621 replies to this topic

[JetBLICK]

Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeellll, back home for easter hol's now, so in between work (as in a job - if u can call it that), sleeping and eating, i have a fair bit of time to work on the Mini

Made some real progress today so i thought i'd show....

Built up the rear subby - after much shouting and hitting the camber brackets with a big hammer.
 DSC01075__Medium_.JPG   71.72K   39 downloads

Gave underneath a first coat
 DSC01077__Medium_.JPG   43.03K   28 downloads

And covered my dashboard in expanding foam, i'll be carving a dash out of it as something to mould the fiberglass over, then it'll all have to be scraped back out, mmmmmm fun
 DSC01078__Medium_.JPG   77.58K   51 downloads

Er thats bout it. Did find some more rust as well, but the plan is to get the whole thing built up over easter, then drop it off at a local mini center for a week when im back at uni, then pick it up the next weekend - then i'll have it all ready for summer - if the engine lasts *touch wood*

[mad4mins]

And covered my dashboard in expanding foam, i'll be carving a dash out of it as something to mould the fiberglass over, then it'll all have to be scraped back out, mmmmmm fun
 DSC01078__Medium_.JPG   77.58K   51 downloads

what a great idea!! you should be able to get a perfect fitting dash that way!!

are you going to get it ready for the riv run?? im going to try and get the estate done in time..

keep us posted!!

[JetBLICK]

Quick little update, yesterday i spent alllllll day trying to fit the rear subby. It wasn't that it was hard in any sence, infact the bolt holes lined up near-as-dammit, perfect. The lesson to be learned tho, is if u've got adjustable rear camber brackets, put them on AFTER the subby mount bolts. Reason being you cant get the bottom bolt in because of the adjuster bit. So, after spending all day Tuesday putting the rear subby together, i had to take most of it apart yesterday

Other than that tho, i was very impressed with the quality of the non-gen rear subby, all the bolt hole lined up without a problem





also, i just got these, i saw em on ebay ages ago..... but missed the opertunity, this time i didn't hesitate, i wanted em, despite the price - £42 considering im skint, this decision is probly gonna come back to bite me in the arse, but sod it, they look the tits!

[Retro_10s]

nice bra.

Edited by Retro_10s, 29 March 2007 - 05:54 PM.

[mad4mins]

nice bra.

you mean contact lenses.. lol

looking good chief...gonna be back in it after easter??

[JetBLICK]

ur just jelous because u wish you had such awsomness on ur car

[Pie]

I think worcestershire is FULL of awesomeness;

Minis (mine, rogers, Dan websters, oh and yours )
MK1 escorts
Keithys SJ

[JetBLICK]

Thought i'd update you peeps on the progress, things could be better at the moment, i've had a few issues...

- Whilst one of my top arms is immaculate (bearing-wise), the other was shot. The pin was seized to a bearing, and the bearing to the arm. I smashed the rollers out after advice from the local mini center and then spent another hour or so, trying to crack the outer race to get it out. Its not going well, and i now need a new chisel because i've rounded the corners on mine

Any more ideas on getting it out? i've tried heating, freezing, drifts, chizel and even tried cutting it out with a multi tool????

- Also had issues trying to get the metal collets from the bottom arm bushes off one of the the pins, again its not happenin...

- I'm a bit annoyed also that my 'lowered' spax dampers, i dont think, are lowered? because when i lowered the car to my desired height (only on the back so far) then jacked the car up, the hi-lo's fall out This scares me because what if they fall out over a bridge, or going over a pot hole????????

- Finally i'm still waiting on a few deliveries.... some bits off Smudger, bits to fix said top arm problem from minispares, all the wires to re-wire the whole car from autosparks, my mudflaps and plastic sheeting from plastics for performance and my fiberglass kit of a shop on ebay. Because of the holiday now nothing will arrive till next week, so more delays

- If it wasnt for the damn top arm and bottom arm pin , i could have had the car back on its wheels buy this weekend, then i might have had a chance at getting the car back on the road by the end of easter hols, buts thats just not going to happen now.

yea.... so.... things aint so rosey at the moment. All thats getting me through it the thought that once this is done, thats finally it, no more messing about. After this is done its all about the engine The initial plans where laid thick into my head long ago, its gotta be based on a 1071, bored out to 73.5, still undecided on the head, but its gotta be either 7 or 8 port. The whole thing is going to be well worked, and i may consider billet rods and crank, but that depends entirely on whether i can be patient enough to save some money for em. The aim is lots of revs and a short final drive. And two of my mates have just got a Clio 182 and a Civic type R, so i gotta be able to keep up with them, childish i know, but its gotta be done

[CanadianMiniFan]

how could you bore out a 1071...they're sooooo rare.....don't do it! what about your intense 998 rebuild...still looks good with progress.

[JetBLICK]

998's are all good, but i didn't do it for the same reasons as pie's 998. I did it as a quick, cheap way to get a nice revvy motor and have a little experiment with, it was never the intention to keep it. I've always been a fan of revvy motors rather than torquey ones plus i've always been the kind of person who likes to do things a bit differently - as you may be able to tell by know - hense why i'm not a fan of the ever popular 1380 - everyone's got one, and i don't want to be everyone

U'll find most cooper S blocks have been bored or lined at some point in their life by now, and if they havent, expect to pay silly money. I watched one go on ebay for £600 i think!! Its the same with the cranks, a crank thats on a 20thou regrind will go for £100 if that, but an unground crank will go for nearer £350!!

Its all these damn autograss boys, stealing all the good stuff so they can thrash it around a field for a few laps - personally i dont get the apeal, but, each to their own.....

Plus the bigger the bores, the bigger the bore to stroke ratio, so frees up more revs

Edited by JetBLICK, 07 April 2007 - 09:44 PM.

[minivanman]

For the top arm, I got a brand new one from minisport - £30 plus the shaft which is about a tenner. For that price its not worth farting about trying to recon a knackered one.

[supermotolee]

R1 motor in the front?

[Pie]

Stick with the funky-thou Dan. You know it makes sence, small bore racers are coming back.

[JetBLICK]

R1 motor in the front?

if i was gonna do an R1 conversion i wouldn't bother putting it in the front

Stick with the funky-thou Dan. You know it makes sence, small bore racers are coming back.

Naaaaaar. a screaming 1.2-ish (once its bored) will suit me better. But of course, its gotta be painted BMC green, and even with a crossflow head, you gotta keep the '850' badged rocker cover hehe. Cant wait :D

[mad4mins]

keep going dude everyone goes through tough bits.!

its going to look the dogs doodars when you finished!!

are we going to see it back next week for the new term!??