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Monty the Rwd R1 engined tarmac eating Minus


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#526 Alburglar

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Posted 14 July 2009 - 10:36 AM

Slow progress at the moment due to other commiments but did have done about 1day and ahalfs work since on boring jobs. Will put some pics up of bits and pieces soon.

Defo taking beamer - polybushing it asap!

#527 tangoedmini

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Posted 14 July 2009 - 12:50 PM

Cool project mate, where did you get your diff from??

#528 Alburglar

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Posted 14 July 2009 - 09:38 PM

diff was bought from zcars -it's a sierra diff modified with gripper diff by dr engineering

#529 Alburglar

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Posted 10 April 2010 - 05:31 PM

Hi folk's! Project is back on the go after renovating my house over the winter.

So've been splitting my spare time helping my friend prep a track mk2 golf for a trip to the ring in May and started the minus work again.

Bleeding brakes and clutch has been a nightmare!!!! Clutch would bleed fine with no leaks but use the pedal 3 times and a pool of liquid would appear on the floor, no where near anything to do with the clutch! Turns out that the little olive inside the banjo fitting on braided line was not seated correctly and wouldn't leak, but when under pressure it would squirt to the floor under the px side wheel.
With that sorted I noticed that the clutch slaved moved loads on the standard zcars mount, so I've made a little bracket to tie it in to the rear engine mount.

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It's stopped most of the movement but still not good enough. I've gopt a good idea of what to do next. I'm trying to not have to take the powder coating off the cage and weld in supports for the slave mount, if possible.

Brakes have been thwarted by leaky Willwood brake bias unions which have been solved with PTFE tape on the threads. Which I'm happy with because my friend bought a new one recently and they now come with ptfe tape round the threads!
Also had a leaky banjo bolt which eventually got overtightened and snapped where the hole goes through.
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Luckily there was enough meat left on the bolt so I cut a slot in it and took it out with a screw driver.
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Will reblead next job.

#530 Alburglar

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Posted 10 April 2010 - 05:34 PM

I finished my wiring jobs. I've ditched my old hi level brake light for a nice new one from rally design.
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Put my number plate lights in now I've finished glassing the number plate enclosure.
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#531 THE STIG

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Posted 10 April 2010 - 06:51 PM

good to see you back working on the car >_<

#532 Alburglar

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Posted 01 June 2010 - 10:16 PM

Made a brace bar today to stop the clutch slave cylinder flexing.

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Pretty happy with the results, just needs a bit more paint

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#533 Alburglar

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Posted 02 June 2010 - 05:08 PM

My first attempt at stainless welding today, with a MIG and it went ok. I've extended the exhaust manifold by 40mm so the back box exits out the hole in the valance, rather than in the engine bay.

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#534 Alburglar

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Posted 08 July 2010 - 01:42 PM

finish the upper bulkhead and it's anchor nuts on the frame.
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#535 Alburglar

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Posted 08 July 2010 - 01:49 PM

But as usual. one step forward, two steps back. Quenching (heating up then putting in cold water to soften them) the copper washer's had cured the clutch slave cylinder's leaking issue, so I got my misses on the pedal and tried to bleed it. I heard three load twangs, then the slave gave up and exploded, and the clutch arm on the gearbox was stuck. It took a ratchet strap and a two crow bars to get the housing off, so I knew something must be buggered.
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three of the teeth on the clutch push rod have been chewed off. It's because the mini clutch slave has nothing to stop it travelling too far, but I have an idea..

Edited by Alburglar, 08 July 2010 - 01:51 PM.


#536 cptkirk

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Posted 08 July 2010 - 03:34 PM

finish the upper bulkhead and it's anchor nuts on the frame.
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Intricate - Like it!!!

Sh!tter about the the clutch.

#537 Alburglar

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Posted 09 July 2010 - 03:43 PM

Cheers.

slave is pretty much sorted now. Despite the little 4 40 tap snapping and having to chemical metal a nut to the stub to get it out!
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so now I can pack out the internal part of the slave with washers to exactly as far as I want it to move to. Then this scews in place over it all to lock it all in place. Now the slave can't push out too far. The slave push rod is going to be made adjustable too and heavy return springs added (on z cars chris's advice). Just waiting for new clutch puch rod etc to turn up and I can sling it all together to see if it works.

Edited by Alburglar, 09 July 2010 - 03:53 PM.


#538 delboyeire

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Posted 09 July 2010 - 04:08 PM

great project :teehee: :-

#539 Alburglar

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Posted 10 July 2010 - 08:00 PM

Ta.
Made a spacer out of the old slave cylinder part, instead of using washers. Added two strong carb return springs, just waiting for the mod to make the push rod adjustable, then it's done.
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#540 Alburglar

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Posted 19 July 2010 - 04:10 PM

ARGGH! Annoying day today.
Went to put clutch back together and my little torque wrench has packed in without me realising. This meant that when I went to torque up the spring retainer bolts, one snapped. *illegitimate person*! So, I had to make up a locking tool to lock the centre up, to get the clutch out.
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Once the centre was out the remaing bolt, luckily was not tight and I could turn it with a screw driver, plus the thread was fine. phew. But my locking tool just isn't man enough to hold whilst doing the 70nm clutch nut. So i've ordered the proper tool for once, instead of ratchet strapping the back wheel to the front to lock it. But now I'm a bolt down, I've got one that is slighlty too long and needs a few spacers.
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Can anyone fore-see a problem with this? The OE bolts obviously aren't hi-tensile, in fact quite the opposite.




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