621 replies to this topic

[mini_kel]

Can`t wait to see tomorrows post!!

[Pie]

Dan....im jealous......................but then i know how much money you have poured into this, and how much the 1071 cost you in the first place

If id have put that kinda money into an engine, my slark head would be on a fancy lil thou

[Deathrow]

He's left us on a cliff hanger!

How could you?!

Looking forward to your next update sir.

[alexcrosse]

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO SWAN NECK MANIFOLD!! dont do it, youve put so much into the engine! You gonna get the same induction as an SU, no power gains. 5" or 6" steel! talk to maniflow, or any company n they will agree im sure. I got warned off a swan neck.

Also, the weber is very very benifical to u, because they deliver alot of power at high revs. Its worth chopping a hole in the bulkhead n putting a 5" on man, or you may aswell SU it.

I am getting very excited about ur project though, looks absolutely brilliant. Cant wait to see it on the road, when u wreckon its gonna start up.

[Pie]

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO SWAN NECK MANIFOLD!! dont do it, youve put so much into the engine! You gonna get the same induction as an SU, no power gains. 5" or 6" steel! talk to maniflow, or any company n they will agree im sure. I got warned off a swan neck.

Also, the weber is very very benifical to u, because they deliver alot of power at high revs. Its worth chopping a hole in the bulkhead n putting a 5" on man, or you may aswell SU it.

I am getting very excited about ur project though, looks absolutely brilliant. Cant wait to see it on the road, when u wreckon its gonna start up.

I agree with you in one aspect but disagree on another.

Agree with swanneck fanimolds being awful, but disagree where you say use a 5". A 3" fanimold is more than fine and you dont have to cut the bulkhead. If it was good enough for the works team then im sure its good enough for dan.

[wolfys_mini]

just because it was good enough for them, doesnt mean that now it has been decided/proven that 5 inch is better

[Jammy]

A 3" fanimold is more than fine and you dont have to cut the bulkhead. If it was good enough for the works team then im sure its good enough for dan.

Vizard disagrees.

[Bungle]

i'm sure the girls will tell you longer the better

[miniboo]

vizard pretty much says the longer the better!!!

i think he only tested upto 7 inches though

[Retro_10s]

7" is toiny.


wa wa waaaaa.

sorry for the spam dude.

Edited by Retro_10s, 03 January 2008 - 04:08 PM.

[JetBLICK]

Cuttin the bulkhead aint an issue, i done that anyway. The manifold isnt a swan neck either... this is a swan neck...



Mine manifold is about 3.5/4 inches long. Reason i'm sticking with it for now is a) i've got it, b) it's ported and matched the the head and c) if it was on the engine before and working fine i see no reason for changing it.

If, when i go to the rollers they say i could see a big power hike with a bigger one then i'll consider it, but for now this one will be fine


Soz to leave you on a 'cliffhanger' as you put it, been bit busy, and having trouble getting the car to fire up, i blame the freeeeeezing weather and the stupidly complicated weber. I know people rave about them, and i'm sure it'll be good once set up, but frankly, unless absolutely necessary for all out power... they are rubbish. Gimme SU's any day!

It eventually fired up today, thanks to oli who came over to lend a hand, but it wont idle without throttle, tho again i imagine this is down to the weather. Retired for the day now because its too cold, may have another crack at it tomorrow, if i get the chance to go get more fuel. Rather annoyingly its back to uni on sat, so then the only chance i get to work is on weekends.

Its not far off tho, it'll get there soon

[alexcrosse]

but you can see the flow on the manifold isnt good. Im not argueing or n e thing man! nice project n all. But ive done alot of research into them rather than just reading one bloke (vizzards) oppinion. Talking to maniflow, a 7" manifold is better for kind of race cars, on a track, at a constant 8000rpm, a 6" and 5" will give you more power lower down, so u can actually accelerate up to 8000rpm repetitively! rather than miglias whom get to 6500 - 8000 and stay there.

Im sure the reason the works drivers used swan necks and smaller like yours is because they were not allowd to modify the bulkhead.

PS, my weber fires my engine every time with no fair. The procedure for starting a car with a weber on is to (obviously have a good battery n all that carp) but: pump the throttle quickly 3 times, this will prime the engine, then turn it over. DO NOT USE THE COLD START. its not even worth connecting to your choke lever. All it will do is wet up number one plug and you will be trying to start a car on 3 cylinders til the fuel burns off. If it doesnt start after 3 pumps, repeat.

As i said before too, your not going to get ANYMORE power than an SU with that manifold, i had that told to me by a guy at minispares, minisport, SMMC, maniflow and br.

5-6" steel

What weber is it? 40 or 45? what chokes you got in it? mines way out, need to order parts from avonbar, but still runs, n spins wheels in 1st 2nd n 3rd
Get a youtube video of the car! bet it sounds good lol.


(if this all looks naggy or anything dont mean to be! lol, just passing on research matey)

[JetBLICK]

It'll be fiiiiiine. I think you gotta take what people say about stuff like this with a pinch of salt. Yes, engine companies do know more than us, but when they say any shorter than 5" will be poo, what they mean is, any shorter than 5" wont be as good. The reason webers are so reputable is more because of the way they deliver fuel more than anything else... that thing that makes them so complicated is what makes them so good too.

This engine has ran all its tuned life with this manifold, i don't see any valid reason to change it just yet. Its a cast steel oselli (or maniflow... cant remember now) manifold. I should have taken a pic, but when you take the carb off and with the valves out you can see how they have been ported together, s'all cushtey, dont worry

I'll try that pumping thing, i'm aware of the pump jets, we where trying actually to open the throttle slowly so as not to flood the engine.

Its a 45 by the way, duno what any of the jets are. But i cant see to be honest how they can be too far out, the original engine spec was exactly the same, only thing i've changed is the 1.5 forged rockers for rollers, and the 286 scatter for a SW10. The SW10 should make a tad more power, but it shouldn't really be so far off that the car is this hard to start.

[Pie]

So wehn are the 10s going on dan

As or your fanimold, i its Oselli then bonus, best fanimolds you can get, but maniflow are just as good, and their new stainless fanimolds are among the best.

[alexcrosse]

should start fine with that mate! just screw the idle in. Pumping wont flood the engine because it only adds tiny amounts of fuel (hence having to pump 3 times) But its how people have been starting pintos, xflows, a series, BDA's and everything running webers for ever. Should help u out a bit. Cold start is a major stay away job though.

Cant wait to hear it, get a bloody video up! =p lol. and lots more pics