654 replies to this topic

[Alburglar]

Clutch housing is all back together now with a new push rod, when it finally turned up.
I have fitted slave cylinder with a slightly different return spring setup than before. Looks much nicer this way.

just got to fit rubber dirt guard,
also welded bracket for return springs to adjustable arm. just need to paint it now.

[SAILINON]

Great project! Reading from page 35 on you somewhat remind me of myself. I've easily snapped as many bolt heads off as I've correctly torqued.

Keep of the great work, the project looks awesome.

[Ratbag]

Great to see things moving along again Ali, be good to catch up some time soon!

[Tomf]

So you got this done yet mate or is that just a silly question to ask lol.

[Alburglar]

Oh ye of little faith thomas.

Edited by Alburglar, 10 April 2011 - 04:36 PM.

[Alburglar]

Yes it starts and runs, or rather it started and ran, and dumped all it's on on the floor. It is mainly an issue with my diy sandwhich plate not seating correctly. It needs a slight fettle and is with a man with a lathe as we speak.

It wouldn't start for ages, we tried new plugs and all the usual stuff, but forgot to drain the carb bowls. Probably 6 year old fuel in them at least. Drained them and it started first time!

[Alburglar]

This shows where the sandwich plate was fouling. Still haven't got it back from machine shop yet to retry it.

Next I drilled the filter plate and fitted the filter

[Alburglar]

Then I started to look at where I could mount my scottoiler HCR (automatic chain luber with high capacity reservoir). All the bulkhead space has been accounted for, plus I wanted it to be easy to see the oil level and acces had to be good for re-filling it.
In the end I opted to mount it on to the perspex window.

I had to modify it slightly in order for the refill tube to stick out the back of it.


It will look something like this, when I've removed the protective film from the windows I made.

[Alburglar]

I have also put tape around the edges of the lower bulkhead parts and fitted them. I then went round the back and poly sealed them in from behind. The tape means that the poly seal wont stick to the bulkhead pieces, only to the inside of the wing. Therefore they will be a snug fit and that will help noise,smell and water ingress - but the bulkhead will still be removeable.
-iwill take some pics.

The inside ledge of my removeable inner arches are looking good. The just need one more layer of fibreglass tissue.

[Alburglar]

I have also sorted out my wheel alignment, good enough for the time being.
I still have a couple of wiring gremlins before I book an MOT, but thing are looking good.
Needs a new indicator steering column switch because the horn blasts when main beam is on! Need to add a relay to reverse button so that it will only work in neutral. Brake light and hazards/indicators have a wire crossed at some point?
Also does anyone know if a mini hydraulic brake light switch is a negative switch - I'm assuming it is.

Edited by Alburglar, 19 April 2011 - 04:43 PM.

[Alburglar]

Finished my inner arch ledges and added some foam to the back of them to make a good seal. I've lost track of how many hours hve gone into these?!

My grand plan is that the whole car can be stripped to component parts trackside. Nothing that needs to be removed is sealed or riveted.

Got my sandwich plate back with clearance made so that it bolts up to the engine nice, without fouling on the OE oil filter coupling. I originally did this with a dremel to test fit, then sent it to get finished on a lathe. I had the extension coupling cut down to suit also.

but I forgot to get the Oe filter coupling cut down by the same amount (4mm). I couldn't wait so I did it carefully with a hacksaw.

Fitted it all up and ran it but only for a minute as it was getting late. No oil leaks apparent so fingers crossed it's a good fix. Oil pressure was at 40psi with the choke out which is probably right. I don't know what the revs were. I didn't look, or perhaps I didn't notice because the rev guage wasn't working. - another thing to look at!
The only guidelines I have for r1 oil pressure is
6psi at idle (1000rpm)
30psi at 3000rpm
60psi at 6000rpm

then it should relieve pressure after that, so I assume it should stay at 60?

[Alburglar]

When I was bleeding the clutch the other day I noticed it wasn't returning as promptly as I'd like. So A spring upgrade was in order. This time it's 2 mini slave return springs. They are 90mm long and I initially thought I couldn't use them, but I've managed to fit them in. It's still not 100% but it might be ok. We'll see when it's in use.


Next I found a faultless place to put the scottoiler dispenser. The scottoiler has to spray onto the rear sprocket, just above the chain and centrifugal force pushes the oil into the chain. I mounted the dispenser onto the lower bearing bolt, so when I adjust the chain tension it will not affect the position of the dispenser.


The last trial fitting of the arches has gone well too. Just need to get the right size bolts for final fitment.


Just the wiring to sort now!
-and a final brake bleed as they are *******.
- and remove some rad water to replace with anti freeze, because it is just water at the moment.
-and final fitment of the upper bulkhead
-and final fitment of the exhaust part of the bulkhead (mainly making it water tight).

Edited by Alburglar, 21 April 2011 - 07:48 PM.

[Ethel]

The brake light switch has 2 terminals that are isolated from the switches body,the earth is from the brake lights.

[Alburglar]

The brake light switch has 2 terminals that are isolated from the switches body,the earth is from the brake lights.

Yes I know that i do not need to provide a seperate earth for the switch. The Question is: Is it a negative switch or a positive switch?

So Does the brake light switch complete the circuit to the brakelights through it's positive wire or negative (EARTH) wire?

I will have to go through my haynes manual again.

[cptkirk]

Ethel was right, just kinda worded 'differently' - below is a screen capture from the Hanyes manual for an injection model, I checked the pre-injection models and they're similar. The earth is made once the current has travelled through the bulb. The bulb housing is the earth.

21 = brake switch
31 & 70 = brake lights

Edited by cptkirk, 26 April 2011 - 01:46 PM.