembled and then thrown back together upside down.

So I put it all back together normally so i know there is no washer in there.
How avail are gasket sets for the TB up there? Do they include the regulator?

And referring to the pressure adjustment....it's no different then going to a VPR-vacuum pressure regulator. They vary the fuel pressure based on MAP/vacuum. Just the spring/washer will raise the pressure constantly. The stiffer spring is quite common in performance tuning the TBI system. I'm not saying bigger injectors aren't a good thing, just another way to get more fuel. And the injectors do have limits to how much pressure they can take.

[Sprocket]

The standard fuel pressure is 1 bar, so say 15psi, as for the tollerence, i cant get to the information, as my pc is f**ked and im using the wifes, lol.

Maybe the spring is stretched?? You have the flow and return correct? (i know you have).

A refferenced fuel regulator merely maintains the set fuel pressure accros the injector. It doesnt alter it.

I know where you are coming from with raising fuel pressure this way, but to be honest, in my eyes its not text book.

[Bill USN-1]

No telling. This was an Ebay or bulletin board purchase.

I think I need to find a new diaphram for the regulator.

Thanks for the info

My pump is capable of 95psi so I don't want to block off the return!!!

Edited by Bill USN-1, 19 January 2007 - 12:00 AM.

[Bill USN-1]

Decided I was tired of waiting for the postman for my bits needed to drop this in.
So I decided to just throw the carb on it so i could get a little break in time.
Then I can change the initial oil out of it and replace the shifter seal that I forgot to do when it was apart.

A little adjusting on the jet and she was purring like a lion ready to pounce.

I couldn't find my meat thermometer to stick in the radiator but the temp seems to hold good.

Have a listen. I ran it for about 15min but that's a lot to upload so you only get 16seconds worth.
The flashing you see is my timing light.

Break-in run

[Bill USN-1]

The postman brought my 7 gal tank from Minidave. It's in great shape.

I saw the dual tank thread on the tech forum and recommended they stick a left hand tan on the righthand side and just fill from inside the trunk/bonnet.

Well I started to lay things out for my fuel system.

Here's the stock tank installed.



I removed the tank and set them side by side so you can see the difference.
Note slight differnces in the fuel outlet and the vent.







Then I set the new tank in place of the old one.



And then I placed the left tank on the right side. It fit fine except for touching the speaker up top.
I will need to see if I can move it out a little more.



And there's still room for the battery and the spare tire!



I forgot to go to the auto parts store this morning so I can't run new hose yet.

Noticed the new tank doesn't appear to have the low fuel light connection on the sender. Guess I will need to extend the wire to the original sender.

But with dual tanks I think on a trip my arse will get numb before the tanks get low!!

Also need to decide on where to run the return line from the fuel injection.

[Bill USN-1]

One step closer...at least it's setting in there!

[Bungle]

And then I placed the left tank on the right side. It fit fine except for touching the speaker up top.
I will need to see if I can move it out a little more.

just put a 1/2 inch bit of mdf on the parcel shelf and mount the speakers on that

should lift the speakers up a bit but the shelf wont be any higher than the back seat

[Bill USN-1]

And then I placed the left tank on the right side. It fit fine except for touching the speaker up top.
I will need to see if I can move it out a little more.

just put a 1/2 inch bit of mdf on the parcel shelf and mount the speakers on that

should lift the speakers up a bit but the shelf wont be any higher than the back seat

Good tip!!
Funny part is ..there isn't even a radio in it. Hasn't been one since I bought it!

[Bill USN-1]

OK while I am still waiting on parts i decided to build me up some programs for my ECU.
I was on the hunt for some stock timing table data and about the best I came up with was the specs listed in the 123 distr guide.

So I input the data into an excel spead sheet and came up with 3 tables. a high, low and avg.

Here is the avg table.



And this is the 3D model for it.



I at least need a starting point so until I can get some hard specs on the SPI or MPI timing tables..this will have to do.

[Sprocket]

Wheres the rest of the table? it only goes to 3600 rpm and 44.5 degrees at 3600 might be a bit much.

[Bill USN-1]

The rest of the table is in the rest of the code!!
This is a GM ECU!!

The extended spark slope is 5° for each additional 1000rpm up to a programmable rpm limit you set for the timing to stop increasing.

Keep in mind that at what your engine will be operating on the other end of the table. 100 map/0 vac.(30°)

The higher timing values are under light loads. Cruise, better mileage.

There is also a PE-power enrichment mode for what that moves the AFR to 12.5:1 and adds a predetermined amount of timing for acceleration.

[ed4ran]

Dont you want about 10 at idle?
My car idles at about 35kpa with 100kpa being ambient pressure (engine not running), which will be what (or very close).