654 replies to this topic

[Alburglar]

Yeah that is pretty daft!

[Alburglar]

Buggered about for ages today and it is definately the ECU that doesn't like the voltage drop when the electric reverse is on, because when I wired it to a stand alone battery and hit reverse the engine kept going - trouble is it still kills everthing else electrical. I tried the power cap in between the electric reverse and the battery and it is not up to the job. Therefore I'm going to have to use a completely seperate battery for the reverse, but I ran out of time today. I will let you know how I get on.

Prior to this I took it for another test run and then tried to get the idle to match the manual 1100 rpm for a 2000 carb R1, but it kept cutting out, even when it's warm. So I then set the idle by ear and it idled perfectly - but the rev counter on the Acewell digi dash said 2200rpm exactly double what it should be. Because the rev counter is 12v, is it possible that the rpm output from the ECU is 6v (because bikes are aren't they?). And if my idiotic ramblings are correct, is there a resistor or something that could re-jig how my digi dash interprets the rpm signal?

Edited by Alburglar, 03 December 2011 - 08:30 PM.

[Alburglar]

I also checked to se if the carbs balanced and they were close. 1 was 2.5 and the other 3 were at 2, but I can't remeber what the scale was!
Anyway I've had a dig around and found that r1 carbs should be 22cm/Hg at 1100rpm.

[Alburglar]

Prior to this I took it for another test run and then tried to get the idle to match the manual 1100 rpm for a 2000 carb R1, but it kept cutting out, even when it's warm. So I then set the idle by ear and it idled perfectly - but the rev counter on the Acewell digi dash said 2200rpm exactly double what it should be. Because the rev counter is 12v, is it possible that the rpm output from the ECU is 6v (because bikes are aren't they?). And if my idiotic ramblings are correct, is there a resistor or something that could re-jig how my digi dash interprets the rpm signal?

Just checked the acewell digi dash instructions - apparently I can change the way it reads rpm. You can set a value of 'engine rotations per signal' and one of the values is 0.5 so I can sort the rpm read out nice and easily.

[cptkirk]

Good to hear your sorting through the niggles, any idea of completion date or is it an as and when?

[Alburglar]

I think my first predicted finish date was about 4 years ago so I'm happy with as and when.

[james_k]

This will be my first post and after having spent most of the afternoon reading your entire build all I can say is your an inspiration!! It goes to show how much time and effort has gone into it. It's funny that you aimed to get it done in 3 weeks and it's 4 years later it's not done. But if a job is worth doing, it's worth doing right! Good on ya mate and keep up the good work as I'll be checking back for updates

[Alburglar]

Thanks James I'm glad you enjoyed it.
I have found theminiforum a brilliant resource from day one of mini ownership. I have tried to include every single bit of putting this together in order to help others out and to keep a record of it for future reference.

[koss]

Hi Al,
I can remember going through the reverse problem too. I think i posted some info about it some time ago.
My r1 was injected and I had three large caps (quite a bit smaller than yours), fuel pump and injection / ignition / ecu map.
All the caps were fitted with large diodes to keep the current flow inwards.
This helped a lot but still not the answer. If you rev the blazes out of it while reversing no problems apart from the noise and looking like a kn0b.
It all came down to the alternator/generator as this is directly connected to the battery and engine mechanicly, Its like putting a dead short on a DC motor while its spinning then it stops dead. Similar to electric rc cars for braking.

Three phase alternator/generator same aplies. It will stop just like an emergency stop switch on a lathe.

The answer would be a large gearing reduction on the reverse motor (slower reverse) drawing maybe 1/4 less amps. After all, car engines draw up to 600 amps just to start their engines. never mind moving the whole car from a standing start.

All in all two batts with a split charge system Is the answer.

Sorry for the long post on your build and my poor spelling etc.
But nice to see it moving on, keep up the good work.

[Alburglar]

Cheers koss.
And yes, the plan is a seperate battery and I was thinking that I could run another 12 v feed back from the rectifier to the extra battery and see if that works?

[cptkirk]

Cheers koss.
And yes, the plan is a seperate battery and I was thinking that I could run another 12 v feed back from the rectifier to the extra battery and see if that works?

04:33am - when do you sleep???

[koss]

http://bigjimny.com/...=49:accessories

The output from the rectifier will still pull the engine down when using the second batt/reverse batt.
Have a look at the above link, think as the winch motor as your reverse and ignore the solar chargers etc.
you need to charge both batts when not using reverse then isolate them for reverse.
It might be possible to isolate with a big swich when reverse is required.
Good luck.

[cptkirk]

Maybe you could use a suitably sized 'normally closed' relay to cut the feed from the alternator to the 2nd battery that is switched to open when you engage the reversing activation/button - I hope that makes sense....

Edited by cptkirk, 08 December 2011 - 04:19 PM.

[rustandoil]

All this talk of reverse problems is very interesting, i gave up trying to make my reverse motor stay running i was getting the reverse motor "dropping out" resulting in a on-off-on-off situation, that was with no load just the starter motor interestingly i cant remember it making a difference to the engine
I am using a Geartronics gear indicator to provide me with neutral signal to control my reverse circuit, i think there may be a problem lurking there..............

You would have thought this would all be well sorted by Z-Cars by now ?

[2000lukey]

I think the only way to have a reliable reverse set up is to use the quaife QBA3R as used in the radical race cars, its got a limited slip automatic torque bias diff with simple strong internals, the only down side is the extra modification to get it to fit (and price), I have used it before and would recommend it, it has changeable ratios all in stock with quaife to get the gearing spot on, i would use it if I were to do a bike z, but I am car engined not bike!